fuel tank vent mod redo
#1
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Orange, Vermont
Posts: 94,275
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fuel tank vent mod redo
I redid my front tank vent mod. The first time I had a leak at the rollover tank grommet and had a tire blow and clean off the connection at the filler neck. I dropped the tank. I bought a 2" long 3/4"diameter threaded pipe and 2 electrical box nuts.
I had to take my knife and trim some of the grommet to make it thinner so I could get enough threads to get the bottom nut to start. The grommet will be sandwiched between the nut when installed in tank.
Then I tightened the nuts and screwed on the 90 elbow and attached my hose.
I had to put a new 90 in the filler neck and a coupler and short hose to make up for the section that was destroyed. I still had the small vent hose so I took a 3/8" brass coupler shortened one side, drilled a small hole in the rubber hose and connected the vent hose to it.
I also siliconed around it
Here it is installed. I ran the vent hose end up into the fender, there is a protected cavity up there. Picture is looking up at it.
Closer view
I have filled up a couple of times and it has sat full for a few days and haven't noticed any leaks. Took about 3 minutes to fill it with over 17 gallons of fuel. This was definitely with a large truck high volume pump.
Need to drain the rear tank to do that one next.
I had to take my knife and trim some of the grommet to make it thinner so I could get enough threads to get the bottom nut to start. The grommet will be sandwiched between the nut when installed in tank.
Then I tightened the nuts and screwed on the 90 elbow and attached my hose.
I had to put a new 90 in the filler neck and a coupler and short hose to make up for the section that was destroyed. I still had the small vent hose so I took a 3/8" brass coupler shortened one side, drilled a small hole in the rubber hose and connected the vent hose to it.
I also siliconed around it
Here it is installed. I ran the vent hose end up into the fender, there is a protected cavity up there. Picture is looking up at it.
Closer view
I have filled up a couple of times and it has sat full for a few days and haven't noticed any leaks. Took about 3 minutes to fill it with over 17 gallons of fuel. This was definitely with a large truck high volume pump.
Need to drain the rear tank to do that one next.
#7
Jim,
questions:
Did you eliminated the roll over valve?.
What did you use to seal the 3/8" brass coupler?
Comment:
I think that there is not enougth room between the REAR tank and the bed to install that "new" 90* angle, because is taller than the stock roll over valve, I think you are going to down a little the tank with some kind of shims to make the needed room there.
questions:
Did you eliminated the roll over valve?.
What did you use to seal the 3/8" brass coupler?
Comment:
I think that there is not enougth room between the REAR tank and the bed to install that "new" 90* angle, because is taller than the stock roll over valve, I think you are going to down a little the tank with some kind of shims to make the needed room there.
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#8
#9
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Orange, Vermont
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I had to eliminate because when the tire blew there was a 3 foot piece of rubber tread swinging around in there like a sledge hammer that cleaned it out and lost it somewhere on the interstate. If you find the thread I did the first time you can see where it was in the pictures. I plan on keeping it shiny side up anyways.
The brass barb was a fairly tight fit anyways but I used some black silicone and gooped it around it.
Thanks for the heads up on the potential rear tank problem. Maybe I can use a 1" threaded nipple and run the nuts on from both ends (I need to be careful on wording or I will have to rate this post as XXX ) to get a lower profile.
The brass barb was a fairly tight fit anyways but I used some black silicone and gooped it around it.
Thanks for the heads up on the potential rear tank problem. Maybe I can use a 1" threaded nipple and run the nuts on from both ends (I need to be careful on wording or I will have to rate this post as XXX ) to get a lower profile.
#11
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Orange, Vermont
Posts: 94,275
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here is the link to my first try
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...ho-better.html
when the tire blew it only left the main vent hose and 3/8" vent hose, everything else was cleaned off.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...ho-better.html
when the tire blew it only left the main vent hose and 3/8" vent hose, everything else was cleaned off.
#12
I had to eliminate because when the tire blew there was a 3 foot piece of rubber tread swinging around in there like a sledge hammer that cleaned it out and lost it somewhere on the interstate. If you find the thread I did the first time you can see where it was in the pictures. I plan on keeping it shiny side up anyways.
Yeap I remember your first thread, that why asked. and yes I also plan to keep it side up.
The brass barb was a fairly tight fit anyways but I used some black silicone and gooped it around it.
I think mine is firmer than yours IMHO
Thanks for the heads up on the potential rear tank problem. Maybe I can use a 1" threaded nipple and run the nuts on from both ends (I need to be careful on wording or I will have to rate this post as XXX ) to get a lower profile.
Yes I think so LOL
Yeap I remember your first thread, that why asked. and yes I also plan to keep it side up.
The brass barb was a fairly tight fit anyways but I used some black silicone and gooped it around it.
I think mine is firmer than yours IMHO
Thanks for the heads up on the potential rear tank problem. Maybe I can use a 1" threaded nipple and run the nuts on from both ends (I need to be careful on wording or I will have to rate this post as XXX ) to get a lower profile.
Yes I think so LOL
My answers in blue.
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