Pulling the motor
Thread Starter
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Methanoholic
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 6,442
Likes: 8
From: Maine (NorCal Native)
Pulling the motor
Hi all,
Welp, The clip is off and I'm about ready to pull the motor out of my 86 and was wondering a couple things...
1. I see a couple choices for motor mount separation, What is the best location.
2. Do you need to drop the rear of the trans to get enough angle to get the pan over the cross member, it doesn't look like it'll come far enough forward to get the input shaft out of the clutch.
Thanks
-Enjoy
fh : )_~
Welp, The clip is off and I'm about ready to pull the motor out of my 86 and was wondering a couple things...
1. I see a couple choices for motor mount separation, What is the best location.
2. Do you need to drop the rear of the trans to get enough angle to get the pan over the cross member, it doesn't look like it'll come far enough forward to get the input shaft out of the clutch.
Thanks
-Enjoy
fh : )_~
Postmaster
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 4,319
Likes: 4
From: Elk City, OK
ok.... i just did this a couple weeks ago so its still fresh in my mind. 1. i unbolted the mount from the cross member, its easier to get to BUT requires you to lift the engine a lot higher then if you seperate the front to back bolts on the mount. i would suggest doing those. harder to get to but easier. ive got a body lift and needed that extra 1.5" to lift the tranny to get it out. 2. i just jacked up the front of the tranny and got it out BUT again, ive got a 1.5" body lift. you can pull the engine far enough to get the shaft out of the clutch IF you do not have the long starter. if you have the long starter you will have to remove it then its a breeze.
Thread Starter
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Methanoholic
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 6,442
Likes: 8
From: Maine (NorCal Native)
Yup, Leaving the bell housing, top bolts are out, the other 4 are still in, but loose, Tiny little gear drive starter, it's off, Oil filter is off.
So without a body lift will the trans come up enough so the pan clears the cross member or will it clear the input shaft before the pan hits the cross member.
Do I need to undo the transmission mount ...
The only things left to unhook are, PS hose, Fuel Supply, 4 Bell housing bolts, motor mounts!
-Enjoy
fh : )_~
So without a body lift will the trans come up enough so the pan clears the cross member or will it clear the input shaft before the pan hits the cross member.
Do I need to undo the transmission mount ...
The only things left to unhook are, PS hose, Fuel Supply, 4 Bell housing bolts, motor mounts!
-Enjoy
fh : )_~
Postmaster
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 4,319
Likes: 4
From: Elk City, OK
you can loosen the 2 bolts on your transmission cross member and slide the tranny back about an inch. that will give you the clearance you need if you remove the 2 bolts on either side of the block that hold the motor mounts together. dont forget about the return line hose on the back of the motor.
Thread Starter
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Methanoholic
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 6,442
Likes: 8
From: Maine (NorCal Native)
Return is unhooked.
Think I will loosen the 2 transmission mount to cross member nuts, can only make it easier!
Got a friend stopping by in the AM and he will only have about 20 minutes, I need it to come out easy, it's going to be hanging on a hoist, I have only used a engine hoist once before, never for a Diesel, I have always used either an overhead crane, front loader, backhoe, excavator, tree, tripod, apartment car port, my back, etc ...
Thanks all!
-Enjoy
fh : )_~
Think I will loosen the 2 transmission mount to cross member nuts, can only make it easier!
Got a friend stopping by in the AM and he will only have about 20 minutes, I need it to come out easy, it's going to be hanging on a hoist, I have only used a engine hoist once before, never for a Diesel, I have always used either an overhead crane, front loader, backhoe, excavator, tree, tripod, apartment car port, my back, etc ...
Thanks all!
-Enjoy
fh : )_~
Trending Topics
Postmaster
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 4,319
Likes: 4
From: Elk City, OK
i pilled mine with the harbor freight cherry picker, no worries. just try and keep it to the 1 ton slot. you can go half, but its kinda unstable at that height
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Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 4,086
Likes: 1
From: Malahat/Cowichan Valley
with my cherry picker, similar model, at the half ton mark i was able to lift the motor over the bed rail, it didnt matter to me if it fell because its the old crapper engine. It didnt fall and rolled pretty smooth. Would have been way more stable at the one ton so recommend that one definitely!
Thread Starter
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Methanoholic
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 6,442
Likes: 8
From: Maine (NorCal Native)
I can get close enough to use the 1.5 ton location so thats where I have it.
My help hasn't showed up, so it's on hold!
I highly doubt I can move it, I lose the hoist tomorrow, done or not! I hate borrowing!
-Enjoy
fh : )_~
My help hasn't showed up, so it's on hold!
I highly doubt I can move it, I lose the hoist tomorrow, done or not! I hate borrowing!
-Enjoy
fh : )_~
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 21,285
Likes: 15
From: Nutter Fort, WV
No need to loosen the transfer case mount.
The engine will come forward enough to get the transmission input shaft out of the clutch before the oil pan hits the cross member.
At least with the front clip off, you don't have to raise the oil pan 5 feet above the ground, so it will be much more stable.
Heater hoses, head and water pump
Fuel lines, lift pump and return line
Throttle cable
Wiring harness, alternator and main engine harness
Vacuum line to pump
Battery grounds
Put a wire tie around the clutch slave cylinder so it don't blow the piston out when there is no pressure on the throw out bearing.
Jack under the transmission so it don't fall when the input shaft comes out of the clutch.
6 bolts from the bell housing to engine plate.
With the front clip off, the radiator and hoses should be gone already.
An extra pair of hands in nice, but it can be done without them if your floor is smooth enough for the hoist to roll easy.
The engine will come forward enough to get the transmission input shaft out of the clutch before the oil pan hits the cross member.
At least with the front clip off, you don't have to raise the oil pan 5 feet above the ground, so it will be much more stable.
Heater hoses, head and water pump
Fuel lines, lift pump and return line
Throttle cable
Wiring harness, alternator and main engine harness
Vacuum line to pump
Battery grounds
Put a wire tie around the clutch slave cylinder so it don't blow the piston out when there is no pressure on the throw out bearing.
Jack under the transmission so it don't fall when the input shaft comes out of the clutch.
6 bolts from the bell housing to engine plate.
With the front clip off, the radiator and hoses should be gone already.
An extra pair of hands in nice, but it can be done without them if your floor is smooth enough for the hoist to roll easy.
Postmaster
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 4,319
Likes: 4
From: Elk City, OK
on my truck, i had the long starter (mitsubishi i believe) and there wasnt enough room to get the engine forward enough to clear the input shaft from the pressure plate. when i installed the new engine with the short starter, it was able to clear.