Radius Arm Bushing replacement
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Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2010
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From: Acworth, GA
Radius Arm Bushing replacement
My truck is a 1985 F150 4x2 and I am looking at replacing my Radius Arm Bushings myself. My question is; will I need to do an alignment when I am finished with them? Or can I wait until a later date when I replace the Axle Pivot Bushings and then do the alignment? If I have to wait, then I will do the Radius Arm Bushings right before I possibly take it to the shop to have the Axle Pivot Bushings done. I'm not sure that I want to tackle the Axle Pivot Bushings in my backyard, but the shop wants $125/each X2 to do them (I have the new polyurethane bushings in hand), and they want another $60-$65 for the alignment. On a side note, I just replaced all of my rear suspension bushings with new polyurethane ones this last weekend. So, how much more of a pain can it be to do the ones in the front? I did have to make several trips to the local Home Depot for parts needed to fabricate some tools for removal and installation of said bushings. Obviously, I don't want to get it all apart only to find that I have to have it towed somewhere for them to put it back together.
Elder User
Joined: Jun 2010
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From: Casper, Wyoming
My truck is a 1985 F150 4x2 and I am looking at replacing my Radius Arm Bushings myself. My question is; will I need to do an alignment when I am finished with them? Or can I wait until a later date when I replace the Axle Pivot Bushings and then do the alignment? If I have to wait, then I will do the Radius Arm Bushings right before I possibly take it to the shop to have the Axle Pivot Bushings done. I'm not sure that I want to tackle the Axle Pivot Bushings in my backyard, but the shop wants $125/each X2 to do them (I have the new polyurethane bushings in hand), and they want another $60-$65 for the alignment. On a side note, I just replaced all of my rear suspension bushings with new polyurethane ones this last weekend. So, how much more of a pain can it be to do the ones in the front? I did have to make several trips to the local Home Depot for parts needed to fabricate some tools for removal and installation of said bushings. Obviously, I don't want to get it all apart only to find that I have to have it towed somewhere for them to put it back together.
The right side on my 84 F150 4X4 wasn't bad, but the left was a bit harder. Your 4X2 might be easier, though.
I did it myself because the monkeys at the alignment shop wanted to cut the rivets off the RA bracket and use G8 bolts to reinstall it. I figured that if FoMoCo put rivets in, it was for a reason. Besides, I didn't want the alignment monkey NEAR my truck with a torch, and that's how they're going to remove the brackets.
I can't speak to your axle pivots- maybe someone else will chime in.
Senior User
Joined: Jun 2009
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From: Oklahoma
I replaced mine about a year ago, took about an hour total. I had the use of a portapower jack to help me. Just jack enough to replace the bushings & no further, some don't like this approach but it works. I did not do an alignment & had no problems.
This was radius arm bushings
okiepc1
This was radius arm bushings
okiepc1
Carpenter Local 745
Joined: Apr 2006
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From: on da beach
Cutting off the OEM rivets and replacing them with grade 8 bolts is common practice, at least with FTE users. It makes for easier bushing replacement in the future. Rancho suspensionʻs TTB system relocated the RA bracket and used high quality bolts to reattatch to the frame.
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Joined: Jan 2001
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From: Virginia
The bushings don't seem to last but a few years and need replacement. I am glad on my old 80 someone had drilled the rivets out and used bolts, because it made it so much easier to replace them. Your polyurethane bushings will last longer though, so if you want to take the frontend loose and use a come-along to pull the frontend forward to change them, you might not have to do it again.
I just did the pivot bushings on my 89, and they are not very easy to do. The twin-I-beam setup fights you the whole way, and I had to make some custom thick washers and use all-thread to press the new bushings in place. But yours may be easier since it's not 4wd.
I just did the pivot bushings on my 89, and they are not very easy to do. The twin-I-beam setup fights you the whole way, and I had to make some custom thick washers and use all-thread to press the new bushings in place. But yours may be easier since it's not 4wd.
Elder User
Joined: Apr 2010
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From: South Jersey
I couldn't help but giggle while watching this: YouTube - 94 f150 goes clunk
Here's what it looks like when you're done: YouTube - FORD F150 BUSHING REPLACEMENT
Here's what it looks like when you're done: YouTube - FORD F150 BUSHING REPLACEMENT
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Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2010
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From: Acworth, GA
I'm really not sure if I would want to replace the rivets with grade 8 bolts. Would there be any benefits to that, other than ease of service? Would the bolts make it stronger or weaker? What thickness should the bolts be?
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Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2005
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From: Charles Town, W bygod Va
IIRC 1/2" bolts to replace rivets. I've seen people use grade 5 with no problems, grade 8 like in the video are probably as strong or stronger than the rivets
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Post Fiend
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From: Lost
Many shops do cut the brackets loose, and replace with bolts. If the bushings are left too long before replacing them, that step is needed, since the brackets will wear and must be replaced.
One thing that makes it easier to replace the bushings without cutting the rivets, is removing the upper shock mount and the upper spring retainer. This will allow the I-beam to drop down a bit lower, and can be pulled far enough forward to replace the bushings without using a porta-power or come-along. Of course, the tire needs to be off, and the frame supported on safety stands.
If this were a 4wd, it's typically easier to cut the rivets and replace with grade 8 bolts. The 4wd axles are much heavier, and therefore harder to wrestle around.
One thing that makes it easier to replace the bushings without cutting the rivets, is removing the upper shock mount and the upper spring retainer. This will allow the I-beam to drop down a bit lower, and can be pulled far enough forward to replace the bushings without using a porta-power or come-along. Of course, the tire needs to be off, and the frame supported on safety stands.
If this were a 4wd, it's typically easier to cut the rivets and replace with grade 8 bolts. The 4wd axles are much heavier, and therefore harder to wrestle around.
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Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2010
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From: Acworth, GA
OK Rogue, I like the idea of not having to remove the rivets to install the bushings. But, now my question is, if I remove the rivets and replace them with bolts, will I still have to make a trip to the alignment shop when I am finished?
Senior User
Joined: Jul 2008
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From: San Antonio, Texas
One thing that makes it easier to replace the bushings without cutting the rivets, is removing the upper shock mount and the upper spring retainer. This will allow the I-beam to drop down a bit lower, and can be pulled far enough forward to replace the bushings without using a porta-power or come-along. Of course, the tire needs to be off, and the frame supported on safety stands.
This is sooo true, after replacing my bushings my caster is still off 1 degree and i have sense left it, i was told no tire wear will occur but i still have the pull on steering, my radius arm bushing were probably out for a long time and i didn't know.
Elder User
Joined: Apr 2010
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From: South Jersey
hmmm, as far as i know my radius arm bushings are stock. looking at them though they don't seem to be bad... no cracking or fraying. i don't hear any clank sounds and when i've jacked the front end up and tried to move the wheels with a prybar i got nothing.