First time poster. I have a 2003 F-150 Supercrew, 4.6 liter, V8, 81000 miles

Apologizing now for the lengthy post, but have to give background info.

<O</OBack around November of 2009, my service engine light came on. Took to a service shop and they said I had a cylinder one misfire. With their suggestion I have them do a tune-up on my truck (i.e., replaced fuel filter, spark plugs, and cylinder 1 coil). It seemed like every week, I would have to go back to have them look at the engine again because the light would consistently come back on. Each time I would get a cylinder one misfire. Got completely frustrated with service and gave up on them due to they could never figure out and fix the issue. Needless to say, I still have the light on my truck today.
<O</O
Decided to take truck to dealership. They kept coming up with the same
issue but this time they suggested that I replace the cylinder head and possibly the head gasket for around $3400. By this time it is March and now for some reason my truck starts having overheating issues and coolant overflowing issues. On any given day, but not all the time, I can see where coolant has appeared to overflow from the reservoir and sprayed over the engine. Thinking that of course the dealership is going to always over charge for parts and service, I went to a local engine repair shop. The supposedly did a pressure test and now said the head gasket is blow and that the engine case could be cracked. Basically then said that I would need to replace the engine. Told him what the dealership told me and he said that it would be cheaper to put a used engine in than replace the cylinder and gasket.

<O</OEveryone has told me to look at the oil dipstick. If I see white powder/substance or the oil looks watery, then I should have a blown gasket, correct? But there are no signs of anything. Also, the only times the engine has over heated was within the first 5 miles of driving my truck after first starting in the morning or leaving for work (overheated only twice so far). After engine has truly warmed up, everything runs fine (ac works whether I need hot or cold air). The only thing I notice is a loss in horsepower in acceleration.
<O</O
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I guess I have multiple questions:<O</O
<O</O

1) What would cause the engine light to stay on?<O</O
2) What could cause the engine to overheat just randomly?<O</O
3) Is it easier to replace parts of engine or the whole engine?
<O</O4) Do want to replace with a used if I don't have to, but how much would a refurbished or crate engine cost? Any ideas on labor cost? Or other suggestion?


Any ideas or assistance is GREATLY welcome. Thank you for taking the time to read.


~Frustrated F150 Truck owner
<O</O

 

i had that EXACT same thing. you have a small hole in the head gasket by #1 cylinder. It is leaking coolant into #1 cylinder, that is the missfire each morning. Loss of coolant then causes the overheat situation....... get a bottle of Bars Leak block sealer and put into the radiator and drive 10 miles..

 

get the copper stuff that is compatable with antifreeze--- $10 at Auto Zone.

Bar's Leaks Liquid Copper Block Sealer

 

more explaination of what is happening.. toook me a few weeks to figure this out. THe pin hole leaks so slow it has little effect while driving. When you park overnight and have 10psi water pressure, it leaks 1-2 spoonfulls of antifreeze into the #1 cylinder. You startup the next morning and it bucks and missfires for 30-60 seconds, then clears up. Now you have the code #1 missfire. After a few days of this you have used a quart of antifreeze and that is low enough , with air trapped in the head, to start the overheating problems. ---- try the copper stuff, you wont regret it.

 

Thanks Steve(ill) for the great advice. Read up on the stuff from you advice. This is the one you are referring to, correct? Bar's Leaks Liquid Copper Block & Radiator Sealer. DEFINITELY worth trying out.

I hate to have to ask this question, but how do I get to where the radiator cap is? Is it under some of the plastic pieces in the front of the truck that I would have to remove? Or, did you just pour it directly into your overflow tank? Also, one bottle should be enough? The website says "for larger systems, use one bottle for every 6 gallons of cooling system capacity."

Once again, thanks for your timely response and advice.

 

One bottle is enough.

The radiator cap is on the "overflow tank".
The overflow tank is part of the pressurized cooling system.
If you look at the bottom of the tank, you will notice that it is plumbed into the lower radiator hose.

I suggest you change your engine oil & oil filter also, due to the evidence of water/coolant on the oil dipstick.

 

take off the upper radiator hose at the radaitor. just one hose clamp. pour the entire bottle into the hose, then stick it back together. Bottle says to idle engine till it gets hot and thermostat opens, but i find it easier to just drive down the road at 40 MPH with the engine just over 1000 RPM and let it do its thing. you have the get the "copper" flowing thru the thermostat and water pump thru the motor. goes faster if you pour in direct, not into the storage tank.------------here it is-------

Permanently Fixes Cooling System Leaks

Bar’s Leaks® Liquid Copper™ Block Seal Intake & Radiator Stop Leak seals larger leaks regular stop leaks won’t. One step formula permanently repairs leaks in gaskets, radiators, heater cores, intake manifolds, blocks, heads and freeze plugs. Use on cars, trucks, vans, SUV’s and RV’s. Contains an antifreeze compatible sodium silicate liquid glass formula, so no draining of the cooling system is required. Will not harm the cooling system when used properly. Use with all types of antifreeze including conventional green or blue (Silicate-based) and extended life red/orange or yellow (OAT/HOAT) coolant.



FUNCTION - Repairs Cracked Blocks

DOSAGE - Use – 1/2 (half) bottle in a small cooling systems, such as 4 cylinders with no A/C. Use 1 (one) bottle for regular size systems, most 4, 6, 8 and 10 cylinder engines.


p/n 1109 (18 OZ.) The Problem: The Solution:
•Larger Cooling System Leaks
•Heater Core Leaks
•Cracked Cylinder Heads
•Head Gasket Leaks
•Freeze Plug Leaks
•Block Leaks





•Seals Larger Leaks Seals
•Repairs Heater Core Leaks
•Repairs Freeze Plugs
•Repairs Blown Head Gaskets
•Repairs Blocks

 

the coolant is not in your oil.. it is leaking into the #1 cylinder and setting off a code. you wont see anything on the dip stick.

 

click on the "bars leak block sealer" line i posted at the beginning. it is a link to their page... make sure you get the "copper" that is compatable with antifreeze.

 

Hey Steve(ill) and 1975IH200,

Sorry for missing the link earlier about the product. Once again, thanks for the additional information.