rusted floors
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Junior User
Joined: Jul 2010
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rusted floors
On my 1965 f100 the floor pans are badly rusted and I have located replacements. My question is, under the seat has some rust that needs to be repaired as well. Are these replacement panels included with floor pans?(im pretty sure they arent). If not, how do i go about either fixing them or does anyone know where i could purchase this particular part?
Thanks in advance for any comments.
Adam
Thanks in advance for any comments.
Adam
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Junior User
Joined: Jul 2010
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it would help to put the link in, sorry
61 62 63 64 65 66 Ford Truck Floor Pan: eBay Motors (item 180530001109 end time Jul-13-10 19:07:21 PDT)
61 62 63 64 65 66 Ford Truck Floor Pan: eBay Motors (item 180530001109 end time Jul-13-10 19:07:21 PDT)
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Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 6,060
Likes: 7
From: Glendale Arizona
Here is a complete 71 floor and firewall i installed in my crew cab.
Finished
It was easier to replace the entire floor than cut and patch. The rear section and floor braces will repair to the rise for the gas tank mounting area.
Garbz
Finished
It was easier to replace the entire floor than cut and patch. The rear section and floor braces will repair to the rise for the gas tank mounting area.
Garbz
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Junior User
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Looks likeva big job but as you said, a much more manageable one than cutting and patching. Are the entire floorboards in decent shape hard to find? I can pick this one up on eBay for less than 300 including shipping. Should I grab it?
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Somehow my truck has power steering already but no power brakes. What's the best way to locate these things locally? I used to open the yellow pages and start calling junk yards. The sheer amount of yards in georgia makes it an extremely arduous task. I am however, up for the task but am just curious if anyone knows of a better (easier) way.
Elder User
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 581
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From: Montana
if it were me i would look seriously for a new cab before starting the project. it will save you a conciderable amount of time when you take in the time to cut and weld new material. i have done both and the cab swap was much easier as i had it finished before i tore down the driver. this is coming from just my point of view as i am not that good of a welder so i spent a lot of time grinding and rewelding as in some places i did not take out enough stock and the metal was thin and all it would do is melt away. and the list goes on. dont know where you are located but they are fairly abundant in Mont. and most are useable with no welding. just my 2 cents though. dutch
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I just found a couple cabs locally, don't know what kind of shape they're in but they are local no less. If I decide to do the cab replacement route, how difficult a process is it? How difficultnis it to detach it from the front hood and fenders? How much if any welding does it require ?Sorry for the questions, I have never done anything like a cab replacement before.
Cargo Master
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 3,014
Likes: 91
From: Concord, CA
Here is a whole cab with a starting bid of 0.99 cents and no reserve. Only catch is you need to pick up in Texas. Anyone in Texas looking?
1965 1966 ford f100 custom cab only clean : eBay Motors (item 330451324365 end time Jul-20-10 15:19:51 PDT)
1965 1966 ford f100 custom cab only clean : eBay Motors (item 330451324365 end time Jul-20-10 15:19:51 PDT)
Elder User
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 581
Likes: 1
From: Montana
depending on how deep you are going into a rebuild or a restore or just a daily driver. if all you're gonna do is drive it, it wll be fairly simple to do. no welding. Remove hood, detach fenders from cab,may be a bit easier if you remove the box so you have working room. detach anything that is attached to the engine compartment, ie. throttle cable, brake line, fuel line,stearing wheel. four bolts to remove the cab from the frame. keep in mind that there is gonna be serious rust on everything and you will be fighting tooth and nail or every bolt you take off. dutch.
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