Picked up a D44 TTB
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Jun 2008
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From: Florida
Picked up a D44 TTB
Today I picked up a D44 TTB for $50.I got everything I wanted including the axle housings,radius arms,steering knuckles,and carrier.Everything else I left because I don't want/need it.By the time I'm done with the front end it'll be filled with all new parts.
My question is,I hear all the time that 80-96 F150/Bronco Dana 44 TTB stuff is all the same,but I also hear that the outer steering components like the knuckles are different.I searched through the archives,but there doesn't seem to be anything on the difference.So,is there any difference between 80-96?The D44 I have came out of a 95 F150 XL.I don't see any difference in my 95 stuff from the earlier stuff.I just think this is something that needs to be cleared up.So any help is greatly appreciated by me and all the others wondering the same thing as me!
My question is,I hear all the time that 80-96 F150/Bronco Dana 44 TTB stuff is all the same,but I also hear that the outer steering components like the knuckles are different.I searched through the archives,but there doesn't seem to be anything on the difference.So,is there any difference between 80-96?The D44 I have came out of a 95 F150 XL.I don't see any difference in my 95 stuff from the earlier stuff.I just think this is something that needs to be cleared up.So any help is greatly appreciated by me and all the others wondering the same thing as me!
Post Fiend
Joined: Dec 2007
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From: Lost
There may be a difference in the knuckles other than where the calipers mount. The calipers/pads changed several times between 80 and 96, so I assume the caliper mounting bracket and/or knuckle changed to accomodate the different brake hardware.
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Jun 2008
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From: Florida
Is it possible to swap the 95 knuckles off for the 80 knuckles so I can use the 80 stuff,or is it not so simple?
Post Fiend
Joined: Dec 2007
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From: Lost
I can't say for sure, but I would think the entire knuckle from the ball joints out, would be swappable.
If it were me, I'd just use the 95 stuff for front brakes, they're not as prone to having the caliper slides stick.
If it were me, I'd just use the 95 stuff for front brakes, they're not as prone to having the caliper slides stick.
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Jun 2008
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From: Florida
According to JBG,the ball joints are the same 80-96,so I imagine that I can just swap to the 80's steering knuckles should they be different from the 95 knuckles.
Post Fiend
Joined: Dec 2007
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From: Lost
Any idea what gearing is in this D44? Since it's from a 95, I'd bet it had 3.08 or 3.55. If it's the 3.55, that's close enough to use a 3.50 geared 9", so long as you avoid trying to run it on hard packed surfaces or at highway speeds.
Also, auto or manual lockouts?
Also, auto or manual lockouts?
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Jun 2008
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From: Florida
Well,my buddy had already taken the driver side hub/rotor assembly off,but the passenger side was still on,and xjpilot seems to be right,this is definitely a 1 piece hub/rotor assembly from what I can tell.I can see how it's undesirable.It was 5 bolts holding it on.PB Blaster is a really great tool for them.The only way to get to them is with a wrench.Leverage helps too.
Rogue,all I've managed to do is pull off the spindles,and i've been working the last few days,so I haven't had time to pull any numbers.There's a set of numbers on top of the differential,could these be the ones I need?I don't see any tags bolted on or anything.
From what I can see pulling off the spindles,if the ball joints are the same 80-96,and the ends of the arms will accept older knuckles,I *should* be able to swap to early 80 stuff and be okay as long as it will align.I haven't took any measurements or anything though so it's just an early observation.
Rogue,all I've managed to do is pull off the spindles,and i've been working the last few days,so I haven't had time to pull any numbers.There's a set of numbers on top of the differential,could these be the ones I need?I don't see any tags bolted on or anything.
From what I can see pulling off the spindles,if the ball joints are the same 80-96,and the ends of the arms will accept older knuckles,I *should* be able to swap to early 80 stuff and be okay as long as it will align.I haven't took any measurements or anything though so it's just an early observation.
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From: Dallas
well the 1 piece hub was for 87-88 only. Even though yours looks like one piece, and will come off as one piece, it is still 2 pieces pressed together. and which bolts can you only get at with a wrench? there was only 1 that I couldn't get to on my D44 from a '92 bronco, and that was the one that was right next to the ABS sensor.
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Jun 2008
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From: Florida
well the 1 piece hub was for 87-88 only. Even though yours looks like one piece, and will come off as one piece, it is still 2 pieces pressed together. and which bolts can you only get at with a wrench? there was only 1 that I couldn't get to on my D44 from a '92 bronco, and that was the one that was right next to the ABS sensor.
Well,it's not bolts,it's the nuts.The hub slides onto the 5 bolts that are pressed into the spindle.Then,the nuts thread onto the bolts and hold the hub assembly to the spindle.The rotor itself doesn't allow space for a ratchet and socket.It's too close to the Spindle.
Here's some pics of the D44 when I got it.I haven't had much time to play with it aside from removing the spindles,so these are the only pics I have.
Post Fiend
Joined: Dec 2007
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From: Lost
I read somewhere that the ratio is stamped into the housing itself, along with plenty of other info. I think they said it was between the 3rd member and DS knuckle, front side of the axle.
I cannot understand what bolts you are having the difficulty with either.....
I cannot understand what bolts you are having the difficulty with either.....
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Jun 2008
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From: Florida
Lol,there's a misunderstanding.I didn't have trouble with any bolts,there's just not much space between the rotor and steering knuckle to get to the nuts that hold the hub on.I'll get pics to try to clear it up.
Post Fiend
Joined: Dec 2007
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From: Lost
Oh, I think you are refering to the nuts that hold the spindle to the steering knuckle. If so, remove the rotor/hub assembly first by removing the wheel bearing nuts (4 prong socket needed, ~$14 at advance, ~$15 at orielly). Once the rotor and hub is off, the spindle nuts are super easy to get at.
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From: Dallas
yeah, all the nuts are accessable from the end of the axle, you shouldn't have to go backwards to get anything. there are a few spindle nuts (referred to above) that need to come off, then you'll see the spindle and axle (if its still there) inside the hub. Once you get to that point, the rotor is ready to come off. Here's a link to a really good write up over at FSB that helped me out quite a bit doing this.
FullSizeBronco.com - 78 - 96 Ford Bronco offroad club, forums, tech, installs
FullSizeBronco.com - 78 - 96 Ford Bronco offroad club, forums, tech, installs
