Lots of posts on 4x4 problems which get a few hits and disappear. Like to see a thread which lasts a little longer like the header and exhaust stud posts receive. Sometimes the best information gets post much later. Welcome any posts on hubs, transfer problems, engagement issues and related axle parts.

My truck is an 03. Sometime after that the hubs changed to what people are calling an improved version.

Currently the truck is getting new seals put in the front axles ($43.00 a piece and 9 hours labor by the book) in hopes to maintain the auto function. They are AUTO/Lock hubs which engage by vacuum when not manually turned. Seals and Orings have 74,000. Mechanic says they are good for 40,000 usually.

Second problem is one is seized up and needs a wrench or pliers to turn to MANUAL. Not stuck but hard to move. Tried soaking them but mechanic thinks metal to plastic is corroded inside and needs some sanding to free up. Also thinks my gear lube I tried was too thick.

Looking at Warn or Milemarkers if hubs wont free so the seal work might be a waste of time and money, but who can guess now?

 

you stated "Currently the truck is getting new seals put in the front axles ($43.00 a piece and 9 hours labor by the book) in hopes to maintain the auto function." which seal are you speaking of in the front axle?

 

Try doing this. LINK. I do this every year. We tend to answer the question that is asked.

 

The seal is a 4 inch round, hole in the middle, axle oil lip seal with rubber. Mechanic says its for the vacuum.?. Goes on the axle, the bearings come out to put it on. I questioned the need for it but he says its not for oil but vacuum. Not sure.

 

Thanks for link. Took it down almost that far last week but did soak the outside with wd-40 many times and some gear lube. The o ring I am replacing is inside the hub. Is there one on the outside under the handle? It is definately harder to turn than last week.

 

Bakon, I recently rebuilt my front axle ends (Both dust seals, bearings, hubs, etc..) and it took me about 9 hours. But this was my first time doing it, and I had to spend hours building tools and going to get parts. I thing you grossly overpaid for labor. Not trying to berate your mechanic, but that just seems like a long time for a fairly straightforward job. And thus more money out of your pocket.

Would there be a need of a "how to" post of this project? I would be willing to make one. I'm sure there might be others out on the web.

 

I lube the hub locks using graphite lube, the same kind one would use for Key cylinders and door locks. It comes in a spray can. WD stays oily and holds dirt and dust. The graphite is a dry lube after the fluid evaporates off.
Its freed up locks that I needed a wrench to turn, back to where my old bones could move them again.
I have manual hubs.

 

I have soaked mine in some ATF fluid and had success freeing a stuck dial on the esof hub.
I agree, the 9 hrs labour should be to replace the ball jnts and all the seals, and even then I could do it in 9 hrs, and I have never replaced ball joints before. I think your getting hosed on that part.
The other o rings, if you look on guzzles page under the needle bearing lube, you will see that he covers them, and are easy to get at and replace with new.

 

go to grizzles site and see what you find.

 

The 9 hours is the "book time". I helped out yesterday with one side. I agree 9 hours is too much for the job. Wheel and brakes come off. Dust cover, vacuum, speed sensor come off together. Old seal and axle end come out. Some cleaning of the rust off the lips and pound the new seal on the axle knuckle, grease up some and put back together. Sorry no pics but pretty straight foward. The O ring on the knuckle end also replaced. (I thought the o ring he was talking about was on the locking hub)

Truck was put on a lift before changing seal and vacuum leak was one problem. Manual locked and everything was fine. Auto lock was hit and miss and would fail if the steering wheel was turned side to side. I wasn't there but know from driving in the blizzard it was the same experience, locked great, auto hit and miss.

The Auto/Manual hub was also replaced on one side. Took old one apart down to diaphram and still really stuck. Think that rubber swell and outside corossion was biggest factors. $239 mechaincs cost. Other side was fine so I decided to keep the auto stock function instead of going with an aftermarket lock/free set up. My 4x4 time is some sandy beach 1 week a year and Pittsburgh snow storms.

As far a labor cost, I am not paying top dollar. Guy is very good and friend of family and now mine too. He did headers, air conditioning, fluid changes all very cheap. Give him a call if in Pittsburgh- Reese Automotive. Nothing but praise from me.

 

Before going through seals and everything else, did you (or your mechanic) verify that vacuum is even making it to the front hubs?

Pull the hoses, plug one, put a vacuum gauge on the other, and cycle the ESOF switch with the engine RUNNING. CHeck the vacuum gauge. Should see vacuum for around 40 seconds on the switch TO 4x4, and 20 seconds or so on the switch OUT of 4x4.

I've always had plans of writing up a nice technical FAQ and how-to on the vacuum hubs, having gone through the whole thing myself and helped out quite a few people here. Just time, just takes time...

 

we did not check for vacuum. It was an intermittent problem to start with and all other items on the truck are working fine. We will check the vacuum if the seals don't fix it.

I was told it is a common problem and wear out about 40,000 miles. I got 74,000 and it started acting up.

ANyone else change seals?

 

If your mechanic is saying "spend 9 hours of labor doing something" without checking a basic thing with a vacuum gauge, I would find another mechanic.

Seriously. Lots of problems with the locking hubs wind up being dry-rotted vacuum hoses or a bad vacuum solenoid which is easy to replace.

If there is no other reason to pull everything down to removing the wheel bearings and you're doing it just for a seal, checking the vacuum first is the sensible thing to do.

 

I guess he has seen it before. The vacuum lines look like new. Doesnt mean much but...

The intermittent part is a leak or no vacuum at times. I agree it could be what your saying. I also agree it could be the seals and trust his experience.

 

I was wrong. He did check for vacuum while checking it on lift in 4wd. They could hear the leak. My fault, I thought he picked the part from previous work.