2000 Navigator drag while brakeing
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2000 Navigator drag while brakeing
Hello Guys
I have about 140k miles on my Nav and my isssue with this is whenever i brake hard downhill or when exiting from highway (going uphill to exit) and my speed drop from 75 to 20. Sometimes I get kind of drag/grinding while i push the brack pedal hard (if i brake softly then i don't feel it) and i don't get any vibration through my brake pedal or steering. While back i also had, an issue and that was when i turn on corner or go in circle, it made the grinding so i took it to local transfercase rebuilt place and the guy took a test drive. He said that since this truck is in AAWD mood in normal driving, there is component inside the transfer which transfer power back in forth between wheels if needed and it's worn out. I am not sure if my tranfer case is the issue or wheel hub or transmission mount or something else. I am not certain about the both problem mention above are two seprate problem or the same or they both have some to do with transfer case.
Any help or comment will be really appriciated.
Thanks in Advance.......
Jamal
I have about 140k miles on my Nav and my isssue with this is whenever i brake hard downhill or when exiting from highway (going uphill to exit) and my speed drop from 75 to 20. Sometimes I get kind of drag/grinding while i push the brack pedal hard (if i brake softly then i don't feel it) and i don't get any vibration through my brake pedal or steering. While back i also had, an issue and that was when i turn on corner or go in circle, it made the grinding so i took it to local transfercase rebuilt place and the guy took a test drive. He said that since this truck is in AAWD mood in normal driving, there is component inside the transfer which transfer power back in forth between wheels if needed and it's worn out. I am not sure if my tranfer case is the issue or wheel hub or transmission mount or something else. I am not certain about the both problem mention above are two seprate problem or the same or they both have some to do with transfer case.
Any help or comment will be really appriciated.
Thanks in Advance.......
Jamal
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I don't get the problem, you're supposed to get drag when applying the brakes.
FYI - He's talking about the front clutch in the transfer case.
FYI - He's talking about the front clutch in the transfer case.
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Thanks for your reply. i understand the brake drag/griding but the one i am talking about i can feel the drag/griding inside. Also, once in a while when i take turn, it seems to me like the truck wheel is jamming up. Then what i do is park the vehicle, turn the switch from Aawd to 4x4 Hi and turn back to Aawd and the problem go away. The light will come on and off when i engage/disengage into 4x4. However couple of time in the past, my 4x4 hi light came on briefly wile i was driving straight. May be motor on trasfercase or someelse......?
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With the A4WD system you need to have a matched set of tires on the vehicle and do scheduled tire rotations. The reason is if the tires (front to rear) are different diameters, then the front and rear axles rotate at different speeds. The A4WD system is sensitive enough to detect this difference and think it's rear wheel slip, so it engages the front axle for added traction. Having unmatched tires is one of the biggest issues with A4WD systems engaging needlessly.
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Not likely since in your case where you don't have a 2H position on your selector switch, the transfer case is always in 4WD. It's the front clutch that locks in the front driveshaft when you switch out of A4WD. For your setup, the shift motor only changes the transfer case from 4WDH to 4WDL.
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Let say if this is the case, from cost/repair perspective is it beter to replace the t-case wth used one, take it to t-case shop and have them fix whatever is worn out ? any advice on this?
Thanks
Thanks
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Moose, from some of the posts I've read here you can disable the A4WD function of your truck by pulling fuse #104 with no ill effects and I believe that if you do that and try to get the same symptoms they may not appear. If they do not appear I would say you have a t/case problem and if they are still there you will have to look elsewhere in your diagnostics.
Let us know the results.
Let us know the results.
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First of all thank you guys
Here is an update for you guys on this....
1- I did pull out the fuse 104 and i am suprised how smooth its runs now...
2- I drove around couple of hours yesterday and tried to get the same symptoms and i got the drag/whinning couple of times..
I am going to drive around more today and will try to turn in tight circle to further look into this. I am thinking also look into brakes as well, they are not completly gone yet but i belive its time to change.....
Thanks you guys
Here is an update for you guys on this....
1- I did pull out the fuse 104 and i am suprised how smooth its runs now...
2- I drove around couple of hours yesterday and tried to get the same symptoms and i got the drag/whinning couple of times..
I am going to drive around more today and will try to turn in tight circle to further look into this. I am thinking also look into brakes as well, they are not completly gone yet but i belive its time to change.....
Thanks you guys
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The automatic 4-wheel drive A4WD system is a full time 4-wheel drive system with an electronic shift 4x4 system that allows the operator to choose between three different 4x4 modes.
In A4WD, the generic electronic module (GEM) varies the torque split between front and rear drivelines by controlling the transfer case clutch. The transfer case clutch allows for slight speed differences between the front and rear driveshafts which normally occurs when negotiating a corner on dry pavement. When the rear wheels are overpowered, the GEM detects this slip condition, and the duty cycle to the transfer case clutch is increased until the speed difference between driveshafts is reduced".
This is something i have noticed and which is mention in 2nd paragaprh, when i hit the floor on highway entrance, i can feel that my transfe case transfering torque to front wheen and it make slight grinding/whinning noise and after i catch up the speed the grinding/whinning go away. So is it normal noise everyone gets or it just me......
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From: Chesapeake, Va.
I believe the clutch assembly in your t/case needs replacing and if you are a DIYer make sure you replace the chain at the same time. It's not too hard and the parts are not too expensive. You should have nearly no noise when your system is operating properly.
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I belive i found the cause of griding issue, its brake pad. Inner side ront brake pad are preety much worn out to the bones, outside one have some beef on them. I knew that i need to change to brake pad sometime in the future based on my linclon dealer tech checklist. According to check list, they still show it's green which tell me they enver check em.... i got some to do this comin weekend for myself.
Thanks again
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Also, look closely at the achor plates that the calipers bolt to. I've had rust build up under the stainless anti-rattle clips. The swollen rust raised the stainless clip up off the achor plate a smidgen, causing the inner pads to stick, which caused the inside of the rotor to go away while the outer side of the rotor looked fine.
I ended up putting new rotors, pads, and calipers on. The new calipers came with brandy new achor plates and stainless steel anti-rattle clips. (You need all the braking power you can get to slow that big Intech V-8 down
)And while your putting the new calipers on, be sure and flush out all the old brake fluid first. Your ABS will thank you later on.