When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
wow, that is a bummer I used to work for an engine builder machine shop and 5 grand and 5 years is a little questionable, the d3 heads hurt you alot on the comp, try goin with some dove ones, and if it was 10-1 comp you would look at the gas and have rubber spinning, is this guy even credible?
I am in the process of getting somewhere, the engine really strange as far as the ignition timing. I think that the harmonic and dial are off from TDC judging by the amount of timing it will run with. I have the builder working on it as we speak, starting with the cam timing. It doesn't have headers but will soon and that will help some if it is a true performance build but I'm not convinced it is. The builder is trying to fix it and he is reputable, all of the John Deere dealers take their engines to them and I've seen some pretty impressive small block chevys come out of there, but I have since heard a lot of bad but I have heard a lot of bad about everyone's machine work in Western Co since I started this, so I am not sure what to do other than keep ragging this guy. Thanks for the replys.
My stock 92 efi smog motor has the same cranking pressure, 145 psi. And it's kind of a dog. You do need headers, but even with stock manifolds a big block can make some power. Keep on that builder and good luck.
the builder said the vacuum was making some strange readings. thought maybe the cam but he'd never seen this exact situation before. Changed the cam timing 4* to see if that made a difference. then if it is still goofy, then he will degree the cam. He thinks it could be in the exhaust but I don't see how that is since it runs bad with manifolds or with full exhaust.
take a little time and go to performance automotive warehouse web site. now they send their stuff un assembled but with a build dvd you could put it together yourself.. they have a 552 cu in that is going for about 4 grand with shipping.. pick the cam for what you want it to do and go!!!i'm not in western colorado and i would be showing that builder the business end of my chemicle projectile throwing device...good luck!!
Well thanks for the input. We put a vacuum guage on it and as it revvs up it LOSES vacuum. We don't know why this is, but maybe it is a bad cam, not sure but going to keep looking.
Warhorse, try dropping the exhaust, excessive back pressure will do that. I used to see it from collapsed exhaust pipes, clogged catalytic converters, mufflers the baffles had come out of and blocked the outlet, you get the idea. If that doesn't show anything make sure you are getting centrifugal advance in your distributor. Ford dual advance (centrifugal and vacuum) are famous for the advance cam (top part) siezing to the shaft (bottom part).
Last edited by 85lebaront2; Aug 10, 2010 at 12:58 PM.
Reason: Additional information added.
the distributor is new, I put a "RECURVE SPRING KIT" in one distributor and that advanced the timing so far that I had to retard the static timing to get to reason at driving Rpm. That is a bad idea to install that. Also, taking the exhaust off at the manifolds makes it run the same. No difference. Thanks for the answers, we will get to the bottom of this some day. It has been in the making for 6 years.
Hey Warhorse.....Has anyone suggested to you to check the cam and lifters for excess wear??? Who did the break in on the cam??? Was it your builder or you??? Was the proper cam break in procedure followed??? Was the proper oil additive used during break in??? I would bet the cam has at least one worn lobe or excessive wear on the lifters. If the proper break in procedure wasn't followed with a good break in additive then you'll wipe a lobe right off the cam. I could be wrong here but i think it may also be the reason for your strange vacuum problems. Just a thought.
Hey Warhorse.....Has anyone suggested to you to check the cam and lifters for excess wear??? Who did the break in on the cam??? Was it your builder or you??? Was the proper cam break in procedure followed??? Was the proper oil additive used during break in??? I would bet the cam has at least one worn lobe or excessive wear on the lifters. If the proper break in procedure wasn't followed with a good break in additive then you'll wipe a lobe right off the cam. I could be wrong here but i think it may also be the reason for your strange vacuum problems. Just a thought.
Tell him to scr** off, give you your money back plus about $500 for the 5 years of your time/interest, and go buy you a stroker from Cars by Carl, which is in CO. I've heard nothing but great reviews on his stuff. He might be able to give some advice if you stay with this way too.
I see you are still alive and kicking on your engine here. Nice to see an update.
It has d3ve-a2a heads and the pistons, well, noone knows whats in there for that. They are supposed to be 10.5:1 but the part # on the build sheet is for a 8:1 piston.
That is a big difference I will say. Even at sea level. Camshaft could be wrong to a 'degree' too, how do you say that...no pun intended? Anyways get the part number off the camshaft and chase down some specs, if you had mentioned cam info in your initial thread, I suppose you don't need to. Its been awhile.
From what I remember on 460ford.com, D3VE heads are your basic low compression smog heads. I built a couple of 460s, one for me, used D0VE heads on a 74 short block. 9.7:1 compression ratio, the other, was a 79 short block, D3VE heads I think, but used early pistons giving 9.5:1 cr. The first was in my 71 Colony Park and with a 2.69:1 gear and 235-75R15 tires, would burn rubber for well over 300 feet, the second was installed in a 1986 F350 wrecker. My son caught the owner doing burnouts with it. He had a problem destroying clutches since Ford, in their infinate wisdom, used a 10.5" clutch on it. I will be buiding an EFI engine of my own later this year probably.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.