Hi, all. Great forum. My first post here.

I'm finally changing the plugs/wires/gaskets on my 96 B2300. It's got 160k, and these are (as far as I know) at least 100k old.

I've taken off the intake manifold and air cleaner stuff, and can get to the plugs nicely now. I'll clean the upper manifold and throttle body while I have them off.

Anyone have any ideas what else I might do while I have this access? The timing belt needs it too...am I any closer having these parts off?

Also, I want to clean out the lower intake manifold. It's pretty gunky down there. I assume I should remove that before I attempt to clean it.

Any thoughts?

Matt in Utah.

 

i am not sure of the set up of this engine but on my 2.5 the pcv valve is a lot easier to get to with the upper intake manifold taken off. the pcv hose can also become dirty and clogged. if it is and you want to replace instead of clean it, it may be a special hose rated for high temperature. this was the case with the hoses connecting to DPFS when i replaced it so maybe all egr hoses are this type.

its up to you but at 160k in addition to the timing belt it might be a good idea to replace the water pump, tensioner, pulleys, thermostat, change coolant, and look at the radiator and heater hoses.

 

Thanks. That's a great idea. I may just do those as well. If I remove the timing belt, I'll certainly do the tensioner and check on the pulleys. Changing the coolant and hoses is another no brainer after all these miles.

Does the pump start leaking on these trucks, or they seize up or something equally catastrophic. Mine is the 2.3L I4 by the way.

 

Just a report.

Success on the first stage of this maintenance. Plugs/Wires have been replaced. Throttle body and intake were removed in the process, and cleaned up nicely. I left one of the square plastic plugs off when reassembling (I assume those go to the coils, or something), so the engine ran quite rough. Found it after a minute of searching, and whammy...engine runs way better than before. Feels like I have 20 more HP under there. No more sluggishness in the low rpms.

I also bought parts for front brakes, and that's nearly finished. Will jump on the belts/hoses/coolant next as has been suggested. Nice to get some of these projects done. 160k on there now...I'm hoping to make it to 250, at least. I noticed the shocks and springs are ridiculously rusty. Might have to check those out soon.

 

I hope you used autolite or motorcraft plugs and wires. check your rear leafsprings hangers and shcakles they should be rusty.........let me know and i will post a write up about them if they need replacing

 

I did use motocraft gear.

They're rusty alright... the whole underside is a rustfest. If you do post a write-up, I'd love to read it. While I had my front wheels off I cringed looking at my shocks and springs. They need to be replaced a few years ago... It's on the list.

 

In many cases Removing the Bed Helps in the aiding of repairs. ie. Fuel pump replacement, hanger and shackle replacement, etc

1)the fuel cap filler is held on with 3 bolts 7mm?

2)there is an electrical disconnect at the bumper for the taillights.

3)The bed is held on with 6 torx 55 bolts. 2 of the bolts closest to the cab are longer than the other 4. I recommend buying 2 torx 55 sockets in case one breaks
4 or 5 of the bolts can be accessed from underneath and should be hit with a rust penetrator
I recommend at least one of the following, impact wrench, 1/2 ratchet with a pipe or a 1/2 breaker bar. it takes some muscle to remove the bolts.

4)The bed can be slid down for a fuel pump replacement or removed my 2 Men. a cherry picker.

5) In the event you are removing the bed for a fuel pump replacement. MAKE SURE YOU DISCONNECT THE NEG BATTERY TERMINAL.

6) You should change your fuel filter hile the bed is off. tool required or equivalent 5/16 FF performance tool W83130

7) I replaced my bolts with regular hex bolts. Ford wanted $16 a bolt. I ordered my online for less than $3 each. the 2 cloest to the cab are 12m x 1.75 x 120mm and the other 4 are 12m x 1.75 x 100mm

8) I changed the rear hangers and shackles on my rear leaf springs. I used Dorman 722-010 and 722-001. all 4 pieces were less than $100. They come in a kit with everything you need, bolts etc. I used a grinder to grind the heads of the bolts off. this only took about 10 minutes a hanger. I had a dewault grinder and bought 2 metal grinding wheels at the home depot. I only used 1 they were about $3. I had a hard time getting the bushing out of the eye of the spring. I finally decided to use my drill and a good 1/4 bit. I drilled the rubber out that was in the middle of the bushing. the rest just slide out. I greased up the new bushing and temporarily put the bolt in and hammered it in the eye. You don't want to torque the bolts that attach the spring to the shackle until the truck is on the ground.

 

Great writeup, thanks! I'll climb under there tonight and have a look around. What does it look like when the hangers/shackles break? Are your springs essentially lose...no suspension in the back? I'm very surprised nothing has broken back there yet... I've grossly overloaded my truck a few times. Didn't get far...realized the weight was waaaay to much, and employed a trailer instead. But still...I've always wondered if I did any damage back there. I think I had over 2000lbs in there once.

 

Just a follow up. I did get the plugs done, and it's running great. Of course, I'm now reading about replace the timing belt and step #1 says "Remove spark plugs". I blew it. Ha!

 

Matt,
If you did do the coolant & hoses earlier as you stated, you can drain the coolant and remove the hoses (AGAIN) now that you've finally decided to change that tired timing belt. Doesn't the manual says change it every 70K ? ......sounds like you've been lucky it hasn't left you stranded somewhere - yet....
In fact, I'd suggest you also remove the radiator, as doing so will provide you with much more room to get in there to change that timing belt.

What does the indicator arrow on your belt tensioner tell you - is it still good?
When was the fuel filter last changed?
Just keep clicking them off, one at a time, and eventually you'll get them done......

Good Luck!

BarnieTrk

 

Another tip if you do the shocks. The bottom of the front shock mounts to a stud on the radius arm and on the rear the top is a stud off a bracket on the frame. If rusty like you say they can be a bear to get off. Soak them good with your favorite penetrant for several days, many seem to use PB Blaster, I prefer Kroil. If you can safely use heat go for it. The concern is making sure the nut is turning, because if you haven't broke the seize up, instead of turning the nut you can twist the stud and it will break off. I speak from experience.

 

I recently changed the wires and plugs on my 110,000 mile 2.5 2000 Ranger and what a difference it made,no more pinging and clanging at high speed anymore,,,,but what a job it was!!! I didn't want to change those darn gaskets on the intake so I went through the wheel well splash guard instead ,still wasn't easy but I got it done finally,now time for that dreaded timing belt,I think everytime I go out it will break.

 

If you've pulled the intake off, I would replace all the intake gaskets, and I would replace all the vacuum hoses that seem to be deteriorating.

 

Woa...through the wheel well? Can you explain that a bit more...I'm having a hard time picturing it.

Yes, my timing belt is well overdue. It's happening over the next few weeks, for sure. Do yours too....we'll break our trucks at the same time.

Any one have any tips-from-experience on setting the timing properly? From my experience in other cars, it's impossible, until it isn't. Scratched my head doing my Toyota avalon for a few hours, until I looked at the right diagram. Then it was perfectly clear and took 5 minutes.

 

If you are doing the timing belt and it runs the water pump on your engine, you might as well add that to your list. I won't use their filters but I agree with their slogan: pay me now or pay me later.