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MY AC is blowing hot air. I took it to a local national car shop to have line AC checked for leaks. They pumped down the lines and they held a vacuum, no leak. They told me that the compressor clutch is not engaging. I checked a couple fuses and a diode and all looks good. Does anyone know how to test if its just the clutch or the whole compressor?
Start your truck and turn on your AC and tap the center of your AC Clutch with a wooden dowal (BE VERY CAREFUL IF THE CLUTCH INGAGES THINGS WILL START TO TURN) if it ingages its your clutch. Also check the electrical plug on the back of the clutch. Good luck
The AC clutch is not engaging. If I push in the front side of the clutch it will start turning. I pulled off the two pin connector off of the clutch and read the voltage. With the AC off the voltage is 0 vdc. When I turn the AC ON the voltage on the connector is 11 vdc. Based on the presence of the voltage I'm assuming that a solenoid in the clutch assembly is bad. Can I remove the clutch by removing the small bolt on the front of the clutch? I consider myself to be moderately capable on repairs. Am I possibly getting in over my head?
I believe 11 volts is on the low side to pull the clutch in. Try running temporary wires directly from your battery to see if the clutch engages. If it engages troubleshoot to find the reason for the low voltage.
Sounds like the pressure sensor. This sensor detects with there is ample R134A pressure in the system, and will not allow the compressor to engage if it does not detect enough pressure.
BTW, seriously dude... what is with you AC guys??? There were a good four or five threads with somebody else posting about their AC not working on page 1 alone. What are you all doing to the AC system on these trucks, and why are you doing it all at once??? lol.
Man, my truck must be rare. Not only is it a Centennial Edition, but has working AC to boot!
Troubleshooting the low voltage problem is easier said than done since it daisy chains thru several switches including the low pressure switch and the anti icing switch. First I would make sure the clutch air gap is within spec before troubleshooting the voltage. I had one that I had to install a relay in to use 12 volts from the battery. I wired the relay to use the low 11 volts as the trigger signal to pick up the relay coil. Doing it that way I was able to get full battery voltage to the clutch without bypassing anything in the original circuit. That Radio Shack relay worked for years without another problem and was a cheap fix.