rusted floors

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Jul 12, 2010 | 04:32 PM

bagpype

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rusted floors

On my 1965 f100 the floor pans are badly rusted and I have located replacements. My question is, under the seat has some rust that needs to be repaired as well. Are these replacement panels included with floor pans?(im pretty sure they arent). If not, how do i go about either fixing them or does anyone know where i could purchase this particular part?
Thanks in advance for any comments.
Adam

Jul 12, 2010 | 05:45 PM

jowilker

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From: Creedmoor, North Carolina

Floor pans are the same from 65-79 with exception to distinct 4" added to the rear of the pan in 73. You might look at a later donor truck for replacements, too.

John

Jul 12, 2010 | 06:27 PM

bagpype

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Are there any aftermarket suppliers that would sell that part?

Jul 12, 2010 | 08:27 PM

sutton

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you thinks thats bad my cabs about ready to fall off haha!

Jul 12, 2010 | 08:38 PM

jowilker

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From: Creedmoor, North Carolina

Quote:

Originally Posted by bagpype

Are there any aftermarket suppliers that would sell that part?

None that I am aware of.

John

Jul 12, 2010 | 11:06 PM

bagpype

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John I found this on ebay, do you think;

1. Will this fit
2. Is it a good price (including shipping)
3. Should I wait to try and find something local.

Jul 12, 2010 | 11:13 PM

bagpype

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it would help to put the link in, sorry
61 62 63 64 65 66 Ford Truck Floor Pan: eBay Motors (item 180530001109 end time Jul-13-10 19:07:21 PDT)

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Jul 13, 2010 | 01:19 AM

bagpype

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Looks likeva big job but as you said, a much more manageable one than cutting and patching. Are the entire floorboards in decent shape hard to find? I can pick this one up on eBay for less than 300 including shipping. Should I grab it?

Jul 13, 2010 | 05:06 AM

#10

jowilker

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From: Creedmoor, North Carolina

Depends on where you are. I would not buy the ebay part.

If you are thinking power steering disc brake upgrade that could come with the right donor.

John

Jul 13, 2010 | 09:20 AM

#11

bagpype

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Somehow my truck has power steering already but no power brakes. What's the best way to locate these things locally? I used to open the yellow pages and start calling junk yards. The sheer amount of yards in georgia makes it an extremely arduous task. I am however, up for the task but am just curious if anyone knows of a better (easier) way.

Jul 13, 2010 | 10:39 AM

#12

Flyn66dtmn

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From: Montana

if it were me i would look seriously for a new cab before starting the project. it will save you a conciderable amount of time when you take in the time to cut and weld new material. i have done both and the cab swap was much easier as i had it finished before i tore down the driver. this is coming from just my point of view as i am not that good of a welder so i spent a lot of time grinding and rewelding as in some places i did not take out enough stock and the metal was thin and all it would do is melt away. and the list goes on. dont know where you are located but they are fairly abundant in Mont. and most are useable with no welding. just my 2 cents though. dutch

Jul 13, 2010 | 08:04 PM

#13

bagpype

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I just found a couple cabs locally, don't know what kind of shape they're in but they are local no less. If I decide to do the cab replacement route, how difficult a process is it? How difficultnis it to detach it from the front hood and fenders? How much if any welding does it require ?Sorry for the questions, I have never done anything like a cab replacement before.

Jul 13, 2010 | 11:10 PM

#14

tbm3fan

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From: Concord, CA

Here is a whole cab with a starting bid of 0.99 cents and no reserve. Only catch is you need to pick up in Texas. Anyone in Texas looking?

1965 1966 ford f100 custom cab only clean : eBay Motors (item 330451324365 end time Jul-20-10 15:19:51 PDT)

Jul 14, 2010 | 07:15 AM

#15

Flyn66dtmn

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From: Montana

depending on how deep you are going into a rebuild or a restore or just a daily driver. if all you're gonna do is drive it, it wll be fairly simple to do. no welding. Remove hood, detach fenders from cab,may be a bit easier if you remove the box so you have working room. detach anything that is attached to the engine compartment, ie. throttle cable, brake line, fuel line,stearing wheel. four bolts to remove the cab from the frame. keep in mind that there is gonna be serious rust on everything and you will be fighting tooth and nail or every bolt you take off. dutch.