another 2001 Escape won't start
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another 2001 Escape won't start
Hi, all
This is my firs post on this forum. I just purchased 2001 Escape with problems and hope this community can help me
So here is a story:
2001 Ford Escape. About 164000 miles. Engine was leaking oil. "Good mechanic friend" of the owner rebuilt the engine. After that he become "bad mechanic friend". After rebuild (I have no clue what was exactly made to the car) car drove for a little bit and quit starting.
I got the car from the owner as a non-runner. She took it to the dealership and they said it will be too much to fix it.
Car will not start. The engine will crank good but no start.
I did some troubleshooting today:
1) tested 1 of the COP - there is a spark.
2) Checked if fuel pump works (as soon as I turn the key it will spin for a sec and than stop. Is it suppose to run all time?)
3) removed air filter and injected some starting fluid inside - no start, just a sound like a little explosion (I hope I did not brake anything )
Can it be:
a) timing chain jumped couple teethes? (bent valves as result?)
b) something wrong with ECU wires?
This is my firs post on this forum. I just purchased 2001 Escape with problems and hope this community can help me
So here is a story:
2001 Ford Escape. About 164000 miles. Engine was leaking oil. "Good mechanic friend" of the owner rebuilt the engine. After that he become "bad mechanic friend". After rebuild (I have no clue what was exactly made to the car) car drove for a little bit and quit starting.
I got the car from the owner as a non-runner. She took it to the dealership and they said it will be too much to fix it.
Car will not start. The engine will crank good but no start.
I did some troubleshooting today:
1) tested 1 of the COP - there is a spark.
2) Checked if fuel pump works (as soon as I turn the key it will spin for a sec and than stop. Is it suppose to run all time?)
3) removed air filter and injected some starting fluid inside - no start, just a sound like a little explosion (I hope I did not brake anything )
Can it be:
a) timing chain jumped couple teethes? (bent valves as result?)
b) something wrong with ECU wires?
Senior User
Joined: Feb 2003
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Wow, talk about taking too big of a bite to chew.
Your friend probably felt that way too. Don't fault him too much; he may still come in handy.
Well in your case you should start with a compression and leak down test.
Then once you are satisfied with the spark plugs and all the COPs, move on to a fuel pressure and leak down test.
If you do not have a good manual then get one, maybe your friend has one. You may find that the average Haynes or Chilton’s manuals somewhat inadequate. Check with your friend for a discounted price on a Ford service manual.
Do you have a code reader, then get one and post the codes. We can assist you with analyzing those.
Your friend probably felt that way too. Don't fault him too much; he may still come in handy.
Well in your case you should start with a compression and leak down test.
Then once you are satisfied with the spark plugs and all the COPs, move on to a fuel pressure and leak down test.
If you do not have a good manual then get one, maybe your friend has one. You may find that the average Haynes or Chilton’s manuals somewhat inadequate. Check with your friend for a discounted price on a Ford service manual.
Do you have a code reader, then get one and post the codes. We can assist you with analyzing those.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Sep 2003
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That is working correctly. The fuel pump runs on key ON, but if the PCM doesn't see engine rotation after a short period of time, it shuts down the fuel pump.
Senior User
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Is there fuel in the tank? Any idea how old it is or how long it's been since the car's been sitting? The fuel pump only comes on briefly when you first turn the key to ON (but don't start the car) - so that sounds normal. You can't hear the fuel pump when the car is running. The V6 Escape has a schrader valve on the fuel line, so you can connect a fuel pressure gauge to check the pressure. The repair manual will show what PSI - probably in the 35-60 psi range. The manual has a simple procedure for relieving the fuel pressure prior to working on the fuel system. I would install a new fuel filter.
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Wenter needs to attach a pressure gauge as described martin_csr. First, you watch for running pressure (checks pump). Pinch off return for max pressure (checks modulator). Then turn off and see that pressure holds (checks for injector leaking).
I do not think that the dealer would have turned down a simple pump replacement or even the former owner's mechanic friend would have missed it, but always worth doing a pressure check. You check three things with a
simple procedure.
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Little update on the truck.
I did spark plug test on all COP's. Every cylinder have a spark.
