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I filled the tank and no leaks, but..... my fuel gauge is not reading anything and the fuel light is on. The electrical is connected and everything else looks good.
Any ideas?
I think I am ok to drive until Saturday then I am going to lift the bed and make sure everything is hooked up tight.
Is your fuel gauge on E? The float probably got hung up on something, possibly the return line if its not bent just right (could have moved during install too). Find a bumpy road and see if it fixes your problem.
I will give the bumpy road a try in the next couple of days.... I did hit a couple of good bumps with no result thus far. I will have to try to get a really bumpy one.
Thanks for the input.
Another question.... what size star drive do I need to loosen the bed bolts?
I will give the bumpy road a try in the next couple of days.... I did hit a couple of good bumps with no result thus far. I will have to try to get a really bumpy one.
Thanks for the input.
Another question.... what size star drive do I need to loosen the bed bolts?
And possibly lots of PB blaster if you live where they use road salt. A few of the torx bits wouldn't hurt either. I got a bolt and a half out and snapped the bit, that was using an impact gun with a regular bit though....
The bed bolt heads are not Torx, they are "Torx Plus". This is very different, and is able to take much more torque. The size is TP45.
Don't expect to get the bolts out unless you are very lucky. Even with the right bit, the bolts are prone to stripping out. The bolts formed their own threads when installed, and take a lot of torque to break loose. I welded nuts on the heads and used a big impact wrench, since I was changing to a service body anyway.
I agree, removing the bed to get to the tank can leave you with a whole different set of headaches. I dropped the tank myself, but found a friend to help me strap it back up, 4 hands makes it a lot easier. You sure you hooked the wiring up correct, no bent pins or anything. Can't remember if there was a ground wire hooked up nearby or not.
At least while you are there this time, you can get rid of those nasty quick disco couplers on the fuel line.
The bed bolt heads are not Torx, they are "Torx Plus". This is very different, and is able to take much more torque. The size is TP45.
Don't expect to get the bolts out unless you are very lucky. Even with the right bit, the bolts are prone to stripping out. The bolts formed their own threads when installed, and take a lot of torque to break loose. I welded nuts on the heads and used a big impact wrench, since I was changing to a service body anyway.
good to know about the torx plus ill have to order that bit
i dont see what u mean by " the bolts formed there own threads when installed"
on my truck the bolts are threaded into a u clip and the treads are in the clip
I did the Hutch/Harpoon this last weekend, and those bed bolts were a pain. I used a pipe wrench on an impact driver with a torx 50. Well, 3 torx 50's. 3 bolts were easy, 3 were tough, 1 held on like a gorilla, but the last one made it plain; it was me or him. So I put a metal cutting disc on my circular saw and ground his head off. To remove the cage nut I used a hacksaw. At the stealership today I find the bolt is $22 and the cage nut $5. Not cheap, but I want it right. 3 different bolts on my shortbed, FWIW. I've read the bolts cut their own threads while being installed, like a screw going into a cheap plastic toy. I guess I'll find out when the bolt I ordered gets in. Maybe I can find a TP45 for installation...
I've dropped tanks on other cars, and sincerely hated it, so while lifting the bed is not easy I still prefer it. Especially working solo.