Do it your self bed liners?
i used the DIY spray on for my rockers on my truck i think i bought it at walmart.it has held up pretty good and its been on for a year.the big thing with liners is the prep you do.and another thing do you want a sandy type surface or a heavy texture type surface.the bomber can method will give you a sandy surface
i used the duraliner type ( with the ground up pieces of old tire in it, got it from checkers auto parts. ) in the bed of the hillbilly limousine, it took 1 day to PROPERLY prep it, and 3 hours to do 2 coats. the key ( just like for bodywork or paint ) is to get it prepped right,get rid of ALL the flaky,scaly,rusty,etc... then do it again, cause you missed a few spots for sure. and then wipe it down thoroughly with acetone.and do that again just in case. then you can go and apply whatever type of roll / brush on liner you have. good prep = good long lasting job. its been in for a year and a half, hard service ( constantly dragging lift bars in and out, tossing in chains, etc... ) and it still looks 95 % as it did when it went in. i am happy, it was less than $150.00 in material for me to do it, our local spray in liner place wanted $850.00....................
trust me, we (your local spray in liner) do not want $850.00 it is $450-$550 depending on what size truck bed, or rockers, or the interior of the truck, if thats what youre wanting done. the process takes bout an hour and a half for the in bed applications and is dry and ready to be put to the test as soon as we give the truck back to you. also it goes on much much thicker than you you can roll on! i work for line-x and have been for the past 6 years and change. believe me there is a huge difference!
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sorry i get a little carried away when it comes to liners and such yes chippenwhales is right tho if you do a do-it-yourself kit the prep work is the key to a longer lasting application do what he said to do and you will be assured a good adhesion to whatever surface you are applying to.
sandblasting the bed is the best way to ensure great adhesion. My dad and brother have been doing rhino liners at their shop for a couple years now on everything from truck beds to industrial applications like cement mixers and snow blades. With proper application and preperation, there have been zero returns due to faulty material. If you can hit rhino liners or anything else on white metal it will never come off. If their workers mess up the application, they just buy the guy/girl a new bed. It is easier and cheaper than taking it off. haha.
like they said here... prep prep prep. if you dont do it right, then its gonna peel off within the first 6 months. the price of they spray on has gone down a lot. rhino liner sucks, lineX is good, armorthane is good, theres a few other companies doing it now too. i heard the duplicolor DIY stuff is pretty good.
looking at the application and durability of my dads rhino applications, i would trust it over any of the others. If someone says rhino sucks then it wasnt put on right or something else messed up.
rhino has different compositions of material too, friend of mine was spraying for rhino here, and found out that it's different material north or south of the border. (I don't know what the difference is, just that it is different somehow.)
we had it on 10 trucks at work, stripped it off of every single one and had armorthane sprayed on. they are lazy and their product is crap. we had it done at 3 different places and all sucked. we'd have been better off with rubberized undercoating from napa hahaha... rhino liner was good until about 5-6 years ago. junk now.
Like everyone else said, prep work is the key to make it last, personally I don't like the roll on bed liners cause it takes for ever to roll everything and it looks like crap at the end (just what I think) so I'd go with spray on liner (easier for all the nooks and crannies) as for what brand I like rhino liner and line-x, my whole truck is painted with rhino liner and it looks great no cracking or chipping (just gonna suck when I have to sand my truck down to re-paint it cause the dumb*** that painted it painted over rust spots) Hope something I said helped you out.
noooo sandblasting!!!! just scuff the surface with 40 grit and make sure you scuff the edges really good you dont want to take it down to bare metal if you take it to bare metal in a large area you will want to prime that spot and scuff it again. a little bare metal is ok but in large areas it can fail.the existing paint gives it a better surface to bond to ans far as rust sand the crap out of it and prime it when you feel satisfied you got the rust.it used to take me 1 - 1 1/2 hours give or take over the rail or under the rail to mask and scuff a long bed by hand.then wipe it down with denatured alcohol.



