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My 03 had same rust. And some on the rear wheel wells. The rear looked to have come from the inside out. Paint bubbled for a while first, then broke open like a big rust zit.
patched, painted and covered with fender flares so the entire bed would not need painted to match. Doors will be a continuing problem in salt throwing areas. Just a price to us 4x4 owners to help the mini vans get to the mall. We had a blizzard this year which kept the mini vans home for a few days. Like truck heaven. everything covered in white and nobody out obn the road.
My wife's FX4 had the same rust across the bottom of the doors. A body shop sand blasted and painted them and within 7 months the bubbling paint was back, plus the sand got up inside the door and scratched the windows. The problem is that the outside door panel where it folds under holds water in that seam. Every time I change her oil I shoot WD40 into the drain holes and it really slowed it down. On my F-250 I took off the door panels and slopped a mixture of axle grease and used motor oil about half way up the doors, also to the inside of the rocker panels and over the rear wheel wells. You have to do this at least once a year and it is messy but no rust on my 2004 250.
There are a number of homemade rustproofing compounds you can make/use.
One I have used is comprised of paraffin, ATF and turpentine. You heat it slightly before applying. When I was a kid in Michigan, we mixed 90wt gear oil and a small amount of gasoline and poured it into the doors, fenders and tailgate of our '72 Ford Country Sedan. The gasoline evaporates and leaves a 90wt film behind, which is kept in place by dust, etc. After you treat the doors, shut them on pieces of newspaper to absorb the drips, and wipe off the door bottoms the next day. Works like a champ. (You may use a less smelly solvent than gasoline, if you like.)
I would argue that all the sandblasting, scraping, priming, and painting will not last more than 1 year unless you later entomb the area in grease or a grease/oil rustproofing. The moment a paint coating fails (cracks) you have no protection underneath. Folded seams and enclosed areas demand this. Never use tar or spray-tar compounds, and they form a shell that traps rust and dirt and makes things worse. Spray galv/zinc would be good for a larger rusty area.
Any rustproofing efforts should be closely examined yearly to see where more is needed.
I have heard good and bad about the electonic devices for rust, most have said they are just snake oil. I have the same problem starting on my truck and want to keep the wheel arches from rusting. Looking at the "rust encapsulator" from eastwood. Any thoughts?
I have a 2001 F350, live in Detroit, Mi. run the counteract electronic rust preventive system. I still have my original doors and bed. After 11 years I am just getting some paint flaking on the bed wheel wells and back of the cab lower corner, take it for what it's worth but my next truck will have another counteract unit installed.
My 03 had same rust. And some on the rear wheel wells. The rear looked to have come from the inside out. Paint bubbled for a while first, then broke open like a big rust zit.
patched, painted and covered with fender flares so the entire bed would not need painted to match. Doors will be a continuing problem in salt throwing areas. Just a price to us 4x4 owners to help the mini vans get to the mall. We had a blizzard this year which kept the mini vans home for a few days. Like truck heaven. everything covered in white and nobody out obn the road.
I had the same problem at first, I took it in to a friend he recommened putting all new quarter panels on it. So I went for it, he completley removed the bed, grinded everything down and rhino-lined the entire underside of the bed including the wheel wells which is where my problem mainly was. I hate seeing rust on my truck... I think Ford SHOULD do a much better job at protecting this from happening from the factory.
Sanded, zinc cold galvanizing paint, anti-rust paint, greased the whole thing, silicone between the plastic and metal to prevent scratching the paint again.
Welcome to the forum!
What you will need to do is address the rust first. Sand it all off using 80 grit sandpaper. A Roloc will work nice too, if you have an angle grinder. Once all of the rust is off, you will need to spray a DTM (Direct To Metal) primer followed by an epoxy primer, sand with 180g and then 320 grit, then base and clear. You will not have to spray base on the entire panel but will need to reclear the entire panel as clear coat cannot be properly blended (i.e. if the rust were on the lower part of the door, you would need to rebase the entire door, only the repaired area, but you will need to scuff the entire door with 320 grit and reclear the entire panel). Good luck with it!
Clear can be properly blended, but thats for another day and time....
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