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voltmeter sudden drop - 2002 Excursion

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Old Jun 18, 2010 | 07:27 PM
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voltmeter sudden drop - 2002 Excursion

2002 7.3l 4 x 4 Excursion Limited - the voltmeter usually runs about 12 volts at cold start and jumps up to 14.0-14.2 after the glow plugs shut off ( 13.8 with headlights and foglights on). The last 3 times I drove it the voltage stayed at 12.0-12.2 volts, 11.8 with the headlights and foglights on. The vehicle is still starting ok.. new batteries 8 months ago. 130k miles total on the vehicle.
question 1 : how do I disable the gpcm to make sure its not faulty and drawing 100% of the time? can the vehicle run without it?
question 2 - how do I jumper the terminals on the voltage regulator for full alternator charge?
question 3 - is the regulator built into the alternator?

all troubleshooting tips welcome,,, would rather not just throw parts at it.

also, where do I get real ford manuals at? have a 2000 f350 drw 4 x 4 and this ex I'd like to get manuals for.
 
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Old Jun 19, 2010 | 07:59 PM
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bump back to the top with more info -
took it out this afternoon after reading the gpcm pinpoint test posted here on fte( did a web search and there it was, y'all can take a bow for posting that just for me). I turned the climate control off ( first time in the 2 years I have owned the beast, has the automatic system) and took a drive out to the farm. It got up to 13 volts at 75 mph... not its usual 14 but at least it is charging some. I turned the a/c backon for the return trip and it stuck about 12.2. I am guessing more alternator/ regulator now.

Is the regulator separate or inside the alternator? way to jumper the alt for full charge to check it?? Mind you I have no lights, no codes, just watching the aftermarket voltmeter and it changed ranges suddenly.
 
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Old Jun 19, 2010 | 08:29 PM
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Sounds like you have a faulty Glow Plug Relay that is not dropping out. You could just unhook the the wires and see if your voltage returns to normal. Shouldn't need the glowplugs now.
 
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Old Jun 20, 2010 | 01:38 PM
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As Barry said above, you can just unplug the GPCM temporarily. It will set a code, but not-to-worry.

Your field brushes could also be reaching end-of-life, and will not make good contact with the slip rings, resulting in reduced alternator performance. The charge rate will be less than normal, and your batteries will eventually start to go flat, resulting in a crank-but-no-start.

Pop
 
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Old Jun 20, 2010 | 01:42 PM
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Use a VOM and check the voltage on the big terminal on the back of the alternator. That way you will know what voltage the alternator is putting out without anything else in the circuit. Sounds like you may have an alternator going out but this should help isolate the problem.
 
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Old Jun 20, 2010 | 03:22 PM
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x2 on tired alt. That's how it starts. And don't wait too long. It could take out the 8 month old batts if you do.
 
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Old Jun 20, 2010 | 03:30 PM
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Anytime a lead-acid battery drops below 75 percent of full charge, sulfation begins to happen. That's about 1.225 specific gravity. Each time the electrolyte drops below that mark it adds a little more coating to the plates.

It's a cumulative process, which eventually covers the plates, eventually resulting in a "dead" battery.

Keeping them as close to fully-charged as possible increases their lifespan considerably, and one kept fully charged can last a LOT of years. Ask your phone company about their back-up batteries.

Here's a primer on it:
http://www.wisegeek.com/how-does-sul...-a-battery.htm

Pop
 
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Old Jun 23, 2010 | 01:11 AM
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disconnected the gpcm... turned off all electrical, still 12.0 at idle, would creep up to 12.6 at highway speed. I got a new alternator in from napa.... back to its old self. 13 volts idling cold, coming back to 14 battery volts slowly at highway speeds. Thanks for all assistance guys. I think its time to throw a gpcm in the parts stash... my luck it will die the first day of the coldest week of the year and not have nything locally available.
 
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Old Jun 23, 2010 | 06:59 AM
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You can disable computer control of your glow plug relay very easily by disconnecting the small signal wire from the driver's side post.
I forget the color code right now, but it's the small wire that does not get 12v when the ignition is switched on first thing in the morning.
The glow plug is controlled by completing the circuit to ground on that post.
If you want to control it yourself, like I have, then simply run a new wire into the cab from that same post, then to a simple momentary on push button switch and from there to ground.
What I do to start my truck now is to push the button and turn on the ignition, and start it when the wait to start light goes out or even a little sooner if the weather is warm.
Then I release the button and the charge rate goes straight to 14v because the glow plugs are now turned off.
Engine is a little smokier first thing in the morning, but so what, it's a cold diesel engine!
Soon as I drive off it clears out.
I also have run some jumper wires to the battery from the alternator.
Doing that made a HUGE difference in the charge rate at the battery posts.
Much more stable charge rate.

 
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