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oj guys i have a 89 f250 with a 351 im workin on at this point... i got an issue with the brakes. if the truck is turned off it will get to have a hard pedal at half travel, once i start the truck and there is vacuum, my pedal drops clean to the floor and even if i pump it it holds but the pedal is pretty much on the floor, also from the pedal area/ booster area i get a "whoosh"ing noise.... is the booster fried??
sounds like the booster is toast... Only other thing i could think of is if you didn't bleed the system out well enough and have air in the lines... but that doesn't fit the symptoms as well... might want to rebleed just to check... remember to do it in correct order too.. rear pass side, rear driver side, front pass side, then front driver side...
would putting a brake booster on from a truck that was under 7000 gvwr hurt a truck that is supposed to have the over 7000 gvwr booster, cuz its what i had, so i put it on, and no more whooshing noise, but the pedal nearly hits the floor before it starts to grab, i would guess the booster is just going to make it easier, and my problems probably lies in the pads themselves or air in the lines, what do you all think
would putting a brake booster on from a truck that was under 7000 gvwr hurt a truck that is supposed to have the over 7000 gvwr booster, cuz its what i had, so i put it on, and no more whooshing noise, but the pedal nearly hits the floor before it starts to grab, i would guess the booster is just going to make it easier, and my problems probably lies in the pads themselves or air in the lines, what do you all think
Like I said before... BLEED YOUR LINES! that will stiffen up your pedal and solve the problem. Also check all your break lines... if you have a small rust hole in them you could be pushing fliud out there and pulling air back in.
If none of the lines have been disconnected recently the problem is probably rear brake shoe adjustment, you want the shoes to be as close to the drum as possible without touching. But obviously if any of the lines have been disconnected a full brake bleed will be necessary as well.
If none of the lines have been disconnected recently the problem is probably rear brake shoe adjustment, you want the shoes to be as close to the drum as possible without touching. But obviously if any of the lines have been disconnected a full brake bleed will be necessary as well.
To add to what Paul is said... If you honed your calipers in the rear and put in new seals (ie "rebuilt the calipers). You need to rebleed the lines because this will also open the break lines to air. If you only opened the rear lines to air, you should be ok to just bleed the rear breaks.