Back hatch won't lock
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Senior User
Joined: Jun 2010
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From: Rowlett,TX
Back hatch won't lock
Getting all the kinks worked out here, everything coming together nicely except for the rear hatch not locking, big safety concern here. I insert the key, can't even get the key turn, wiggle, or anything. Solenoid locked up perhaps? I haven't taken it apart, just wondering if anyone has run across this issue. I did a search and came up empty, even went page by page to 20 and didn't see anything that may help. Thanks in advance.
Elder User
Joined: Sep 2009
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Had the same problem with mine. Couldnt even get the key all the way in due to dirt in the cylinder. After I got it cleaned I found that the tumblers had siezed. You'll have to pull it out, pop the chrome cover off and take it apart and free them up. And just a note, they are spring loaded so they should pop back up when you push them down.
Posting Guru
Joined: Jun 2005
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From: central Louisiana
start by taking off the inside plastic so you can see the latch. from there check a few things, 1) is the mechanism seized up its self, 2) unhook the rod that goes from the key to the latch and see if your key will turn (this will tell you if the tumblers are froze up), 3) try and move the latch manually, if you can't move the latch it may be seized up.
i had the same problem ended up my latch was seized up from the exposure to dust and dirt. the rear latch isn't sealed very well from outside debris. while i was in there, i took the electric lock actuator out and rebuilt it as well. turns out that wasn't the problem, but since i took it out, it didn't hurt to take an extra step in my eyes!
i had the same problem ended up my latch was seized up from the exposure to dust and dirt. the rear latch isn't sealed very well from outside debris. while i was in there, i took the electric lock actuator out and rebuilt it as well. turns out that wasn't the problem, but since i took it out, it didn't hurt to take an extra step in my eyes!
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Senior User
Joined: Jun 2010
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From: Rowlett,TX
I've taken the plastic off, and looked at the lock and the mechanism may both be locked up. The window will open. I tried moving the mechanism by hand and it wouldn't move, I tried moving the lock by hand after the rod had been removed, no dice. I looked at it and couldn't figure out how to disassemble it further to pull the lock and mechanism out, so any help here will be greatly appreciated.
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Joined: May 2009
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IM in the same boat you beat me to posting the same question. But I think im going to take my locks apart tomorrow. I called ford for a price on the four door lock actuators and they quoted me $65 each... Sighhhh... I tried wreckers and no dice. Its bad enough I need to buy a window motor for the drivers rear window but also locks, shocks, and possibly a tranny overhaul Im glad I only paid $4,000 for my Ex LOL
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Senior User
Joined: Jun 2010
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From: Rowlett,TX
How'd you pull the lock and actuator out? I'm having an issue with this apparently. I only looked at it for about 15 minutes though. Wednesday I'm going to really look in to it and try and get rid of the clunk near the leaf springs by greasing things up real good. I also bought some anti seaze spray for this task too, gonna give it a go, keep me updated on yours, I'll do the same. 2 heads are better than 1.
Edit: To add, I wonder if I took the bar off of the actuator and key lock, and just used the power lock to lock and unlock the door. Any chance of that working?
Edit: To add, I wonder if I took the bar off of the actuator and key lock, and just used the power lock to lock and unlock the door. Any chance of that working?
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Joined: Jun 2005
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From: central Louisiana
i used some penetrating oil (JB-80) and sprayed the latch to start with. then had to use some pretty good force to get it to slightly move, after that i just kept working with it for about 30 min or so to loosen it up.
as for the key lock, all i can say is try some penetrating oil first to see if that will free up the tumblers.
now as for buying new actuators........ you can rebuild them for WAAAYYYY cheaper! i rebuilt all 4 of the ones in my F250, and the rear hatch in the excursion, now i notice that the drivers door in my Ex is getting slower. once you tear into one and see what your looking for, the other are child's play!
as for the key lock, all i can say is try some penetrating oil first to see if that will free up the tumblers.
now as for buying new actuators........ you can rebuild them for WAAAYYYY cheaper! i rebuilt all 4 of the ones in my F250, and the rear hatch in the excursion, now i notice that the drivers door in my Ex is getting slower. once you tear into one and see what your looking for, the other are child's play!
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Elder User
Joined: Sep 2009
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If you look at the back of the lock cylinder you'll see the white dust seal, peal that back and you'll see the clip that holds the lock. There's not much room to access it so I just pulled the rear trim/handle assembly with the lock still in it. And if the tumblers are seized, spraying it alone wont help, you have to physically free them cause the brass corrodes to the pot metal pretty good.
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More Turbo
Joined: Jun 2009
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From: South Park, Colorado
Your post inspired me to take a look at my non locking hatch. I pulled the inside access panel off, found the lock/latch mechanism so gummed up and dirty it would not lock with the key or the actuator. I cleaned it up and applied a little Fluid Film, it now locks with the key but not the actuator. The little plastic arm on my actuator is broken, at least I can lock it with a key now.
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Senior User
Joined: Jun 2010
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From: Rowlett,TX
I pulled the back trim off to get the manual key lock out with the latch. No luck. I worked with the manual lock for a while, it moves a little, but not all the way. My solenoid is also frozen, is there a stick somewhere or thread that shows how to rebuild these? Also a little peg is frozen in there too, I read you can spray lube on there and work it for a while to free it up, I got some work to do but at least we're making progress. I did find my keypad code, that was nice.
Edit: Does anyone know the part number or where to buy the key lock besides from the dealer? I've googled everything I could think of with no luck at all. Crap...Edit:2. So I'm wondering if the PO didn't replace that cylinder to begin with, and when they had no luck with that they just gave up on trying to fix it? It moves, it just doesn't move all the way.
Edit: Does anyone know the part number or where to buy the key lock besides from the dealer? I've googled everything I could think of with no luck at all. Crap...Edit:2. So I'm wondering if the PO didn't replace that cylinder to begin with, and when they had no luck with that they just gave up on trying to fix it? It moves, it just doesn't move all the way.
Freshman User
Joined: Jun 2010
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Mark996: here is a link to repairing the locks https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/5...ch-folder.html