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Ok I am going to ask a silly question. I know the common reason this warning light comes on is the EOT and ECT get out more than the 15 degrees, but will it come on if the EOT is lower? I noticed it came on after about 30 miles. I looked at the gauges and nothing out of wack, actually the EOT was slightly lower. The ECT was at its normal middle of the gauge as it has been for 8 months I have owned it. I have no problems with coolant puke, and nothing showing in the degas bottle to indicate problems with coolant contamination. Nor is there anything in the EGR system to indicate a leak. I have gauges on the truck and Exhaust temp runs about 600 and FP is 56, trans temp is running about 140 on a normal hot Florida day. Granted when I was driving it was 92 at least, but could the oil temp being lower than coolant trigger the light? I had always thought that EOT would be higher if there was a clog or failure of the oil cooler? I am going to try to get the codes today. Oh and one more thing, no limp mode when light is on, pulls like the animal it is.
The only mods on the 2006 F250 truck are 4" turbo back exhaust, and coolant filter, everything else is bone stock, no tunes or chips or perfromance mods of any type.
Ok I am going to ask a silly question. I know the common reason this warning light comes on is the EOT and ECT get out more than the 15 degrees, but will it come on if the EOT is lower?
Unless your truck has been reflashed to the VCXF9 strategy that came out last fall it won't throw a wrench light for exceeding the 15 degree EOT/ECT temp differential.
Ok here is the best I can come up with on the codes. I am new to AE so still learning.
I had a P012 power train code. It read Fuel air Meter, MIL pending, MIL previously set. and thats it. I am heading to Miami this afternoon and I am going to run with the pc hooked up and see whats happening when the little wrench shows up. I am going to run the EOT and ECT graph so I can watch the temps.
Well I ran the truck last night with my AE attached and guess you cant always believe gauges. the temp spread on the ECT and EOT was 28 degrees, EOT being the higher even though the gauge reads lower. It fluctuated as the outside temp went up, but as I was driving it sat at about 228 while the coolant hovered at 199-200. I have checked the coolant and oil for signs of either where they dont belong, but nothing and the coolant level remains correct and no signs of oil in the degas bottle or in the egr. I will assume that its time for the cooler. Is there a good write up on the site for step by step to replace the cooler? I am also assuming that this is the time for the EGR cooler too?
If you're not losing coolant or steaming out the tailpipe then IMHO there is no reason to replace the EGR cooler. The new DTC's are to let you know you're having problems with the oil cooler before the EGR cooler goes.
So I guess my next question is what are my alternatives? Do I go back with stock ford parts or is there someone that knows of a better oil cooler? Seems that if I just go back stock, I will be looking for the same repair again in the future? I dont put on enough miles to warrant the oil cooler relocation so is there a better "factory" type cooler available?
Ok, the more I read the more confused I become. Some recommend changing the EGR cooler along with the oil cooler and some not. Some recommend welding in a plug in the EGR cooler to block it off. Im confused, as to what to do. what is the purpose of the freeze plug welded and where is it welded? Also if welded will it throw a CEL? Sorry for all the question, just really new to the 6.0
thanks
A factory oil cooler will serve you fine. I would also install a coolant filter and flush the system really well while you have it apart to give the new oil cooler the best chance. While you are in there replacing the oil cooler you are at the EGR cooler so you might as well replace it too save yourself lots of work for later.
EGR delete/block VS Upgrade:
You can plug you EGR cooler. You would intall the plug at the rear of the cooler so no exhaust gas get through it. There are a few problems with this. If your cooler is bad it could still leak coolant into the intake and possible hydrolock the engine. Being you have a 06 you will throw a CEL if you don't have a tuner that turns the EGR system off. Last you, technically, can not pass emissions.
If you ugrade your EGR cooler it will be like a factory cooler but a stronger design so you won't have it fail again in 50K.
Ok I decided to go ahead and do the oil cooler and the bullet proof EGR cooler. I only want to do this repair one time, so since most of it will be apart, im going for it. Since this will be the most I have it disassembled, is there anything else (upgrades or mods) that I should do at the same time. I dont like being without my truck, so the goal is to not have it apart over and over.
I have only had the filter on for about 1000 miles. Funny that I never saw any sand or dirt when I flushed the cooling system before the filter install. Maybe its all in the cooler...lol
Unfortunately the sand all settles out after you shut off the truck. You typically wouldn't get much sand out in a flush. At least now you have a coolant filter so your next oil cooler should be protected...
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