As the post says, I keep breaking the sheetmetal nuts. I do put some PB's on them before I try to remove but they are just too weak to not break. Does anyone have any tips on how to get them off that does not require two people or a torch.

 

Let the PB sit longer, and if they break, ya need to replace them anyway. Not much else I can say than that will help, these trucks are pushing 50 years old, bolts will be rusted and stuck.

 

I plan on replacing them but once they break it takes me a long time to get one bolt out since most of these sheet metal nuts, or as some say "speed nuts" are in hard to reach places. Its just about impossible to get them out by myself in a decent amount of time. Just hoping someone has some tricks to get em out.

 

This is an age old issue ive learned many tricks too on all except one location...
The nutclips or cagenuts depending on the location both typically break free from the clip or cage...unless you get really lucky. Wire brush the heck out of them first...use so PB Blaster to then flush whatever loose crud there may still be on the threads. On the lower grille to valance or valance to core support fasteners I would use a slimmer jaw type of vise grips. The grille used nut clips so those nuts are square...break them loose of the clip then put a 1/2" open end wrench on them...pay close attention to where it wedges as ideally you wanna wedge it to the core support vs the grille as you may damage the grille(dents) if its steel and will positively dent it if its aluminum.
The ones that hold the valance to the core support are the worst IMO as the area where the nutclip goes is so slim. Dont try to remove those until the grille is out...then you can lift the valance slightly and wedge or jamb a 6 point socket or vise grips on it. If the core support is not to be reused, bend that lip down...the areas where the beefy frame mount area is doubled wont bend...its too beefy.
The worst is the 2 behind the headlight trim rings ...somet9imes there is bolts, more often though its a #3 Phillips screw head with a nutclip on the other side...the bracket its on is part of the fender. 1/2" open end wrench will get in there easily enough...if you have a screw head type ...try it and see if it goes..if so, great..if not...drill the head off.
The rest of the fasteners are mostly plain nuts with flat washers...the fender to fender apron and core support are this type of setup.

Let the PB Blaster soak a day or two...wire brush some, blast again, let soak and flush more away and blast it and let it soak a day or so and then try to remove it...PB pulls itself into the areas to break up the grip...kinda like eating the rust IMO.
Also, sometimes you get REALLY lucky and get a trucks thats been undercoated...or has lots of tire/rubber chunks around the areas...chip it away thoroughly and then go at it...

Its a pain, but can be done but you gotta pack patience and more patience...6 point socket is a must...have a spare as different mfrs tools will fit looser or tighter on fasteners then the next...it makes a HUGE difference...

Even after doing all of this sometimes you do break bolts...just watch yourself and look to see where your fingers may end up if it does break..to reposition or such before reefing on it...a cheater bar is a great thing to have as well...



- cs65

 

I havnt broken a bolt yet... knock on wood, but those sheet metal nuts keep breaking off. I have had some luck with prying on the bolt away from the body, bringing the nut tight on the body, kinda keeping it from spinning but its alot of patience and finesse. Not my strong suits.

 

I hear ya on the patience and such...Its something with any kind of old car or trucks either you learn to acquire or you will get many a busted knuckle or mashed finger/s...Dont try using air tools either on any of them...a sure fire way to make a mess. wedging the nut into the hole of the area can work for a little bit...until you can get a socket or wrench on it...getting a better bite on it and then proceeding...the bolts between the upper valance and the fender are a real bear to reach up to as they are angled at weird angles...those 2 require ALOT of patience...the diagonally placed one between the fender and the lower valance are also kind of tricky...same reason but lower and easier to see and reach. Keep in mind Im talking as to the degree of difficulty when you are working alone. The rear front fender bolts are also difficult as both nuts are totally inacessible if they break...go slow and steady with them...If you need pics of how certain areas on the front sheetmetal is as to fitment, etc...holler as Ive got a full nose here apart and can take pics showing how the parts are set up.


- cs65