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Greetings. I have an issue with my f250 7.3L diesel. Before I owned it, it belonged to my dad. The truck ran great before it was parked last Oct/Nov. About 2 weeks ago it was given to me by him and since then its been nothing but trouble. Basically it wont run. I replaced the filter and filled it with Diesel Kleen. Im getting fuel to the filter, fuel to the injection pump but no fuel to the injectors. I've cracked one of the lines to the injector to pass any air through but still no fuel. Is there a chance that the solenoid could be locked in the off position prevention fuel flow ? Ive searched related forms but all I come up with is air in the system and I dont see any plunger on the side of the pump aside from " what looks like " one mechanically operared with the " high idle" solenoid.
The solenoids humm before you try starting it too btw.
This is my first diesel truck. I thought working on my 03 mustang was a B-otch.
Any advise/help would be very appreciated.
There are two wires going to the Injection Pump ... Turn the key on and disconnect the forward most connector, touch it back on the terminal, do you hear a click???
That is the FSS (Fuel Shutoff solenoid), if it clicks, the Injection Pump may be bad.
You can try filling it with a Diesel cleaner lubricator and letting it set for a day or so, though I doubt it'll help.
There are two wires going to the Injection Pump ... Turn the key on and disconnect the forward most connector, touch it back on the terminal, do you hear a click???
That is the FSS (Fuel Shutoff solenoid), if it clicks, the Injection Pump may be bad.
You can try filling it with a Diesel cleaner lubricator and letting it set for a day or so, though I doubt it'll help.
What solenoid hums???
Why was it parked, did it have issues then???
-Enjoy
fh : )_~
I do have 2 solenoids ( I think ), 2 wires. When I power the key on, the wire closest to radiator has power and makes a click noise. The wire closest to the fire wall does not have power to it. I think I read somewhere that both must have power. The 3rd wire is for the high idle solenoid.
It was parked because my dad was going to give it to my older brother but he bought a newer truck anyway. There was nothing wrong with the truck b4 it was parked.
And another thing, when i turn the key on and disconnect the forward most connector, " towards the firewall " and reconnect it, I dont hear anything because it has no power to it. If I run a 12V power supply to that solenoid, it makes a click noise and it also activates the high idle solenoid.
ya i was just throwin it out there it did sit through the winter and that would cause it but the dieel kleen should have made it good fuel if it was bad so that aint it
I do have 2 solenoids ( I think ), 2 wires. When I power the key on, the wire closest to radiator has power and makes a click noise. The wire closest to the fire wall does not have power to it. I think I read somewhere that both must have power. The 3rd wire is for the high idle solenoid.
It was parked because my dad was going to give it to my older brother but he bought a newer truck anyway. There was nothing wrong with the truck b4 it was parked.
And another thing, when i turn the key on and disconnect the forward most connector, " towards the firewall " and reconnect it, I dont hear anything because it has no power to it. If I run a 12V power supply to that solenoid, it makes a click noise and it also activates the high idle solenoid.
i think that second wire is the cold advance, but im not sure. Either way it should still start......
The FORWARD most connector is the FSS ... That means towards the FRONT of the truck, not closer to the firewall.
References are ALWAY done as setting in the drivers seat.
The rear most connector is the Cold Start Advance and is on the same circuit as the High Idle solenoid, that is why when you applied 12v+ to it the High Idle Solenoid activated.
The Cold Start circuit only has power when the key is on and the water temperature is below 112F. Look under the alternator, down by the thermostat housing you'll see the thermal switch that controls that circuit.
You say that you are getting fuel to the filter but how much? I would do a pressure and flow test. Remove the core from the shrader valve, (looks like a tire valve on the fuel filter). Place a fuel pressure gauge there. You should get 3-5 pounds while cranking if I remember right. If that checks out remove fuel pressure gauge and run a fuel hose there to a container and crank it. You should get 1/3 pint in 10 seconds of cranking. If either of these tests fail you need a lift pump. It looks like a regular fuel pump on a gasser.
You say that you are getting fuel to the filter but how much? I would do a pressure and flow test. Remove the core from the shrader valve, (looks like a tire valve on the fuel filter). Place a fuel pressure gauge there. You should get 3-5 pounds while cranking if I remember right. If that checks out remove fuel pressure gauge and run a fuel hose there to a container and crank it. You should get 1/3 pint in 10 seconds of cranking. If either of these tests fail you need a lift pump. It looks like a regular fuel pump on a gasser.
OK, I'll try that. Every time I push the shrader valve in, fuel squirts out but I will try the pressure guage while somebody is turning over the engine. I did disconnect the fuel line going to the injection pump and fed it into a container and cranked it over for a couple secounds and had like 1/3rd cup of fuel in the container then. It just seems like if there were any amound of fuel going to the injection pump that the pump itself would still be able to feed the injectors, ( in theory ), maybe not enough to run the engine but enough to see fuel at least getting to the injectors???
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