1996 F150 4wheel drive problem
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1996 F150 4wheel drive problem
I recently bought a 96 F150 4x4, 5.0 liter, 5 speed manual, 148k miles. In 4 wheel hi or lo and on dry pavement it feels like the front axel is fighting with the rear axel especially when turning. The first time I put it in 4 wheel drive it felt like one of the tires had come off the rim. I replaced the factory automatic hubs with manual, no change. I checked the inner, outer and needle bearings on both sides of the front axe, all good. I checked the u-joints, all free and working. I also checked the gear ratios on front and back differentials thinking maybe the previous owner swapped one. I came up with 3.55 rear and 3.50 front. Not sure if I got it right but the 3.55 matches the rear diff's tag and front and back are within the 1% tolerance range.
Any ideas what I should do next? I thought maybe I would disconnect the rear drive shaft and see how it runs with the front only. I would do this simply to determine if the front and rear diff's are at war with each other. Could I a have a transfer case problem? I'm at the end of my rope.
Any ideas what I should do next? I thought maybe I would disconnect the rear drive shaft and see how it runs with the front only. I would do this simply to determine if the front and rear diff's are at war with each other. Could I a have a transfer case problem? I'm at the end of my rope.
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 5,670
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From: Sand Lake, MI
In 4 wheel hi or lo and on dry pavement it feels like the front axel is fighting with the rear axel especially when turning.
Nothing wrong with it, do not do that to it.
These trucks are part time 4 wheel drive for off road use and are not designed for use on hard surfaces in 4 wheel like todays suv's.
That includes hard packed gravel, only go in a straight line if you have a need to do so, pulling a car out of a ditch for example when the truck is on the road. In a turn where a wheel can not slip it is fighting itself. There is no differential in the transfer case to allow for differing wheel speeds front and rear.
Keep in mind you can turn a little but do it in a long arch, you will break something snap a axle, blow a u joint or a spider gear etc etc if you continue to do so.
Nothing wrong with it, do not do that to it.
These trucks are part time 4 wheel drive for off road use and are not designed for use on hard surfaces in 4 wheel like todays suv's.
That includes hard packed gravel, only go in a straight line if you have a need to do so, pulling a car out of a ditch for example when the truck is on the road. In a turn where a wheel can not slip it is fighting itself. There is no differential in the transfer case to allow for differing wheel speeds front and rear.
Keep in mind you can turn a little but do it in a long arch, you will break something snap a axle, blow a u joint or a spider gear etc etc if you continue to do so.
Postmaster
Joined: Oct 2008
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From: Renton, WA
I recently bought a 96 F150 4x4, 5.0 liter, 5 speed manual, 148k miles. In 4 wheel hi or lo and on dry pavement it feels like the front axel is fighting with the rear axel especially when turning. The first time I put it in 4 wheel drive it felt like one of the tires had come off the rim. I replaced the factory automatic hubs with manual, no change. I checked the inner, outer and needle bearings on both sides of the front axe, all good. I checked the u-joints, all free and working. I also checked the gear ratios on front and back differentials thinking maybe the previous owner swapped one. I came up with 3.55 rear and 3.50 front. Not sure if I got it right but the 3.55 matches the rear diff's tag and front and back are within the 1% tolerance range.
Any ideas what I should do next? I thought maybe I would disconnect the rear drive shaft and see how it runs with the front only. I would do this simply to determine if the front and rear diff's are at war with each other. Could I a have a transfer case problem? I'm at the end of my rope.
Any ideas what I should do next? I thought maybe I would disconnect the rear drive shaft and see how it runs with the front only. I would do this simply to determine if the front and rear diff's are at war with each other. Could I a have a transfer case problem? I'm at the end of my rope.
Someone really should have told you a long time ago that that's how it's supposed to act and not to do that. Did you ever tell any of the parts guys or anyone what was going on and why you were buying/replacing these parts? If so, I would be pissed, they really should have told you, this is rather common knowledge, and I would NEVER go there again.
Posting Guru
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 1,146
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From: Central Indiana
o_O?
Um, you know, you aren't supposed to run in 4Hi or 4Lo on dry pavement with a conventional 4X4. As you noted your diff's are not the exact same ratio, hence you would feel this in the front end as the driveline 'gets in a bind'.
All Wheel Drive (full time 4wd) vehicles, not to be confused with our 4 Wheel Drive trucks, have a center differential in the transfer case (which as far as I know, our trucks don't have) to account for the slight difference in axle ratios.
Best suggestion is to follow the owner's manual's recommendation to not operate in 4WD on dry pavement. Straight from my owner's manual;
Hope this helps.
Ray
All Wheel Drive (full time 4wd) vehicles, not to be confused with our 4 Wheel Drive trucks, have a center differential in the transfer case (which as far as I know, our trucks don't have) to account for the slight difference in axle ratios.
Best suggestion is to follow the owner's manual's recommendation to not operate in 4WD on dry pavement. Straight from my owner's manual;
Four-wheel drive operation (4H or 4L) on dry
pavement is not recommended. Operating the
vehicle in four-wheel drive on dry pavement
will increase tire wear, decrease fuel economy,
and make four-wheel drive disengagement
difficult for the transfer case.
pavement is not recommended. Operating the
vehicle in four-wheel drive on dry pavement
will increase tire wear, decrease fuel economy,
and make four-wheel drive disengagement
difficult for the transfer case.
