Lightly-used truck
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Joined: Mar 2008
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general rule of thumb:
Green coolant (regular stuff they've been using since the beginning of time)- recommended at 30,000
Dexcool (orange stuff in newer vehicles)- recommended at 80,000
not sure what the yellow stuff is but if the manuel gives it 100,000 i'd say wait a little longer, you shouldn't have to worry about anything on that truck until at least 30,000 (except for oil changes of course) might actually be more like 50,000 with the newer trucks
Green coolant (regular stuff they've been using since the beginning of time)- recommended at 30,000
Dexcool (orange stuff in newer vehicles)- recommended at 80,000
not sure what the yellow stuff is but if the manuel gives it 100,000 i'd say wait a little longer, you shouldn't have to worry about anything on that truck until at least 30,000 (except for oil changes of course) might actually be more like 50,000 with the newer trucks
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 1,293
Likes: 18
general rule of thumb:
Green coolant (regular stuff they've been using since the beginning of time)- recommended at 30,000
Dexcool (orange stuff in newer vehicles)- recommended at 80,000
not sure what the yellow stuff is but if the manuel gives it 100,000 i'd say wait a little longer, you shouldn't have to worry about anything on that truck until at least 30,000 (except for oil changes of course) might actually be more like 50,000 with the newer trucks
Green coolant (regular stuff they've been using since the beginning of time)- recommended at 30,000
Dexcool (orange stuff in newer vehicles)- recommended at 80,000
not sure what the yellow stuff is but if the manuel gives it 100,000 i'd say wait a little longer, you shouldn't have to worry about anything on that truck until at least 30,000 (except for oil changes of course) might actually be more like 50,000 with the newer trucks
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Joined: Jan 2008
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From: Maine, Virginia
8000 miles and your ready to do your 5th oil change? The oil hasn't even broke in before you dumping it. This is really helping your engine but it's costing you plenty.
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From: St. Peter
Unless you have been doing alot of idling, you probably changed your oil a little more than need be. But oh well, better than the other way around.
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jan 2007
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I change the oil about once a year, except I ran the original oil six months. Any and every authority on oil/engine life lists 12 months as the absolute maximum before changing in situations like mine. It's not about mileage - it's about the oil picking up moisture that forms in the crankcase, forming acidic sulphur compounds that attack bearings. It's true that the oil I dump looks good enough to put back in, but it's cheap insurance - $20/year counting the filter. BTW, oil can't 'break in' - it's never better than the first day you change it. The 36 month warranty expired Jan. 2, and the only time the truck went back to the dealer was for the first oil change which was free. I had read so much about stuck filters from the factory that I gladly let them do the first change! The only thing bothering me on it is the crunchy shifting.
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Joined: Feb 2003
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1saxman,
I agree with your oil change frequency. I do the same on my tractor for the same reasons you stated. Your low mileage equates to my low hours, when it comes to the motor oil. I schedule for the spring before the summer heat although any seasonal change is a good time line.
The cooling fluid should outlast your usage of the truck at current level. Keep an eye on the freeze point and after a few more years I would suggest some additives for corrosion providing the freeze point measures to your acceptable tolerances.
The transmission change to the purple, if it gives you a sense of accomplishment then go ahead and do it. IMO, I do not think that you have used it enough to even wear off any burrs on the synchronizers, and the difference in the "notchy/crunchy" description will be minimal if even noticeable.
I agree with your oil change frequency. I do the same on my tractor for the same reasons you stated. Your low mileage equates to my low hours, when it comes to the motor oil. I schedule for the spring before the summer heat although any seasonal change is a good time line.
The cooling fluid should outlast your usage of the truck at current level. Keep an eye on the freeze point and after a few more years I would suggest some additives for corrosion providing the freeze point measures to your acceptable tolerances.
The transmission change to the purple, if it gives you a sense of accomplishment then go ahead and do it. IMO, I do not think that you have used it enough to even wear off any burrs on the synchronizers, and the difference in the "notchy/crunchy" description will be minimal if even noticeable.
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jan 2007
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Appreciate the input, and the thought of it not being 'worn in' has crossed my mind. Smoother, easier shifting has been reported in other manual applications with RP so it'll be worth a try. It's definitely the synchronizers because I can shift smooth by double-clutching or just 'double-tapping' the synchros. I've had several manual cars and trucks, and the clutching on this one has taken some time to get used-to. It will tend to 'chatter', particularly in reverse, but I've learned to go ahead and let the clutch out faster but without jerking. I'm one of these guys that likes to constantly practice smooth shifting/RPM matching, although I haven't done much clutchless shifting in the new Ford. I do a lot of double-clutching on downshifts, and generally the Mazda 5-speed has been great and very drivable. The truck drives and handles like a compact, the brakes are fantastic and the ride is taut and smooth - really glad we found each other!
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