I also checked compression:
Cylinder number 1 (next to the oil cup) 185 psi
Cylinder #2 (next to right) 185 psi
Cylinder #3 (last on the front) 185 psi
Cylinder #4 (closer to left side above oil cup) 185 psi
Cylinder #5 (next to right) 195 psi
Cylinder #6 - 215 psi
May be I numbered cylinders wrong, but this is result of the check.
I do not have fuel pressure test tool with me today (will borrow it on Tuesday). I also plan on borrowing code reader and see if there are any codes.
Any more ideas what I need to check?
I did spark plug test on all COP's. Every cylinder have a spark.
I also checked compression:
Cylinder number 1 (next to the oil cup) 185 psi
Cylinder #2 (next to right) 185 psi
Cylinder #3 (last on the front) 185 psi
Cylinder #4 (closer to left side above oil cup) 185 psi
Cylinder #5 (next to right) 195 psi
Cylinder #6 - 215 psi
May be I numbered cylinders wrong, but this is result of the check.
I do not have fuel pressure test tool with me today (will borrow it on Tuesday). I also plan on borrowing code reader and see if there are any codes.
Any more ideas what I need to check?
Senior User
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Here's a thought. Ask her or go to the dealer to see what is was that would be too much to fix.
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Dealership is not open today, so the earliest I will be able to check will be Tuesday.
She did not know what dealer needed to do to fix it (I asked)
For engine to run (even badly and roughly) it needs:
1) Compression (truck has it)
2) Spark (truck has it)
3) Spark on the proper moment - do not know yet
4) Fuel delivered and injected - not checked the pressure yet
Plan to check if there are any codes stored in the ECU on Tuesday and check fuel pressure.
Was planning to do more work on it over the weekend, but looks like will have to wait
(
She did not know what dealer needed to do to fix it (I asked)
For engine to run (even badly and roughly) it needs:
1) Compression (truck has it)
2) Spark (truck has it)
3) Spark on the proper moment - do not know yet
4) Fuel delivered and injected - not checked the pressure yet
Plan to check if there are any codes stored in the ECU on Tuesday and check fuel pressure.
Was planning to do more work on it over the weekend, but looks like will have to wait
(
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When I was doing the compression test it smelled gas really bad. I checked the compression couple times and it was showing same results. My only concern is that compression on 4 cylinders is 185 psi, another is 195 psi and another is 215 psi.
Is compression suppose to be that high? What about the difference?
Is compression suppose to be that high? What about the difference?
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If you smell the gas then you are pumping gas you need to see if the pressure is correct and if it leaks.
I do not know what the compression ratio is but I believe that you are within the min & max pressures. The lows are more of a concern than the highs. When the rings and sleeves start to show signs of wear and tear then they leak. That is why you what to see if they hold pressure.
I do not know what the compression ratio is but I believe that you are within the min & max pressures. The lows are more of a concern than the highs. When the rings and sleeves start to show signs of wear and tear then they leak. That is why you what to see if they hold pressure.
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if you tried the "starter fluid" and it didn't start (plus you did what looks like a "normal" compression test), your problem most likely is electrical / sensor related... most likely related to timing. You are likely going to need an analyser to find out the problem since I don't believe "regular" timing marks exist on the engine.
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Little more update on the truck:
I disconnected almost all sensors. When I was trying to start the engine there was really bad smell of gas. So I assume the fuel pressure is good.
Now I need to figure out what sensors are responsible for engine start. I think if there is one bad sensor that is sending wrong data to PCM engine will not start.
Can it be camshaft position sensor?
How about crankshaft position sensor?
I disconnected almost all sensors. When I was trying to start the engine there was really bad smell of gas. So I assume the fuel pressure is good.
Now I need to figure out what sensors are responsible for engine start. I think if there is one bad sensor that is sending wrong data to PCM engine will not start.
Can it be camshaft position sensor?
How about crankshaft position sensor?
Senior User
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Do you have a manual? If not Get a good one. Ford service manual preferred! Look up the timing marks on the crank and camshaft alignments and start from there.
Now to your questions, disconnecting all the sensors will more than likely cause it not to start. One or two and it will just run badly. Cam and Crank position sensors bad, will only cause it to run badly, probably not keep it from starting.
Now to your questions, disconnecting all the sensors will more than likely cause it not to start. One or two and it will just run badly. Cam and Crank position sensors bad, will only cause it to run badly, probably not keep it from starting.