First Excursion - several issues inside
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Senior User
Joined: Jul 2002
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From: TN
First Excursion - several issues inside
Picked up a 2000 V10 excursion today, but I need to sort a few things out.
1. Axle ratio - not a clue. Door jamb has a blank space where the axle code *should* be, and I can't decipher the code on the tag off the rear diff cover, passenger side. Any help?
2. Previous owner installed a lift - no clue brand or height, but the rear sags about 1.5-2" lower than the front. Rear is currently lifted with the stock 2.5" block, and a 4" tapered block stacked... which I do not like. I assume this means the front is a 5.5-6" lift - what is the preferred method to bring this level and get rid of the stacked blocks? Keep in mind, I'm cheap - but more than happy to fab something up to work.
3. Along with that front lift install, it seems they neglected to reinstall the front sway bar, and I'd really like to get one back on there. Do aftermarket (Helwig for example) bars come with the axle brackets, or just bars and bushings? Or would it be better to just locate a stock sway bar from a parts yard to get the brackets and end links?
That should be enough for now, thanks for any replies.
1. Axle ratio - not a clue. Door jamb has a blank space where the axle code *should* be, and I can't decipher the code on the tag off the rear diff cover, passenger side. Any help?
2. Previous owner installed a lift - no clue brand or height, but the rear sags about 1.5-2" lower than the front. Rear is currently lifted with the stock 2.5" block, and a 4" tapered block stacked... which I do not like. I assume this means the front is a 5.5-6" lift - what is the preferred method to bring this level and get rid of the stacked blocks? Keep in mind, I'm cheap - but more than happy to fab something up to work.
3. Along with that front lift install, it seems they neglected to reinstall the front sway bar, and I'd really like to get one back on there. Do aftermarket (Helwig for example) bars come with the axle brackets, or just bars and bushings? Or would it be better to just locate a stock sway bar from a parts yard to get the brackets and end links?
That should be enough for now, thanks for any replies.
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Joined: Sep 2003
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From: Houston, Texas
1. If at 65 mph you're at 1900rpms, you have 3.73 gears, any higher and you should have 4.30 gears unless the PO regeared for the tires.
2. If it were me, I would just scrap the springs and start over so I know it's done correctly. With a 4x4 you have options such as the V&B code spring swap done by Stewart_H and many others. This spring swap eliminates the wander that the 4wd trucks are famous for. This is a relatively cost effective solution as opposed to going with a full lift kit.
3. I'd check a few junkyard's and pick a part's first...but if that doesn't pan out, I'd consider going to dealer for the full setup as a last resort...
Btw, what size tires are on there?
2. If it were me, I would just scrap the springs and start over so I know it's done correctly. With a 4x4 you have options such as the V&B code spring swap done by Stewart_H and many others. This spring swap eliminates the wander that the 4wd trucks are famous for. This is a relatively cost effective solution as opposed to going with a full lift kit.
3. I'd check a few junkyard's and pick a part's first...but if that doesn't pan out, I'd consider going to dealer for the full setup as a last resort...
Btw, what size tires are on there?
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Currently has 285/75-16's on stock rims, probably going to go to some 315/70-17's and a little wider rims for some better width/stance.
I found Superlift rear 5" springs for about $350 shipped, seems like the easiest choice to get the rear levelled up and I can play with spacers or blocks to get it right from there.
I am new to the V/B spring swaps - I will read up more on it, thanks.
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From: TN
Covers don't look like they have been messed with, but I'm thinking it feels like 4.30's - pulls too good, but I will check RPM's in the morning. Just found it odd that the door sticker is blank under the axle spot... really odd.
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From: Houston, Texas
That much lift and 285s...obviously an unfinished project by the PO.
You can actually do what I did and run 315/75/16s on the stock rims. I didn't go to a different rim much less anything bigger becuase of the strain it puts on the hubs afterawhile. 3 years and tons-o-miles later and I haven't had a problem with the alignment, tires wearing funny, or anything.
You can actually do what I did and run 315/75/16s on the stock rims. I didn't go to a different rim much less anything bigger becuase of the strain it puts on the hubs afterawhile. 3 years and tons-o-miles later and I haven't had a problem with the alignment, tires wearing funny, or anything.
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my truck has 4.30s and is a 2000 and the axle ratio spot is also blank . Tape a string to the drive shaft and move the truck 1 full tire revolution and count the wraps more than 4 = 4.30 less than 4 =3.73 IF the gears haven't been changed.
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Thread Starter
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Senior User
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From: TN
That much lift and 285s...obviously an unfinished project by the PO.
You can actually do what I did and run 315/75/16s on the stock rims. I didn't go to a different rim much less anything bigger becuase of the strain it puts on the hubs afterawhile. 3 years and tons-o-miles later and I haven't had a problem with the alignment, tires wearing funny, or anything.
You can actually do what I did and run 315/75/16s on the stock rims. I didn't go to a different rim much less anything bigger becuase of the strain it puts on the hubs afterawhile. 3 years and tons-o-miles later and I haven't had a problem with the alignment, tires wearing funny, or anything.
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Like Toreador_Diesel said, be careful with the aftermarket wheels/offset. It will put more strain on your front end. If you are looking for the custom look of aftermarket wheels, just make sure to match up the offset to the stock wheel's offset.
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Already found a complete take-off stock F250 suspension w/ 55k miles for $250 locally, going to pick it up tomorrow. If I understand correctly, this will get me approx. 2-2.5" of lift, right? I think this will be the best route for us, then put some 315's on there on the stock rims.
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Also just ordered a Hellwig front sway bar for $190 shipped. About 2x what I could have gotten a used stocker shipped to me for, but I am hoping the upgraded bar and fact that it comes with new bushings will help.
Instructions look like it comes with everything but bolts and end links - and the suspension I am picking up tonight comes with end links so that should get me there without too much trouble except for sourcing some bolts.
I am hoping this gets me enough room to put some 35's/315's on there?
Instructions look like it comes with everything but bolts and end links - and the suspension I am picking up tonight comes with end links so that should get me there without too much trouble except for sourcing some bolts.
I am hoping this gets me enough room to put some 35's/315's on there?
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From: TN
Perfect.
Honestly if it were up to me I'd leave the 6" lift under it and move up to some 37's... but since the wife is gonna DD it, and has to get a a 9, 7, and 1 year old into the back - practicality alters my plans
Honestly if it were up to me I'd leave the 6" lift under it and move up to some 37's... but since the wife is gonna DD it, and has to get a a 9, 7, and 1 year old into the back - practicality alters my plans
