In the last 3 months I've learned so much that I thought I would ad a couple coolant filter instal tips I just figured out.

* brass fittings into aluminium housing.
What a nerve wrenching experience. How tight should they be? First thread each fitting in dry (no plumbers tape). They don't go in as far as you think they should- maybe 3-4 full turns. If you put the housing into your vice (use a thick rag to avoid scratching) with filter screwed on tight then you can do all 4 fairly easily.
Unscrew and clean threads carefully.
Put on 3-4 full turns of the plumbers tape. Re- install.
How tight???? I used a boxed end wrench about 7" long and ended up going around the 4 fittings 'feeling' each until I got a real idea of what the feel was between them.
No leaks from any but if you do you will not be able to easily tighten them in the truck- so beware
* bracket to rad support.
Yes it is bugger to get in there.
Lift up the plastic rad dust shields (push and pull and see) and you can get your hand in behind.
I used a pair of long needle-nose to hold the big flat washer in place; then slipped on my own lock washer (didn't have one in my kit); then taped the nut to one side of a 14m box end; then spin the bolt.
Also losen my battery cable and twisted to get more clearance for the bracket.
*take your time.
Installed my bracket and did the 4 fittings the night before.
1.5 hours; the actual install of housing and line 1.25 hours.
I like to take my time because 1 slip and the whole thing can be messed up.
* drain a gallon.
It may not be necessary if you are fast but I like to go slow the first time and after draining a gallon from the rad drain I only lost about a cup from the line coming from the heater.
Event though I know better (playing with stuff for 30 years) I over tightened the plastic drain petock- made crack; could be the rad
Not leaking - so pray for me. If it leaks I'll epoxy the whole darn thing

*line placement
Top line over fan housing easy. Just look twice before you cut is the only caution. There is about 12-14" left over after the job so go long and cut twice if you need to.
Heater line (left side) is different animal.
What a pian. Do yourself a favour and remove the top intercooler aluminum pipe. Just loosen the top clamp and pull it out and up and over to rest on the alternator.
Now you can see!
My truck is a 2005 so mine when in about 2.5" from the right side connection; I've heard some years are a bit different but with intercooler pipe clear you can spend 10 a experiment with how your should go in.
I ended up running my line through the AC pipe because it seemed better to go with a gentle arch around rather than shorter and risk a kink.

Oh and I did have sand in the bottom of pan!!! Very tiny clear sand. Only 8-10 specs but what a shock! And at only 55,000 so happy that I put the filter in.

Questions for the old pros: is it really necessary to change the filter as the kits suggests?
First change 3months; second after 6 more months and then yearly?
I'm Scottish so what about 6 months then every year???
Seems that the filter should hold a fair bit.
I know if it plugs it's no big deal so I may just test the 6 mo theory for the first change.

Good luck and take your time!

 

Thanks to all who have posted on this topic. My kit is in my entryway going to install this weekend. kinda glad I didnt have time last weekend several good pieces of information this week on the install.

 

I had difficulty with the stainless shutoff valves into the aluminum housing, could not stop them from leaking, figured I galled them. Got with Dieselsite and they graciously sent me one of their old style adapters. I got some new brass fittings and everything went together without leaks. Big thank you to Dieselsite for excellent customer service. Just let them know if you need any help, they are the best.

 

Use plumbers paste "pipe dope" to seal the threads. It works WAY better then Teflon Tape.

 

Add to this: keep the degas bottle cap on when cutting the heater hose, way less drainage. Also, someone on here unscrewed the oil fill tube, then recapped the hole with the oil fill tube cap, giving easy access to the heater hose.

 

Grab the inlet hose with your left hand and the degas hose with your right hand while the engine is running and up to temp. When the right hand feels cooler than the left, change the filter. It is plugged. My 1st filter plugged in approx. 300 miles and the 2nd in about 1,000 miles. This method is better in my opinion since every truck is diff.

 

Great idea if it's plugged it will be colder.
Just spoke with my Ford service manager about the cooling system and showed him the bypass filter. He thought it was pretty slick.
Of course they won't endorse the need 'on the record' but he did like it!