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Hi, just finished rebuilding my C6, but something is still off. I have great engagement in all 3 speeds when I shift manually from the column. Better than before even when my transmission was good, drops right into gear and takes off. When in drive though (supposed to still be full auto), I am stuck in 3rd gear. The setup actually isn't horrible, I have 1 and 2 on the column, and D=3, but, something is obviously wrong, and since I don't know what it is, I can't just leave it like that and hope that D always stays 3. So what might be my problem? Is this a governer issue, valve body, vac modulator?
I'm hoping somebody comes on and tells me that this is some kind of classic problem, but whtever input you have helps.
Thanks, AleX
Aghhhh, I just went through the whole process of puting the t case back in and all that, I'd hate to have to go through that again, and I dissassembled and cleaned the governor just like everything else, but I guess it's possible something still could be wrong.
Any way that I can tell or at least get some indication whether it's the gov or valve body?
Thanks, AleX
You can try downshifting once the vehicle is underway.
Take it up to 30 or so then pull the lever into 2nd.
Sometimes you will get lucky.
This may take several tries.
O no that's exactly what I've been doing. That's why this situation is actually kind of workable. I seem to be able to shift up and down anytime I want, at any speed, and for the time being at least, D is stuck in 3rd, so I can shift through the whole range very well.
What does that mean though? And what would shifting down into 2 around 30 do for me, or show me?
Ahhhh OK, so if it's a governor problem then that means that one of the gov valves is stuck in it's bore? I find that really hard to believe, I was so careful with all the valves, and the gov especially is such a small thing, it was really straightforward to keep it and the baseplate clean while I assembled it all, but OK, I'll look into it.
If it's valve body, what would be wrong there?
AleX
Yes I used a gasket, and yes all the holes lined up. I also installed a shift kit when I rebuilt it all, it included a few heavier springs, an elimination of what I think was the 2-3 check ball, and one thing that I thought was very strange, one valve near the corner of the VB, a very small one, on the side with the big retainer plate, was supposed to have a plug placed on top of it, so as to completely immobilize it.
What do you think of all of that? I did weeks of research and talked to tons of people about what kit to buy before, but as far as the instructions in the kit, I just went right along word for word. Should I not have been so trusting, could some of these mods be messing me up?
AleX
If you have the 2-3 shift valve installed incorrectly it will start off in 3rd.
The small valve called the cutback valve can be pinned to maintain maximum line pressure, its ok to do this, I have done this many times. If you have the valve body off I can show you how to air check it to see if the shift valves move.,
If your valve body is good it will have to be in the governor, it is possible to be miss assembled.
Well that's very interesting. The valve I pinned with the plug provided is the servo modulator valve. And the kit told me to install a check ball in the bore of the cutback vlave, before puting the cutback vlave in.
I know what you mean about it being possible to misassemble the governor, I actually did it that way at first, but then fixed it right away.
What do you think of the servo modulator valve being immobilized though?
AleX
What do you think of the servo modulator valve being immobilized though?
AleX
The servo modulator valve controls oil apply for the servo (2nd gear). immobilizing the valve shouldn't cause any problems, it should make the 1-2 shift shorter.
Shift kits usually pin it with a plug and blocks the cut back valve with a ball.
I did the 2-3 downshift trick for a few days, tried it out in regular old drive yesterday, and it's working great!
Thanks for all the info everybody, AleX
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