Any thoughts or experience with removing belt driven fan and replacing with an electric one?
Does the clutch style fan do a good enough job?

 

This is one of those things that there are lots of opinions on, but not a whole lot of actual facts.

To get an electric fan to move as much air as the stock mechanical one, you are going to need a LOT of amperage, and a whole custom dual-fan shroud (unless someone makes a bolt-on), and a thermostat.

We had a big discussion about this a few years back, about the merits of electric vs. mechanical, and there were NO people that said they had cooling problems in the highest temps at the heaviest loads with the mechanical fan.

Mostly, it's people trying to loose the small amount of parasitic power loss that the mechanical fan adds, but when it comes on at full power, it'll take the same if not MORE to power the electric fans through the alternator. Lightly loaded, cool temps, the fan is "unclutched" so it's not really dragging on the motor, except for the actual pedestal bolted to the front of the water pump pulley.

Of course, let the "debate" begin now

 

There is no question about it that the OE fan does the job, its been tested by Ford and proven for years.

The bolt on electrical fans I've seen (for the PSD) will move a max of 6k cfm. I'm pretty shure fully locked the OE fan is capable of more than 6k cfm, although I have never found an actual CFM number for the OE fan from a proven source.

 

I was wondering about where to get a fan setup and how much would one cost also does anyone have any input on a brand preferance. I like things that just bolt right in life is just easier that way.

 

My last Silverado half ton had a mechanical fan, never had cooling issues or anything even towing up to 7.5k lbs (about 1k over rating). I swapped to a factory electric fan from a newer model truck, and picked up on average 1.25-1.5 mpg. around town was the biggest gainer, freeway was right at 1 mpg. Still, towing the same load, no noticable differance with the temps, and as a bonus, the ac worked alot better around town.

 

I replaced the OEM fan with a JY dual fan and shroud system from a V8 fwd Continental and it works great. Also makes a lot more room in front of the engine for any work that may be needed or just fo ogling at the machinery. A lot quieter too. Total cost was less than $80.00 and I did it myself.

 

The way I look at it is this: if mechanical fans cost less horsepower to run than electrical fans, then every *real* race car/truck out there would have mechanical fans

 

I don't know where this myth that an alternator at full capacity takes so much power to turn comes from. Anyone ever use/seen a bench test of an alternator?? The alternator is loaded with 60-100 amps to work the exciter, and spun at 2000 rpm (ish) and it is driven by a.............1/4 hp electric motor. Even assuming gear reduction, the max it would take would be 1 hp. alot less than 10-15 hp in my book.

 

Elecftric fans run off the power stored in the battery which is charged on a need basis and the only way it would make a constant demand on the alternator is when the battery has lost all charge. At that time you would have bigger problems than operating your fan(s) and have to replace the battery to do anything. In my opinion electric fans are the way to go, less noise and more horsepower available for real work when you need it.

 

Incorrect. The only time anything runs off the battery is when there is not enough output from the alternator. If the system is properly designed, that will be only when the engine is off or during starting.

I am a STRONG proponent of variable speed electric fans for MOST applications. Even the best thermal clutches are nothing but a parasitic drag at speeds over 40 mph. No fan at all is best at speed.

But it would take a monster of an electric fan to move as much air as the stock clutch fan. The Continental fan would be close! It probably moves at least 50% or 100% more than the biggest available aftermarket fans. But I guarantee less than the stock mechanical. It sounds like more than enough for the way you use your truck, so is a good solution for you.

I have done mechanical to electric conversions on several vehicles, the 2 speed monster from the 3.8 V6 Continental was my usual "go to". It moves a lot of air and was fine for the 3.0 liter V6 Pathfinders. But draws over 40 amps at hurricane force, which required a bigger alternator.

The clutch fan on the V10, when engaged (HOT), moves a HUGE amount more.

My input? Well maintained system in a mild climate? The Continental fan would probably be adequate and I believe it could result in a measurable mpg improvement at highway speeds.
But for heavy duty applications when stationary or moving slow on 100 degree days? Stick to the stocker.

I did read about a guy finding an electric fan from a Volvo semi tractor... it moved well over 10K CFM.... That would cut it! But it also drew something like 140 amps...

 

I have a small observation differance to the first statement. If a properly designed charging system would only run on the alternator, then somebody should tell GM this. I have had 3 late model Chevy trucks, and they would all vary voltage depending on electrical load.

I first thought my gauges were bad because occaisionally it would show 12.5 volts when cruising and no accessories on. I added an autometer gauge, and double checked to find that even on start up, the alternator would not excite until 1500 rpm would be reached. The alternator would then charge the battery to capacity, and shut off. the battery would be drained to a certain point by whatever electrically was running, at which point the alternator would kick on again. This progressive cycle was very noticable. Especially on the tbi truck, it would run for up to 15 min. without the alternator charging if at a light load constant cruise. I was suprised because I had always been told that if the engine was running, the alternator should be providing at least 13.5 volts. All three truck had the same charging pattern.

I do agree with the fan comment, in that if you work your truck hard bellow 40 mph, you need to stick to a mechanical fan. Also like you said, no fan is going to move more air than 50 mph air running through the radiator, mechanical or not.

 

Well that said sounds like I'll be keeping my fan on. It runs full speed below 40mph on a daily basis.

 

Correct. If the system voltage is above 12.6 volts (100% charged lead-acid battery), the alternator is doing the work. If it drops BELOW that, the battery is taking up the slack, AND the alternator is at 100% output for it's current RPM.

 

Not about fan removal, but fan performance. I have an observation I can share that’s related to the OP topic. I recently installed a 180-degree thermostat in my V10 and now hear the fan clutch engage while driving and towing. With the original thermostat, I never herd it engage. I wonder if the old T-state was keeping the temperature high enough that the fan clutch was always engage?

 

Maybe the older t-stat was stuck open? What was the temp on it?

I have the stock 190 (185?) that I changed once a long time ago, and forget what the heck is in it - and I KNOW when the fan is on, and when it's not.