installing clearance light
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Postmaster
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 3,069
Likes: 1
From: LONG ISLAND N.Y.
installing clearance light
right now i'm ready to cut the holes in my roof. i followed motormans install link, (good link)but he says to use a 7/8 knock out??? he says 7/8 twice. i'm thinking thats a typo. that seems a little big. the center hole would be awfully close to the mounting holes. (he also reccomends drilling those big also). my green lee knock out set has 1/2"-3/4"-1"-1 -1/4". i'm thinking i'm going to use the 3/4". i think i would feel more comfortable with as much sheet metal i can have touching the gaskets. am i off base? any thoughts? thanks.
wait i think i figured it out. the 1/2" knock out really makes a 7/8" hole.
wait i think i figured it out. the 1/2" knock out really makes a 7/8" hole.
Last edited by spinella; Jun 26, 2010 at 11:26 AM. Reason: answered my own question...i think.
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Postmaster
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 3,069
Likes: 1
From: LONG ISLAND N.Y.
read my edit above. the large hole is for the lights plug to sit in. then there are two smaller holes for the mounting studs. the 1/2" knock out has a 1/4" pilot hole, what got me wondering was the larger knock outs have a much larger pilot. seemed silly to pilot a 3/4" hole for a 7/8" knock out. thanks for the reply....here goes nothing.
Hotshot
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 17,398
Likes: 317
From: Whittier, CA
I much prefer the knockout over the step drills. Far fewer hot chips.
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Postmaster
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 3,069
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From: LONG ISLAND N.Y.
thanks you, one more quick question. i have the center holes marked out-5 1/2" off the rubber windsheild gasket as per motormans wright up. do all the lights aim perfectly straight or do they curve with the windsheild. in other words are the mounting holes on th same curved line that the center holes on or are they drilled so that the lights are all absoulutly fowarded.
Hotshot
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 17,398
Likes: 317
From: Whittier, CA
I pointed mine straight forward.
Here are my notes from back when I did mine:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...ostmortem.html
But it's probably redundant since you have already studied the job.
Here are my notes from back when I did mine:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...ostmortem.html
But it's probably redundant since you have already studied the job.
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Postmaster
Joined: Mar 2008
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From: LONG ISLAND N.Y.
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Cargo Master
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 2,752
Likes: 5
From: Stillwater, OK
straight forward from the factory.
when I did mine, I got a 4' fiberglass bubble level and marked a long straight line throught the center holes of each pair of lights. Then I put the mounting holes along these guidelines.
I used a fiberglass level because it would bend enough to form to the roof of the truck.
when I did mine, I got a 4' fiberglass bubble level and marked a long straight line throught the center holes of each pair of lights. Then I put the mounting holes along these guidelines.
I used a fiberglass level because it would bend enough to form to the roof of the truck.
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Cargo Master
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 2,726
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From: Slatington, PA
Did you put silicon around the lights? I did and I'm glad for it, cause one of the nuts backed off the lights and the silicon kept it from leaking. One of these days I'm gonna pull the headliner and locktite all the buggers.
