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I redid my front tank vent mod. The first time I had a leak at the rollover tank grommet and had a tire blow and clean off the connection at the filler neck. I dropped the tank. I bought a 2" long 3/4"diameter threaded pipe and 2 electrical box nuts.
I had to take my knife and trim some of the grommet to make it thinner so I could get enough threads to get the bottom nut to start. The grommet will be sandwiched between the nut when installed in tank.
Then I tightened the nuts and screwed on the 90 elbow and attached my hose.
I had to put a new 90 in the filler neck and a coupler and short hose to make up for the section that was destroyed. I still had the small vent hose so I took a 3/8" brass coupler shortened one side, drilled a small hole in the rubber hose and connected the vent hose to it.
I also siliconed around it
Here it is installed. I ran the vent hose end up into the fender, there is a protected cavity up there. Picture is looking up at it.
Closer view
I have filled up a couple of times and it has sat full for a few days and haven't noticed any leaks. Took about 3 minutes to fill it with over 17 gallons of fuel. This was definitely with a large truck high volume pump.
Need to drain the rear tank to do that one next.
Why would they need to? Fuel isn't pushed by pressure. Diesel does turn to vapor as easily as gas but it will some. May not be needed but I believe the rollover vent when upright.
Jim,
questions:
Did you eliminated the roll over valve?.
What did you use to seal the 3/8" brass coupler?
Comment:
I think that there is not enougth room between the REAR tank and the bed to install that "new" 90* angle, because is taller than the stock roll over valve, I think you are going to down a little the tank with some kind of shims to make the needed room there.
BTW I drilled the upper brass fiting (close to the filler neck) and screw the smaller brass fitting and ran the vent hose end up into the fender, where there is a protected cavity up as you mentioned, look here:
I had to eliminate because when the tire blew there was a 3 foot piece of rubber tread swinging around in there like a sledge hammer that cleaned it out and lost it somewhere on the interstate. If you find the thread I did the first time you can see where it was in the pictures. I plan on keeping it shiny side up anyways.
The brass barb was a fairly tight fit anyways but I used some black silicone and gooped it around it.
Thanks for the heads up on the potential rear tank problem. Maybe I can use a 1" threaded nipple and run the nuts on from both ends (I need to be careful on wording or I will have to rate this post as XXX ) to get a lower profile.
I had to eliminate because when the tire blew there was a 3 foot piece of rubber tread swinging around in there like a sledge hammer that cleaned it out and lost it somewhere on the interstate. If you find the thread I did the first time you can see where it was in the pictures. I plan on keeping it shiny side up anyways.
Yeap I remember your first thread, that why asked. and yes I also plan to keep it side up.
The brass barb was a fairly tight fit anyways but I used some black silicone and gooped it around it.
I think mine is firmer than yours IMHO
Thanks for the heads up on the potential rear tank problem. Maybe I can use a 1" threaded nipple and run the nuts on from both ends (I need to be careful on wording or I will have to rate this post as XXX ) to get a lower profile.
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