Turning the drums might work depending on how far "out" they are to start with if you use the right shoes.

New shoes do not make full contact with previously "turned" drums, not until enough lining has been worn away to do so. By then they might be glazed over to the point brake hold effectiveness has diminished again.

Turning the drums and installing metallic shoes should get the job done, if the drums have not previously been turned and only need a little touch to remove glazing.

However if the drums are out at or near the outer limit, been turned couple time already and or will be there once any and all deep groves have been removed the hold power will suffer.

Best option, replace the drums to insure full shoe contact and install metallic linings the truck will hold at the boat launch. Be sure and keep the shoes adjusted up, often one or both self adjusters fail to perform correctly. Couple minutes with a brake spoon once a month or so will ensure even wear and full braking force applied when needed.

Installing two secondary shoes on each side or installing them swapped positions primary for secondary, can/will tend to cause the brakes to grab drag and hang, you don't want that.

 

I don't think thats a very good idea , don't do it...Lew

 

Ok, makes sense, but as zxwut says I have seen a number of threads on here where a user complained that the rear brakes were sticking or causing other problems and the cause ended up being that the shoes were installed backwards. Swapped them around and the problem went away.

Interesting idea, but file this one under "don't try this at home".

 

Yeah there used to be a machine to re-arc the new shoes to match turned drums, but I bet you could not find one of those anymore, at least not in operation, maybe on eBay if you wanted to buy your own.

 

I'd like someone here to explain to me mechanically how this can happen. The shoes either fit inside the drum or they do not. Please explain how the drum knows which shoe is front or rear since it passes by both shoes every rotation. File this under "old wive's tale".

 

It seems like that's exactly what you're saying.

So again (and with all due respect) - if it doesn't make a difference, why does every manual say the larger shoe must go in the rear?

I have *seen* threads on here where someone installed the shoes backwards and complained of sticking or dragging rear brakes. Do you think I'm making that up?

 

Not a "old wive's tale", its a known condition caused by installing the shoes wrong, as stated its happen to a few posters here.

I know what you're saying, both "fit" in the drum physically the same other then lining length, diameter is the same both shoes. Heck the metal shoes are exactly the same however it does make a difference, causes the shoes to drag hang and get hot in the process.

I know of others over the years never been here on this forum suffered the same not knowing the shoes where different.

Shoes installed both secondary on one side, both primary on the other side for example both adjusted the same, the side running both secondary's will tend to hang drag and get hot. The other side will be fine.
Same if the secondary is installed in the primary position, it will tend to drag and get hot.

Swapping all the shoes to the proper positions corrects the problem.

Heck I've done the same thing myself once or twice over the years not really paying attention, not thinking about it and had to redo my work a minute after a short test drive. Test drive shows the brakes getting a little to warm, pull the drum back off to find sure enough I didn't install the shoes right.

I think it happens often to most guys simply because of the way the new shoes are packaged in the box, probalby me too. They take the top two shoes out, put them on the first side, go to the other side with whats left in it. The shoes are usually put in the box in pairs primary's and secondary's, not together in "sets" primary and secondary for each side.

 

I buy all my parts from NAPA, so after I have the drums turned or replaced if they're out of spec, would you recommend:

Rear Tru-stop shoes @ $18.29 Each

Rear Safety-stop shoes, price not printed

Rear Ultra Premium shoes @ $37.99 each, or

Or Rear Severe Duty Ultra Premium shoes @ $62.99 each?

http://www.napaonline.com/Search/Res...+50028+2028020

 

The disk brake itself doesn't come with bronco's, it's that the flange on the rear of a bronco transfer case allows you to bolt a brake disk behind it cause it's stationary. Whereas the trucks TCs had a slip yoke so you can't do it on them.

The thing is you just need a flange to bolt the disk behind and somewhere to mount the caliper to. With your 2wd, I'm pretty sure you don't have a flange at the back of your tranny, should be a yoke right?

Tom Wood's Custom Drive Shafts - Tom Woods Custom Drive Shafts Custom Driveshafts Specialist Here's a link to a universal kit, Personally I think it's a lil over priced. The disk ain't anything but 1/4 steel with some cuts in it.

I guess Technically you could probably figure out a way to mount one to the flange on your rear diff......but NOT advised with ground clearance n' all.

 

Did you buy that kit or is it homemade? It's a pretty slick setup no matter what. Where is the actuator?

 

Neither for me YET. I plan on doing it. Got the idea from a guy over on sbftech who just put a 418w stroker in his tacoma, that's where the pic in my first post came from. I think he custom fab'd up his own.

Started doing some research for a stationary flange for a BW1356, turns out Bronco's came standard with one. All you have to do is swap out the TC shafts and tailhousing, or just swap the whole TC which is probably what I'll do after rebuilding it. And then get a 2 piece slip driveshaft.

I'm a lil slow today, actuator? You referring to the lever to engage it? I reckon you would just make your own or simply mount your original e-brake cables up to pull the lever on the rear of the caliper.

Another sweet thing about it besides the awesome braking power, is that when you go to do a rear drum-to-disk brake swap your options open up since you don't have to worry about running e-brake back there. And while you still have your drums, that disk brake also works better when wet or muddy unlike drums.

 

Because putting the long shoe on the back improves braking performance going forward, which is what you would typically want. But he is trying to improve braking performance going backward. I am not sure I understand why this is so hard to get across. He has a special situation he is trying to adapt his truck to. I never said there were not consequences in other areas, in fact I pointed out what those might be.

 

I still think you should review the threads where people have installed them improperly and had them dragging all the time. You may change your mind on this idea.

 

I am fine with it as long as someone can explain to me MECHANICALLY how this can happen so I can learn something. Telling me "it just does" doesn't really do it for me.

I have not personally ever gotten these backwards because I have been doing brakes since disc brakes were something we only saw on exotic Italian cars. But I have pulled down customer cars where the old shoes were on backwards and the owner never knew about it, the only negative to come out of it was shorter service life since the short shoe was doing all the work. Many cars with front drums had both shoes the same length back in the day.

Now, if you put the auto adjuster on backwards, then that *would* cause the condition you are talking about.

So, I am not saying what you are telling me is not true, I just want to understand how it can happen, because I have played the scenario out in my head over and over, and I don't see it.

 

im with you on this one too...

http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/brake03.pdf