Idle problem returns!!!
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Idle problem returns!!!
Bad news!!! I replaced the idle air control valve on my 2000 Ranger 10 days ago when the idle started acting up, and that cured the problem immediately. The problem is that yesterday I started having the very same problem again. When I come to a stop and press the clutch, the engine wants to rev high and then settle back down again. It doesn't do it every time, but still happens frequently (again).
The check engine light has been on since I've had the truck (about 3 years now) and the codes are still the same as before, 0171 and 1401. It's always ran fine, so I've not been much concerned with them.
About a year ago and around 100,000 miles, I replaced the spark plugs and wires when the truck started running pretty rough, and that cured that problem. I used Autolite Double Platinums after some research on here.
I also replaced the EGR pressure sensor valve hoping that would cure the 1401 code, but it still persists.
Anyone have any suggestions about where to look next for my idle problem? I've thought maybe I got a bad part, but feel more likely I have some other problem, but appreciate any advice or suggestions I can get. Thanks!
The check engine light has been on since I've had the truck (about 3 years now) and the codes are still the same as before, 0171 and 1401. It's always ran fine, so I've not been much concerned with them.
About a year ago and around 100,000 miles, I replaced the spark plugs and wires when the truck started running pretty rough, and that cured that problem. I used Autolite Double Platinums after some research on here.
I also replaced the EGR pressure sensor valve hoping that would cure the 1401 code, but it still persists.
Anyone have any suggestions about where to look next for my idle problem? I've thought maybe I got a bad part, but feel more likely I have some other problem, but appreciate any advice or suggestions I can get. Thanks!
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From: SW Va
On the P1401 code, go through the trouble shooting as Rockledge has it listed.
Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums - View Single Post - DTC P1401 Auxillary Emmisions Control. Malfunction
On the P0171 lean bank 1 code, maybe an intake manafold gasket leak, lazy or bad O2 sensor, so check the bank 1 O2 sensors switching speed & range.
Seeing as how it has over 100K miles on it & they get slow to respond with age, sorta like me!!!! lol
I'd check/replace the PCV valve & connecting rubber hose too, as it's time mileage wize & that part is often forgotten, is a programmed for vacuum leak thats down stream of the MAF sensor, so it can mess with fuel trim & cause idle mischief if it sticks open.
Maybe the new DPFE sensor is on the fritz, as the price you posted in your other thread suggested it was an after market part.
More thoughts for consideration.
Let us know how the touble shoot goes.
Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums - View Single Post - DTC P1401 Auxillary Emmisions Control. Malfunction
On the P0171 lean bank 1 code, maybe an intake manafold gasket leak, lazy or bad O2 sensor, so check the bank 1 O2 sensors switching speed & range.
Seeing as how it has over 100K miles on it & they get slow to respond with age, sorta like me!!!! lol
I'd check/replace the PCV valve & connecting rubber hose too, as it's time mileage wize & that part is often forgotten, is a programmed for vacuum leak thats down stream of the MAF sensor, so it can mess with fuel trim & cause idle mischief if it sticks open.
Maybe the new DPFE sensor is on the fritz, as the price you posted in your other thread suggested it was an after market part.
More thoughts for consideration.
Let us know how the touble shoot goes.
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Update: I decided to check the IAC valve by disconnecting it, which I had read on here was a way to check for a bad valve. When I unhooked it, the idle dropped down pretty low. I took it out driving around town, and other than just a little work to keep it running at idle when sitting still, it ran fine. When I got home and hooked it back up, the idle ran up for a few seconds and then settled back down. I didn't try driving around again, because before trying that, I drove around and about half the time, the idle would run really high, maybe 3000-4000 rpm, and then settle back down.
The part has a 1-year warranty, so I'll try taking it back and getting a new one, and hopefully I just got a bad part. But is it possible that some other problem is causing the IAC valve to go bad?
The part has a 1-year warranty, so I'll try taking it back and getting a new one, and hopefully I just got a bad part. But is it possible that some other problem is causing the IAC valve to go bad?
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From: SW Va
Lets think about this some more.
I suppose both scenarios are possible, the new IAC could be bad, or there could be other things causing the computer to miscontrol the IAC.
BUT, on your other thread, you posted that when you replaced the old IAC, the high idle speed was fixed, so it seems to me, if the computer were miscontrolling the IAC to begin with, replacing the IAC with a new one, wouldn't have fixed the problem as you reported on your other thread.
Additionally you've posted on this thread, that if you disconnect the new IAC & drive it, that the high idle speed doean't happen.
SO, it seems to me, barring something else having gone wrong, like a sticking throttle plate or cable, which didn't happen on your test drive, you likely have a problem with the new IAC????!!!
So I agree, since it's under warranty, try replacing it & let us know how it goes.
I suppose both scenarios are possible, the new IAC could be bad, or there could be other things causing the computer to miscontrol the IAC.
BUT, on your other thread, you posted that when you replaced the old IAC, the high idle speed was fixed, so it seems to me, if the computer were miscontrolling the IAC to begin with, replacing the IAC with a new one, wouldn't have fixed the problem as you reported on your other thread.
