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Old Jun 4, 2010 | 11:25 PM
  #1  
FossenRacing's Avatar
FossenRacing
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From: Alberta, Canada
one step forward three back.

Im just pissed right now.
It seams every time i touch a fe engine something goes wrong on it.
Some of you are sick of hearing about the first 390 i built and it got fried by a ****ty fuel pump ( lesson learned was run electric fuel pump).
And now i have another 390 i am rebuilding for a 79 f250 4x4 mud truck.
I just found a rear sump pan and pickup and 20 minutes ago i was installing it along with a new melling oilpump.
when putting on the pickup the flange for the oilpump shattered and i had barely 5 lbs of torque on it. Now imagine if it hadn't broke now but had at the mudboggs while screaming at 6000 rpm.
The motor trans and all other related parts are sitting in the shop while the trucks on the pad outside.
I wish my town had a 24 hour parts store. cause i am kind of fubared.
as the races are 2 weeks away and i work everday in between.
I work service rigs. up at 5am and home 10 or 11 pm. Have no time for enough sleep let alone wrenching. I might be pulling a couple crappy overnighters.
 
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Old Jun 5, 2010 | 12:35 AM
  #2  
Riderman's Avatar
Riderman
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[QUOTE=FossenRacing;
I just found a rear sump pan and pickup and 20 minutes ago i was installing it along with a new melling oilpump.
when putting on the pickup the flange for the oilpump shattered and i had barely 5 lbs of torque on it..[/QUOTE]

Please dont take offence with this question. I'm not there and cant see what's going on, but I've built many engines and a few FE's. Those cast iron oil pumps are hard to break unless they are on a bind while bolting up. I assume you were bolting the stamped metal pickup tube flange to the Cast Iron oil pump, and the flange of the oil pump cracked/broke? Or did this happen while bolting the pump to the block, with the pick up tube installed?
 
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Old Jun 5, 2010 | 06:16 AM
  #3  
NumberDummy's Avatar
NumberDummy
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From: Simi Valley, CA
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Originally Posted by FossenRacing
I just found a rear sump pan and pickup and 20 minutes ago i was installing it along with a new melling oilpump.

When putting on the pickup the flange for the oilpump shattered and i had barely 5 lbs of torque on it.
When installing a reverse sump pan's pickup tube, you also need the following, which takes the place of one main bearing cap bolt.

D6TZ6345A (replaced C6TZ6345A) .. Stud-Crankshaft Main Bearing Cap / 1/2" -13 -3/8" -16 x 4.41" / Use on #3 cap, right side only / Obsolete

Applications: 1966 F100 352 4WD / 1967 F100/250 352 4WD / 1968/76 F100/250 360/390 4WD // 1975/91 Econoline 351W.
 
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Old Jun 10, 2010 | 11:15 AM
  #4  
FossenRacing's Avatar
FossenRacing
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From: Alberta, Canada
Originally Posted by NumberDummy
When installing a reverse sump pan's pickup tube, you also need the following, which takes the place of one main bearing cap bolt.

D6TZ6345A (replaced C6TZ6345A) .. Stud-Crankshaft Main Bearing Cap / 1/2" -13 -3/8" -16 x 4.41" / Use on #3 cap, right side only / Obsolete

Applications: 1966 F100 352 4WD / 1967 F100/250 352 4WD / 1968/76 F100/250 360/390 4WD // 1975/91 Econoline 351W.
Yah when removing the pan and pickup i also took the stud bolt.
had to buy a new oilpump cause my parts supplier is an ******* when it comes to returns. Had some mechanic look at it and he said a ****ty casting. same as what i thought.
And installed the motor. Its tight. there is barely any room in everyway.
Trans is close to firewall, headers are close to frame. valvecover is close to brake booster. but at least there is lots of room between the oilpan and diff.
 
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