I agree with Julie with replacing the coil first of all. Then go from there. The answer to your question on trying to get it started again was that it turned over fast like it always does just didn't start. I just pulled up to the garage and got out to open the door and while I was doing that it just died. I took one of the spark plugs out late last night and it is a champion #H10c which I don't know if this is the right plugs for this engine or not. If not what plug should I put in? I want to do the right thing and not have the engine blow up or crack because of the heat. I can put the mechanical gauge back on and drive it to see what it reads after another 10 miles also if that is what you think I should do but with Julie sending me the gauge and it was calibrated to read 170 while on the center mark and she knows it works properly but went it gets to the H to me it's to hot. I'm trying to answer all the questions that you all have replied to me with all at once. So far nothing has been said about checking the compresion on the engine like before was said. I don't think the gas has vapor lock the gas hose runs to far from the exhaust and the glass bowl on the pump was full of liquid gas. I know the therostats are good and opening because I tried them on the stove with hot water and they opened just like they should have. The radiator has a 4# cap on it new just bought so I know it is right too. There is no seepish around the head bolts. I haven't had the heads off since I got the truck I was going to check the tourque on them though.

 

H-10's are OK, that was "OEM", Autolite 216's are more reliable.

 

After replacing the coil, I'd put the mechanical gauge back on it, and leave it on until you get these temps down.

You can still run the wire to your electric gauge and use it too. Just leave it hooked up to the right sender, and put the mechanical gauge on it instead of the overheat sensor on the left side. Just make sure you have a connection from the right sender to the electric gauge. It should be interesting to have both gauges working and get a feel for the reading on the electric gauge. Yo can get a feel (a calibration of your own) of waht temp the engine really is when the electric gauge passes a certain mark - should be close.

Be sure to drive it with both gauges to get a good reading - but don't go to far from home!

Edit note: Got your note about hooking the wires on the coil. Be sure when yo hook up a coil that th epoints wire to the distributor (the one you said was white) is connected to the NEGATIVE post on the coil, and the wire coming from yor ignition switch (through the ceramic ballast resistor) is connected to the POSITIVE post of the coil. When you go to buy the new coil if they ask you if you want one with the resistor built into it tell them no you need one that does not have it. You can use the ceramic one for now, but if youever switch to an MSD system like Ross (and I ) have you don't want the resistance.

 

Well Julie I have been all over this place and most of the auto parts have never heard of a flame thrower coil. Auto Zone, Oreilys, santa Fe auto parts,Advanced auto parts even Napa in texas city. Napa did say they could might get one but it would be 6 to 12 days and the shipping cost. $57.37 plus shipping. So I think I will be better getting one off the internet and still pay shipping. We'll see?
Larry

 

Ok Julie the temp sending unit in the right head is the one with the two termanals on it so is that one the overheat unit. That is the head I was told to put it in from the manufacture and the place I got them from. So leave that one in the head and take other single termanal one out for the mechanical gauge to go. I'll have to take some of the wire hornesses loose to find out if the electrical gauge hooks to it first or second. I am pretty sure it hooks to the overheat unit first then jumps to the other side unit.
And I see a lot of flame thrower coils on the internet with some with oil and others with epocy so the one I want is not filled with oil right? I'm going to try and lode the pics up again so you can see the way the coil is hooked up now. To me it looks like I have two negative wires hooked up to the resister on different post. You'll see. Also since the temp sending units have to be grounded to the block should I ground the one that I take off? I took the one post off first and checked if the electrical gauge would move and it didn't so I hooked it back up and took the two wires off the other one and it did the same thing. I'm thinking I have to ground the wire that comes off the single unit to something in order to get the electrical gauge to work with key on. What do you think?
Thanks Julie

 

I finally got some pics up on the coil hookup that is now on the truck it's in a different post called coil pics. The way it is hooked up wrong it's a wonder it starts at all. I have two negative wires coming from the ceramic reducer one to the distributer and the other to the coil negative side with no power going through the reducer. stupid ain't I!!