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Yeah, it was definitely my alternator. I had thought about having it tested again before I spent the money on the refurb., but I knew that they would be able to put the load on it and give me accurate results. Went to the Ford house, got the alt., put it on in about 20 min. and voualla, no battery light on the dash, with or without a load.
As for BostonX73, it does sound like a similar problem, assuming you're not loosing charge while it sits. Mine did not have a drain when it was stopped, only when it was running.
Not sure what to think on mine. I thought it was low this morning since I didn't run it yesterday, was at 11.7V. Started no trouble and made my quick trip and back, volts showed good again, up to 13.8 driving. put it on the charger to see how low the batteries were when I got back - and the showed to be 100% charged.
the old battery that I pulled out shows to still be at 100% after 5 days now too. So maybe it was my add-on wire that was draining things since it's still disconnected. I'll give it another week of watching things and then hook it back up(check it from end to end) and see what happens with things after that.
Ok, so I left the volt meter showing all night and the truck holds at 12.9V after things settle down and the lights go off. In the morning when I open the door it drops to 12.5V with the dome lights and whatever else that wakes up. Key in start the glow-plugs and Volts drop to 11.8 or 11.7V - this is what trips the battery light on the dash.
does that seem like too much for the GP's to be pulling? on warm starts it only drops to 12.3V or so.
I read a post on the 7.3 side about feeling the alternator in the morning to see if it was warmer than the motor - sign of current draw - but mine was not. Batteries seem to be holding fine over night, and have enough juice - just that big pull from the GP's.
In my opinion you need an atl. A bad alt. will in a very short time turn to 1 bad alt. and 2 bad batteries on a diesel.
The alt. should put out at least 13.8 Volts.
My thoughts: New alt.
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