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i have a 88 model 7.3. both batteries r good a full charge. when you turn key to start motor acts like its barely rolling over. i can turn key off and try to restart a few times still dragging and then it will just pick up and start rolling over likes it is suppose to. what is the problem?
Sounds like a bad ground. Check the ground cables and ensure both that mount to the block are clean and solid. Inspect the cables from head to toe for wear or cracking. At each end of the battery if the cable is swollen or damaged, cut and expose clean wire, redo the connection. Also check the power supply to the starter and its ground. Let us know after checking that. It could be other things but nearly 100% of the above is free to do.
okay! one more question before i inspect cables! there is a solenoid that is mounted on the back of the intake manifold. what is that? it is making a clicking noise when i turn the key on
okay! one more question before i inspect cables! there is a solenoid that is mounted on the back of the intake manifold. what is that? it is making a clicking noise when i turn the key on
that controls power to the glow plugs. If its clicking as soon as you turn the key on when the motor is cold, then you may have some dead plugs, or maybe a dead controller? More electrically versed people will chime in on that lol
thats your glow plug controller. It clicks on and off to cycle the glow plugs on and off. First time you start in the am it should be about 10 seconds then a series of clicks following that are afterglow to ease the first minute or so of warming.
you have a multimeter? Check the power heading to the batts. Your voltage regulator might be frying them. Now by frying them, what do you mean exactly? Draining or heating them up. Heating is a ground/overcharge.
you have a multimeter? Check the power heading to the batts. Your voltage regulator might be frying them. Now by frying them, what do you mean exactly? Draining or heating them up. Heating is a ground/overcharge.
draining. the battery on drivers side is only 6 months old and will not charge
so you have two different batteries? thats is bad if so. one bad batt will murder the other. Get them load tested but you gotta get into the grounds and cabling, something is fishy there.
they r different brands. but all the#s r the same 850 cranking etc! i have noticed something else though. when u turn the key on i am showing less than 8 amps on gauge inside of truck. as the the glow plug controller starts clicking the needle on the gauge starts moving up and down to. the positive cable seems to be in real good shape. thank god! ford house wanted 268 dollars for new one. i will start on grounds and get back to u! did have the batteries and alternator checked. they r good. thanks
they can be different brands but the age is critical. Never replace just one. Its like headlights, replace just one and it always seems that the other one dies quickly thereafter. The voltage will jump up and down because the gp's are drawing hundreds of amps, that is normal. I am guessing you mean 8 volts, at startup with the initial draw, that would be about right. The battery cables from anywhere are a joke in price, just buy it by the foot and make your own. Way too easy.
my ground connections to the block were corroded, my amp light kept coming on and blinking, cleaned it and now everythings great, the needle moving while the solenoid clicks is normal I think mine does it too, but then again I also have two dead glow plugs
the needle moving around is fine. With bad glow plugs when you turn the key to on, it might click erratically or just seem to not come on at all. With the normal function, it will click and stay on for about 8-12 seconds, then cycle the afterglow clicks for a while depending on engine temp. With hot temps you might only see a quick on then off.
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