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I have always camped in my cherokee. My wife and I enjoyed the tent and tarp style of camping. Recently we have been camping in more remote mountian areas and I purchased my F250, 1990, 460 standard cab long box. It holds the camper nicely.
Getting to the point....It leans to the left. Loaded or unloaded. I have compared it to other 250's and found that I have 3 leafs in each front pack and cannot find another 250 like it, they all seem to have 2 leaves.
My question is where can I get some replacement leaf springs. What era trucks are compatable? I would like to replace both the front and back sets to make sure I eliminate that from "something that could cause the lean" list.
Any other "lean" solutions would be great as I hope to get this solved before the maiden voyage.
Don't waste your time with old used springs, they are already sagged from years of load on em. Go to your local "truck" spring shop and by new springs if you want to replace them all.
Also check for a cracked single leaf front or rear very near the u bolts, may be hard to see without looking close.
If so probably all you'd need is that one leaf replaced, same source applies. Cheaper better product and will make up the u-bolts needed right on the spot. Do not reuse u-bolts regardless what you decide to do spring wise new or used, u-bolts are one time use only.
If that truck doesn't have them already add front and rear sway bars to it, while that camper is a small lite one it will make a world of difference cornering with it loaded.
Don't waste your time with old used springs, they are already sagged from years of load on em. Go to your local "truck" spring shop and by new springs if you want to replace them all.
Also check for a cracked single leaf front or rear very near the u bolts, may be hard to see without looking close.
If so probably all you'd need is that one leaf replaced, same source applies. Cheaper better product and will make up the u-bolts needed right on the spot. Do not reuse u-bolts regardless what you decide to do spring wise new or used, u-bolts are one time use only.
If that truck doesn't have them already add front and rear sway bars to it, while that camper is a small lite one it will make a world of difference cornering with it loaded.
Pay attention here!!! Even with that small lite camper. You would be surprised how much it will raise your center of gravity... It will make a world of difference in handling, and reduce the "pucker factor" by at least 50%
i was in the same boat. I had a 3 spring pack in the front of my old diesel. (I thought I was the only one) my springs were shot, i replaced them, they asked for my spring code from the door, i gave it to them, what i got was a new 2 spring pack
they worked ok but by the time i retired the old girl they were starting to sag again. maybe...~3-4 years after that.
dont rule out that it could be one of your body mounts sagging rather than your springs.
I will check for the cracked spring front/back. Wouldnt a body mount problem show in the lines of the truck? Like from cab to box? Style lines would be outta line I would think...I could be wrong here.
Also I have a new set of axles waiting for me. A 1992 sterling and a HP60 with 4.10's from an f350 truck. There is a swaybar on the rear axle and two leaves on the front 60. This is a winter project.
I know that LMC sells replacement leaves but I live in Canada and those nice shiney white rims you see on the truck were REALLY expensive from LMC. I cant imagine what a full set of leaves would be...At least I know there were made in the USA and not China/Korea/India/Tiawan etc.
Any suggestions for purchasing lift springs? Arched the normal way? For the front and back? I acutally dont want to lift the truck too much more but getting rid of the inverted springs would be sweet i think.
yeah you'd probably see a mount in the body lines.
I live in canada too. ANy spring shop should be able to help you. New springs c/w bushings and u bolts was <$250 when i did mine about 4 or so years ago.
if you do lift the check out rocky mounain suspension.. they will point you to what you want.
I believe the 250 trucks use the negative arc springs and the 350 use the positive arch. I also believe they're interchangeable. Sometimes people add a leaf to the front packs when they start sagging. That might be where your 3rd leaf came from. You could also order springs, including lift springs from broncograveyard. Again shipping might be an issue. I'm a Canuck as well so I hear you about shipping, but I'm close to the border so I get things shipped to a shipping house across the line and drive over. Works great for those places that offer free shipping in the US.
I believe the 250 trucks use the negative arc springs and the 350 use the positive arch. I also believe they're interchangeable. Sometimes people add a leaf to the front packs when they start sagging. That might be where your 3rd leaf came from. You could also order springs, including lift springs from broncograveyard. Again shipping might be an issue. I'm a Canuck as well so I hear you about shipping, but I'm close to the border so I get things shipped to a shipping house across the line and drive over. Works great for those places that offer free shipping in the US.
Where in Alta are you?
Im in Lethbridge. I wish I could cross the border. Long ******* story.
So if I get some positive arched springs will they work with the TTB d44 and with my D60 when I swap? Anyone done this? I really dont want to but springs just to have to buy different springs when I do the axle swap. What kinda measurements are springs related to. I dont want too much lift but dont know how "measure" "rate" a spring?
So if I get some positive arched springs will they work with the TTB d44
No not unless you dropped the TTB pivot points, otherwise you'll never set the camber right. It would be positive to the max.
I'd wait until the axle swap and then install the positive arch springs at that time, I wouldn't do anything to it until then. So what if it leans a little until then. I would go as far as adding sway bars if needed, you'll be able to retain them after the axle swap without much rework if any. Longer pins perhaps or shim/block frame mount brackets down a little.
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