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Ok im a newer member and I love this site, I own a 1988 f150 with a 302. Just recently though my truck has been running realy badly. It bucks and sputters like its getting no power. When I rev it above 1500 it just sputters like its gonna die. And it has killed a couple times. I thought it was a fuel issue at first but I checked the fuel pressure and its steady at 30 psi when idleing. Im thinking now thats its something electrical. The coil, cap and rotor, plugs and plug wires have all been replaced. One thing I havent done yet though is test it for codes. The check engine isnt on. Im realy confused and any replys would be appreciated.
First thing check for codes, the light only comes on and stays on for emissions related problem. To scare people into having it looked at.
Other problems the computer goes into limp mode storing a code but not turning on the light, then using data it had stored from when whatever sensor died, worked correctly.
It might not run right, but runs because of it. That is only for sensors that do not have to function, like the PIP for example, it can't substitute its input with stored information.
I would check for codes but I cant find the STI. Ive looked at pictures of how to do it online and a haynes manual and cant figure out where to put the wires and such. Ill take picture and maybe you can see where it is.
Looks like I can see it in the top picture, lowest wire in that group of wires going up under the test port cover to the connector, you know that cover that says "EEC TEST".
If your not aware you have to first pull the connector, the test port, down and out of that cover to use/access it.
Ok im a newer member and I love this site, I own a 1988 f150 with a 302. Just recently though my truck has been running realy badly. It bucks and sputters like its getting no power. When I rev it above 1500 it just sputters like its gonna die. And it has killed a couple times. I thought it was a fuel issue at first but I checked the fuel pressure and its steady at 30 psi when idleing. Im thinking now thats its something electrical. The coil, cap and rotor, plugs and plug wires have all been replaced. One thing I havent done yet though is test it for codes. The check engine isnt on. Im realy confused and any replys would be appreciated.
What's the psi when you rev the engine & disconnect the vac line to the Fuel pressure regulator?
when i disconnect the vac line it jumps up to 40. And when I turned off the engine after I hooked the vac line back up it stayed at 30 psi.
I did figure out the code test, Im not sure if I read the flashes right but I think i got a 33 code on the KOEO test. What does this mean? I didnt get any codes when engine was running.
30 psi is kinda low, even at idle. Do a test drive with the vacuum line unhooked from the FPR (but capped off with something so there's no vacuum leak), see how she runs at full pressure.
30 at idle and 40 with the vacuum line off or 2-6 jumped with the key on is what my 95 302 trucks does also with no problems on either tank.
This is with the new fuel gauge from Amazon, Actron CP7818 Fuel Pressure Tester Kit. http://www.amazon.com/Actron-CP7818-...7382548&sr=8-2
My other gauge that came with the $300.00 NAPA Injector cleaning kit says 34 at idle, 42 WOT and with vacuum line off or with 2-6 jumped then it is 45 on the same truck.
Maybe all of these Actron CP7818 Fuel Pressure Tester Kit gauges read 4 PSI low.
What I don't get is why jumping the pins in the test connector would cause for different pressure reading - the pump only puts out one pressure, I'd imagine if the voltage fed to it is lower it would make a lower pressure but jumping the test pins only triggers the relay for the pump just like the ECM does too...
What I don't get is why jumping the pins in the test connector would cause for different pressure reading - the pump only puts out one pressure, I'd imagine if the voltage fed to it is lower it would make a lower pressure but jumping the test pins only triggers the relay for the pump just like the ECM does too...
That's a good question! I will guess it takes the actual running of the engine out of the mix, which still begs the question, what's the difference?
Originally Posted by Nine Breaker
When my ford craps out like that, it's usually a vaccuum leak or not enough gas is going through my fuel line.
If I had a nickel, for every different possible way, a symptom could be duplicated by a different set of variables...........!
In fact, that's what keeps the Forum busy! Minus the nickels of course!