Ray
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I also drive a 04 Dodge 4x4 and it doesn't do this. I don't typically use 4 wheel drive on dry pavement. I use the F150 to put my boat in the water and the ramp is usually dry concrete. When I drive in 4 wheel on loose dirt and grass I get the same result. It feels like the truck is really straining and lurching and would even stall if I don't give it some gas. Any other thoughts?
Postmaster
Joined: Oct 2008
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From: Renton, WA
I also drive a 04 Dodge 4x4 and it doesn't do this. I don't typically use 4 wheel drive on dry pavement. I use the F150 to put my boat in the water and the ramp is usually dry concrete. When I drive in 4 wheel on loose dirt and grass I get the same result. It feels like the truck is really straining and lurching and would even stall if I don't give it some gas. Any other thoughts?
You need to understand why this is happening, if you don't yet let us know we will explain.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2006
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From: Sand Lake, MI
I also drive a 04 Dodge 4x4 and it doesn't do this.
What system does it have, is it a full time 4 wheel drive like some Chevys?
If so then that's why it doesn't react the same way.
If not it may just come down to gearing and the tires on the ground.
and would even stall if I don't give it some gas.
Manual trans, yea if you don't stay in the throttle it will stall it out, still a very normal reaction.
Any other thoughts?
None needed, all three of my trucks would do exactly the same thing. I make a turn on hard surface it'd start hopping and jerking all over the place.
What system does it have, is it a full time 4 wheel drive like some Chevys?
If so then that's why it doesn't react the same way.
If not it may just come down to gearing and the tires on the ground.
and would even stall if I don't give it some gas.
Manual trans, yea if you don't stay in the throttle it will stall it out, still a very normal reaction.
Any other thoughts?
None needed, all three of my trucks would do exactly the same thing. I make a turn on hard surface it'd start hopping and jerking all over the place.
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jan 2009
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From: Fort Worth
I also drive a 04 Dodge 4x4 and it doesn't do this. I don't typically use 4 wheel drive on dry pavement. I use the F150 to put my boat in the water and the ramp is usually dry concrete. When I drive in 4 wheel on loose dirt and grass I get the same result. It feels like the truck is really straining and lurching and would even stall if I don't give it some gas. Any other thoughts?
Posting Guru
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 1,146
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From: Central Indiana
Well . . .
Hank,
One thing to check then;
Put the truck up on 4 jackstands and turn each drive shaft by hand, counting the number of revolutions the driveshaft makes for one rear tire rotation. Someone may have changed out a diff/axle w/o knowing it was the wrong ratio. don't always trust those tags.
Ray
One thing to check then;
Put the truck up on 4 jackstands and turn each drive shaft by hand, counting the number of revolutions the driveshaft makes for one rear tire rotation. Someone may have changed out a diff/axle w/o knowing it was the wrong ratio. don't always trust those tags.
Ray
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Yeah. And I'm starting to feel much better after reading these comments (although pretty stupid). Perhaps all is well. I'm glad nobody really hammered me. I only replaced the auto locking hubs so far which I would have done anyway on this truck so no money lost (yet).
Straight line and slight turn driving is just fine.
Straight line and slight turn driving is just fine.
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 5,670
Likes: 13
From: Sand Lake, MI
I'm glad nobody really hammered me.
No, no need for that just letting you know what all of us know.
I've had Ford part time trucks for years, its a normal thing you feel. I still remember the first time I felt it! A little freaked out yea until you realize its normal, and to avoid doing it.
Best thing to do if you have to do it is get in the gas, make it spin a little to avoid binding the drive line. But you gotta do it right if you do that, suddenly letting off for any reason while still in the turn can be and is very very bad.
No, no need for that just letting you know what all of us know.
I've had Ford part time trucks for years, its a normal thing you feel. I still remember the first time I felt it! A little freaked out yea until you realize its normal, and to avoid doing it.
Best thing to do if you have to do it is get in the gas, make it spin a little to avoid binding the drive line. But you gotta do it right if you do that, suddenly letting off for any reason while still in the turn can be and is very very bad.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Apr 2008
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From: Vancouver BC Canada
Yeah. And I'm starting to feel much better after reading these comments (although pretty stupid). Perhaps all is well. I'm glad nobody really hammered me. I only replaced the auto locking hubs so far which I would have done anyway on this truck so no money lost (yet).
Straight line and slight turn driving is just fine.
Straight line and slight turn driving is just fine.
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I appreciate every response. This is the first time I've posted on any forum and I only did it out of frustration. Wish I had done it months ago! My next project is to replace the radiator support. Wish me luck.
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 5,670
Likes: 13
From: Sand Lake, MI
Wish me luck.
Ok good luck!!
Be sure and stop back and ask about that radiator support swap you're gonna do.
Doubt you need luck, should go fairly smooth for ya however many here have changed it on their trucks so if there is a short cut or three to make the job go easier, this is the place to find out about em.
Ok good luck!!
Be sure and stop back and ask about that radiator support swap you're gonna do.
Doubt you need luck, should go fairly smooth for ya however many here have changed it on their trucks so if there is a short cut or three to make the job go easier, this is the place to find out about em.