When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I took the exhaust manifold off on the driver side to drill and tap it for a pyrometer. After I reassembled everything, I had an exhaust leak between the manifold and the y-pipe. I have tried everything I could think of to fix it including taking the y-pipe off the turbo and passenger side to get the best possible alignment on the driver side. I tried polishing out the flange on the manifold with a wire wheel then put a thin coat of grease on both sides to ensure a smooth union. I pushed my luck too far and over tightened the bolts and bent the collar on the y-pipe. I now have fixed / replaced the y-pipe and do not want to over tighten it again. I tried to make a thin gasket out of some exhaust material I found at NAPA but still cannot get it right. Is there a gasket designed to fit? What am I doing wrong? I know many would say just leave it…. It only sounds like a hiss and is certainly not noticeable in the cab, but I want to get it right.
You can't leave it. Having an exhaust leak there is DANGEROUS not to mention driving the EBP sensor crazy and losing turbo drive pressure. I've never had a problem with the manifolds sealing. I usually tell people to loosen the y-pipe AT the manifolds to help realign the pipe at the turbo. Are you absolutely positively sure it's leaking at that part of the manifold and not at the head OR that the manifold isn't cracked? Those joints are usually very forgiving. You can get some high temperature exhaust pipe sealer that is like JB weld since that joint doesn't flex, but it would be as an extreme last resort for me.
I do not want to leave it. I also do not want to use a sealing compound in the fear that some may break off and make its way up to the turbo. As I sit here thinking about it, I am wondering if the manifold is out of round now. I cannot imagine that happening though. I think my best fix would be a thin lead crush gasket. I do have a Dashdaq and the Back pressure does not seem to be out to lunch but then again I really could not say what it should be under any given load / situation.
My thought would be put some type of marking material (sharpie marker, paint pen, or maybe even good old fashioned carbon paper between the two, and torque it down. Then pull it back off, and look for the low or high spot that is keeping you from sealing. May be from over torque on the first clamp that something bent just a little on the y-pipe.
Sorry your having this problem but just curious why you pulled the manifold, drilled mine on the truck just was very careful to not leave any metal inside the manifold.
You didn't pull the passenger side pipe off the EGR cooler by chance? I wouldn't think so considering you only pulled the manifold. Sometimes you have to disconnect the turbo, EGR cooler, and the passenger side pipe where it splits, then realign it all. Tighten the pipe to manifold and EGR cooler to pipe. Then install the Y-pipe loosely on the passenger side pipe with the bolts and gasket just installed, not tightened. Then install turbo and mount/tighten all V-band marmon clamps. Then lastly, tighten the passenger side pipe to the Y-pipe.
This might not be your case, but if so, that how I have been able to get misaligned exhaust back into place.
Like everyone else said, the pipe should just mate up with little attention paid to orientation because of the "ball" style of joint it is. Unless something is cracked or bent. Then replace it.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.