Not me. That was the first time I heard a bad report on those hubs and he might have had a bad shaft to start with. I think those ebay sites have pretty good positive feedback too.

 

I would,my stub shafts where perfect before operation china junk unit bearing. Lucky I caught it in time. Why trust you or your families safety on the ability of an eight year old chinese kid to assemble knock off unit bearings. ???


Do your self and everyone on the road a favor and buy real parts.

 

These ebay sites are all pushing the same china junk, check back in 6 months the sellers all change their names but the junk is still the same.

Fake unit bearings are such crap that I would not even give them away


CAVEAT EMPTOR!!!

 

First, let me ask what brand bearing hubs do people recomend & where do you purchase them at?
As for me, I think I have my problem worked out. Just got the truck and still working through checking things over. Turns out the wheel was loose. Now I have 2 broken wheel studs and I think the wheel is going to have to be replaced. I'm going to check on replacement studs and just replace all 8 as the others look streased out.
Thanks for all the input and I hope I can repay someday.

Stephie (proud owner of 2001 Tippy)

 

Have a 1999 F-250 4WD made in Dec. 1998. Just found out the front hub assemblies are no longer made by Ford. They are listed as obsolete. Looking for after market hubs. I have 287,000 miles on the beast. If I can't find will have to do change out for the next vintage. Just had the rotors and pads replaced in addition.

 

If you just had the rotors and pads replaced, then your best bet is to get the old style hubs, which you can find from Autozone at $200 each. If you can return your rotors, I'd recommend doing that, so you can buy new rotors for the 99+ and the new hub assembly which is cheaper.

 

Thanks Jesse. Found the odl style hub assemblies and I am also replacing the factory hubs with the Warn Premiums. Sometimes I would need to use pliers to turn the old ones. That vacuum system that Ford had never did work right. I had it replaced 3 times under warranty and then I just said the heck with it and manually locked them. thanks.

 

No problem. I've got a set of Warn hubs also. They seem to work great, although I've only had the truck since May, and am just now getting into my first winter.

 

I just went through the same thing with my driver's side hub bearing being destroyed by a faulty U joint. The Advanced 4x4 ABS hub bearing assemblies do alright, I have used them often. MY truck has gone through a few sets in 5 years, though.
If you have a 4x4 and the Ford Auto locking hubs are functional, reuse them. If they are hard to turn, don't bother buying them new from Ford.($500 pair) vs Warn($180-standard225 Premium) LIFETIME warranty!
I have had two sets damaged by bad U joints and Warn has always taken care of me with new ones, providing I furnish original proof of purchase.
As far as ball joints, buy MOOG, they have a grease zerk
Good luck!

 

1999's are a problem. I have one of the first new style F250's. Just replaced both sides with new hub assemblies and added Warn Premium lockouts. Steering is much tighter and I will be testing the 4X4 this weekend. I don't depend on the autolock feature. I do manual locks to make sure. To many mud baths to trust the autolocks.

 

Hello newbie here,
not sure how to create new post but have been reading threads on my problem which started with bad -should say horrible front left u- joints which were replaced.

I have a f-250 sd 2004 5.4 locking 4 wheel drive manually doesn't seem to work(switching inside forget it bad axle seals and yellow seal torn so there is vaccuum leak also a.c only works when i switch to 4 wheel inside cab but after going 20 to 30 mph looses vaccuum and won't work)

after taking wheel and hub off there is bviously to much play ii axle shaft and the grinding noise i am hearing - especially when turning left -seemed to be universal hitting on lower ball joint nut(although there was no signs of wear).


I plan on replacing needle bearings and all necesary seals and washers but am hesitant to buy a new expensive hub if i don't need one.


Is there a way to know for sure if sealed hub bearing is bad?

Also the locking hub was replaced by ford a few years back and turns smoothly and looks very clean inside.

the front diff fluid hasn't been changed since i owned truck appr. 6 years or so.

would that cause grinding noise?



Thanks for responding in advance.

 

Jack it up and wiggle the wheel for starters. U-joints can make a lot of noise when dry....soak them with a rag soaked in oil overnight if you don't have zerks.