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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

Truck won't start

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Old Jun 12, 2010 | 10:13 AM
  #1  
84F150driver's Avatar
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Truck won't start

I have an 84 f150 4.9L 6 cylinder, 4 speed manual transmission. The truck was having trouble starting, it would only start intermittantly and often after several tries. When it wouldn't start, there would be no clicking or anything. I have lights and the battery s new. I have replaced the starter relay, ignition lock cylinder, and ignition switch. The plugs, wires and starter are relatively new with less than 100 mles on them. I have checked the connection of all the wires and they all appear to be tight. I was told I needed to replace the neutral safety switch. I couldn't figure out where it went and called Ford, and they told me I do not have a neutral safety switch. I found a diagram on line that showed it went on the transmission, and found a place for it, but there is no pig tail or wiring harness for it. However, if it had been the neutral safety switch all along, would it have ever started? Also, I can not start the truck bypassing the clutch, so I'm not confident it is the neutral safety switch. Any suggestions or help would be greatly appreciated.
 
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Old Jun 12, 2010 | 03:15 PM
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Wicked Endings
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Sounds like the same exact problem I had.


And yes, it is the Neutral Safety Switch.

Without the switch, your truck will start... sometimes...

What chooses when it starts or not? I've no clue.
But it is your Neutral Safety Switch.
 
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Old Jun 12, 2010 | 04:21 PM
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Nuetral safety switch is used with automatic transmissions. Try jumping from Bat+ to the small terminal on the solenoid (Take it out of gear first)
 
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Old Jun 12, 2010 | 05:35 PM
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On a manual transmission I believe they call the clutch switch a Neutral Safety Switch, I have always referred to them as a Neutral Safety Switch... I could be wrong!

What it's called is unimportant...

My suggestion would be to apply a test light to the Neutral Safety Switch (Clutch Switch) wire from the Ignition switch and see if you get power there when key is in start position.

Then test at the Solenoids small wire on the 'S' terminal.

Also, Just because you have replaced these items do no assume they are good, I have seen many parts straight out of the box be junk!

Did you adjust the new ignition switch correctly??

IIRC there was someone on here recently that was in the almost same exact boat as you, threw all kinds of money at new parts and it turned out to be exactly what he was told and first replaced ... The solenoid, he went through several solenoids before he got one that worked.

Blame American greed for cheap china products.

As always, Diagnostics before Dollars!

-Enjoy
fh : )_~
 
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Old Jun 12, 2010 | 07:43 PM
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Thanks for all the suggestions. I located the clutch switch and removed it and tried to clean it up a bit. Went to the auto parts store and was told they don't carry them. The guy there told me to clip the two wires going in to the switch and tape them off together and that would bypass the switch and let me know if that was the problem. I did that and am in the same position I was in before, only now I have two cut wires taped together. Both wires are red/lt blue and from the wiring diagram, it appears they go to the ignition switch and starter relay. I did adjust the ignition switch when I installed it. I've tried jumping it off the solenoid with no luck (put a new solenoid on today too). I'm going to try to test the wires next as you suggested Festus.
 
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Old Jun 13, 2010 | 08:27 AM
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If you jump power to the correct terminal on the solenoid and get nothing (no click) then you either have a bad solenoid, bad solenoid ground (grounds through fender) or you are not getting power to the big terminal on the solenoid(bad bat, bat cable or connection)
 
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Old Jun 13, 2010 | 08:56 AM
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Festus Hagen
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DO NOT CLIP the wires ... What an IDJIOT at the part store for suggesting that, I would have eaten him for lunch if I heard him tell you that, totally assnine and very unprofessional!

Make a jumper wire, that way it can be properly rehooked in the future!

[edit]

Guess I didn't read it in time you have already done it ... NEVER NEVER listen to ANYONE that tells you to HACK!!!! They are IDJIOTS!
Now you have a HACKED harness and still in the same boat ... What a shame there are idiots like that working in parts stores!

Bashby is correct to a point, If you jumped 12v+ to the small 'S' terminal on the solenoid and you got no click, the solenoid is either not grounded or bad PERIOD!
It does not need power to the input terminal (battery terminal) to operate the solenoid, just ground and 12v+ to the 'S' terminal.

[/edit]


-Enjoy
fh : )_~
 
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Old Jun 13, 2010 | 11:07 AM
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Wicked Endings
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When I bought my truck, those wires were like that. The two red with light blue stripes were taped together.

My truck wouldn't start because of it.


I hooked them back up, and my truck started right up.
 
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Old Jun 13, 2010 | 11:14 AM
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Correct Festus, My post sounds like you need the big cables hooked to the solenoid to make it engage (click), you dont.
 
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Old Jun 14, 2010 | 08:16 PM
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Thanks again for everyone's help. Since I unfortunately took the guys advice at the parts store and cut the wires to the clutch switch, I just went back and made sure I had them connected together good, put on solenoid #6, and adjusted the ignition switch again, and voila, it started. I've ordered a new harness and clutch switch so I can get it fixed properly, but for now, it starts. Next up, rebuild the carburetor. It has a major vacuum leak somewhere. I've replaced all the vacuum lines, gaskets, and PCV valve, so am thinking the carb might need a rebuild. Thanks again everyone. This is my first project vehicle, I'm learning as I go.
 
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Old Jun 14, 2010 | 09:14 PM
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Awesome ...

Dang china made parts.

-Enjoy
fh : )_~
 
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