Additionally you've posted on this thread, that if you disconnect the new IAC & drive it, that the high idle speed doean't happen.
SO, it seems to me, barring something else having gone wrong, like a sticking throttle plate or cable, which didn't happen on your test drive, you likely have a problem with the new IAC????!!!
So I agree, since it's under warranty, try replacing it & let us know how it goes.
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EGR pressure sensor valve
I also have a 2000 with a 4.0 and was just wondering where the EGR Pressure sensor valve is. I was told the 2000 and up did not have an egr valve. Did wonder how it would not have an egr valve.
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My 2000 has the 2.5 so I'm not sure if the EGR pressure sensor valve is in the same place or not. Mine is located on the passenger side of the motor, on a bracket mounted between the last 2 spark plugs.
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Ok, took the IAC valve back to the store yesterday and exchanged for a new one. Put it on this morning and took for a drive to a nearby town about 20 minutes away, and then came back. Had no problems with the idle, so for now, it seems to be ok. I'll continue to drive however, and see if it comes back.
Just a side note, while putting on the new IAC valve, I unhooked the battery to clear all the codes. When I took it out for a drive, the CEL stayed off until I was on my way back home. Back home, I checked the codes and all I'm getting now is the 1401 code.
Just a side note, while putting on the new IAC valve, I unhooked the battery to clear all the codes. When I took it out for a drive, the CEL stayed off until I was on my way back home. Back home, I checked the codes and all I'm getting now is the 1401 code.
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Update......been about a month now since I replaced the IAC valve again, and this time, it seems to be ok, so maybe the first one I got from the auto parts store was a bad part. Although, the idle still doesn't seem just exactly as smooth as it originally was, maybe just a cheaper quality part, not as good as a factory replacement part........
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Ok guys, this time the part lasted nearly 2 months, and once again, I'm experiencing a racing idle at times while driving or when I clutch, but not all the time. Exact same symtoms as before that was cured both times by a new IAC valve. I can accept that maybe I got a bad part the first time, but to get 2 bad parts in a row seems a bit of a stretch. I don't know if these other things are related, but within the last month, I've had the A/C fuse blow that's in the fuse box in the engine bay, and I've noticed that I now have only 2 functional bulbs behind the instrument cluster in my dash.
What do you guys think? Do I have some stay electrical gremlin running through my wiring that's causing these IAC valves to go bad? Any suggestions as to what to look at next? Thanks!
What do you guys think? Do I have some stay electrical gremlin running through my wiring that's causing these IAC valves to go bad? Any suggestions as to what to look at next? Thanks!
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Ok guys, this time the part lasted nearly 2 months, and once again, I'm experiencing a racing idle at times while driving or when I clutch, but not all the time. Exact same symtoms as before that was cured both times by a new IAC valve. I can accept that maybe I got a bad part the first time, but to get 2 bad parts in a row seems a bit of a stretch....
Aftermarket IACs are known to fail early... It has been oft reported.
Where was it made? The replacement Motrocraft IAC for my 2.0L I4 was made in Japan.
I would get an oem unit & look into that other stuff. Maybe the a/c compressor is starting to seize up or something.
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From: SW Va
Ok guys, this time the part lasted nearly 2 months, and once again, I'm experiencing a racing idle at times while driving or when I clutch, but not all the time. Exact same symtoms as before that was cured both times by a new IAC valve. I can accept that maybe I got a bad part the first time, but to get 2 bad parts in a row seems a bit of a stretch. I don't know if these other things are related, but within the last month, I've had the A/C fuse blow that's in the fuse box in the engine bay, and I've noticed that I now have only 2 functional bulbs behind the instrument cluster in my dash.
What do you guys think? Do I have some stay electrical gremlin running through my wiring that's causing these IAC valves to go bad? Any suggestions as to what to look at next? Thanks!
What do you guys think? Do I have some stay electrical gremlin running through my wiring that's causing these IAC valves to go bad? Any suggestions as to what to look at next? Thanks!
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Two bad aftermarket units a "bit of a stretch"? How do you figure that?
Aftermarket IACs are known to fail early... It has been oft reported.
Where was it made? The replacement Motrocraft IAC for my 2.0L I4 was made in Japan.
I would get an oem unit & look into that other stuff. Maybe the a/c compressor is starting to seize up or something.
Aftermarket IACs are known to fail early... It has been oft reported.
Where was it made? The replacement Motrocraft IAC for my 2.0L I4 was made in Japan.
I would get an oem unit & look into that other stuff. Maybe the a/c compressor is starting to seize up or something.
The reason I thought maybe something was causing the parts to go bad is my check engine light is on, and my code reader says the code is 1401, which according to the book that came with the reader is high voltage detected at the EGR DPFE sensor. I'm no electrician, so I thought maybe there could be higher voltage running through the system somehow that might cause the IAC valves to go bad, and might also explain the blown fuses and dash bulbs.
I'll get the Ford IAC valve and try that and let you all know how that goes. Thanks!