2001 4x4 F-150 5.4L Triton. I have a P0352 error that refers to a bad COP on the #2 cyl. I have replaced the COP and plug, cleared the error but i still have the miss and the error returns. I have performed a test that was in the Haynes manual that says unplug all of the COP connectors and using a LED test light connect it to the + side and then check the harness connector negative side and have an assistance crank the engine.

When i do this on all other cyl. my test lamp flashes. When i do this on the #2 cyl the light stays lit does not flash. So there is power there however its not intermittent like it should be and the book refers to only it not flashing says nothing about it staying lit.

Any ideas what this indicates?

Thanks in advance for your help.


Dan
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edit: I just looked at the Ford CD I have and it has all kinds of diagnostic info.

#3052 refers to the #2 cylinder.
#3053 is #3, 3056 is #6...etc.

edit: problem found and corrected. Pink/white wire at the coil pack connector was broke under the insulation. Took awhile to diagnose, figure out how to disassemble connector and solder everything up, but it now runs great. Back to terrorizing the locals.

found this on the internet, maybe it will help, Chellie

 

Sounds like a PCM problem. Might have to get the Dealer to check it out.

 

You have a ground on the PCM side of the coil plug.
All coils are supplied 13 volts thru a common fuse.
The PCM switches a ground on and off to fire the cylinders.
Either there is a false ground or the PCM is faulty for that cylinder.
There should be a code set to that effect.
Good luck.

 

Hi,

Question is how do i test if it is the wire or the PCM. I have the harness off the firewall and have found the pk/wt wire on the harness. How would i test that?

The only code i get is a P0352 but my code reader is the bottom of the line Actron scanner.

Any help I would really appreciate it!!

And thanks Chellie. That exactly my problem I think. Question is how do i make sure its the wire not the PCM and if it is the wire how do i identify where the problem is and how do i fix it?

 

Chase the wire color code back to the PCM connector.
Test at that point for a solid ground.
If no ground then test for ground at the PCM connector socket.
If there is, that is your problem. If not, you are missing it somewhere.
A replacement PCM has to be programmed with your "build" program issue.
The dealer may go to a FORD site, and input your VIN. Ford has the records of every vehichle it produced and the original program to download.
.
It usually take less than 1/2 hour to load a PCM but you will also need to have the PAT's system reprogrammed along with 2 keys because they 'marry' by signal for theif protection and engine starting.
.
Here is how the coil is fired on time.
After processing all data determined by driving conditions, a low level signal switch is signal pulsed that turns on a 'very hardy' solidstate switch that grounds the lead to the cylinder's coil that has 14 volts standing on the other side of the coil winding.
When the ground is opened, the spark is generated same as a single coil motor with distributer points or other electronic control method.
Since the coil is an 'inductor', once power is applied, the magnetic field produced around it's core stores energy. When that field collapses, it re-generates a higher 'spike' voltage to fire the plug and a lesser spike back toward the switch in the PCM and toward the battery supply that can be distructive if no clamping/limiting method are employed or working.
If the coil had no plug to spark accross, the coil spike in the feed could increase and brake down the PCM switch.
PCMs are usually near bulletproof for failure in this area but it does happen now and then.
So be sure you really need a new PCM.
I try to not get so technical but sometimes it is helpfull to hear the discription and sequence of event.
Good luck.

 

Could you tell me how to test for a solid ground? I have an Ohm meter and a test light. I have used my Ohm meter and I have .06 continuity at both ends of the pk/wht wire.

How would i check for a ground?

Thanks for your help!
Dan

 

Test the Continuity/Ohms of the other injector ground wires, at injector plug and plug at disconnected PCM, if your Ohm reading is higher than the rest, you have a issue with the wire hanging on by a few threads of wire, if you can, pull on the wire at the injector connector, to see if its broken under the wire insulation , also hook up your Volt/Ohm meter to the suspected bad wire/connector and bend it back and forth, to see if the Ohm meter reading changes ( WIGGLE TEST ) hope that helps, Chellie

 

I had to re read your first post, you say during a crank test, #2 cyl on the test light does not flash, but stays on, only thing that would cause that is the grn wire being shorted to ground before the PCM providing a timed grn. or the PCM is defective and not triggering a timed ground. I think you have done all that you can, and it will be best to take it to the ford Dealer to have the PCM tested or replaced, they will need to reprogram the new PCM if it is replaced.

 

I was told to do this test:

hook up a test light at the suspect coil connector and turn key on and verify light is on, then disconnect the PCM connector that the CD wiring goes to, the light should go out when disconnected, if it doesn't then you know the CD wiring is always grounded and repair to that circuit will be needed. If the light does go out, your driver in the PCM is bad.

I wasn't sure if i was doing it right but this is what i did:

This is when i get a light "always on" condition...vehicle being turned over, test light hooked up to the Positive side of the battery and inserted into pk/wht wire (not strt/run) side of Coil harness.
When i do that on a known good cylinder the light flashes.

I just tried the test above and my test light does not light up at all in just the KEY ON position with the test light hooked up to the grnd side of battery touching the pk/wht side of the coil. I do get a "light" on the start/run side of the coil harness.

This was the answer:
Ok, this sounds like the PCM driver is bad, since the light doesn't light with key on, only while cranking means the wiring is not grounded, and you have power on the other wire which is good. So I would replace the PCM, the new PCM must be programmed by a dealer.

Do you concur? I am pretty sure everyone is right..i just hate not being able to do things on my own

 

You Did Great in the Diag. of the problem, the only thing you lacked is the Official Ford Training Yes I agree with you that the PCM is Bad, the ford dealer will retest to make sure, so you dont pay for parts you dont need, Take Care, Chellie

 

ok thanks you Chellie...im off to the dealer in the moring...anyone know how much this is gonna hurt my wallet?

Dan

update...yes its the PCM and the answer to my question is $783.88