When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I sanded the passenger side fender on Sunday. Man is my back sore! Anyway, the front half of the fender was covered in body filler up 1/2 inch thick. It was applied in layers as was evident from the different colors of "skin" from the cured filler. The P.O. had tried to pull the dents out but only succeeded in pulling the srew out and making the holes bigger.
Anyway, I started banging the fender with my $12 body set. 4 different dollies and three hammers. I was pretty impressed with the results. Other than a few wrinkles I couldn't remove because I don't have the proper tools, I believe this fender won't need much more than a thin guide coat of filler to smooth it out. I did weld up the holes and repair a couple of cracks.
I wanted to take pictures of the steps as I did them but I couldn't figure how to demonstrate the technique while snapping pics.
I don't have either on but I am going to get them.
I set up the digicam in the garage yesterday. I plan on filming the hammering session this afternoon. When I get a chance to, I plan on adding this to my homepage with the video online. But it may take awhile.
That's basicly what I have except my hammers are wooden handled and I don't thing my dollies are that well shaped. But I only paid like 10 bucks at a Homier tool show that travels around. I never figured I would be using them so much.
Get close and personal with your sheet metal using the hammer and dolly technique, I love it!! I spoke with a business body shop manager the other day about this topic. He said there is no money in the repair of sheet metal. I thought he was kinding and he proved his point by showing me the math. It seems that having a journeyman tied up hammering on sheet metal is a waste of money. The shop makes more money when the worker replaces the panel with a new one. I guess this is okay for the consumer but it will jack up insurance costs no doubt. I must say though there is nothing like the relaxing beat of a hammer slapin on steel. I've found that even when using a shrinking hammer you will need to do facilitate hammer work using an oxy and acet torch. And everyone thought they should throw that thing out!! Torch shrinking is very simple to learn and will remove stretched metal providing you have the technique down and right tip on the torch.
While I will agree that shops won't make money repairing the panels, your average homeowner will save tons of money hammering the panels. To replace a steel fender on a 61-66 F100, your looking an the neighborhood of $500 per. But with a couple of hours af hammering, a little body filler for smoothing and I just saved $480 bucks.
The body shops are into volume work and your right, they don't want to take the time to help out a true auto entusianst. They want to waste time repairing an SUV that will be traded in in less than 3 years. I asked one shop how much to paint my 63 Pontiac, he said, "I'd never do it, it would take too long". Guess he wont get my business.
I started the drivers side fender Saturday afternoon. I didn't set up the cacorder since the wife didn't want dust and dirt inside it. But i did take time to snap a few pictures, but didn't actually show and hammering in the process. I'm pretty pleased with the results so far. Pictures are available in the gallery already. Let me know what you think. Take look here!
I still have to repair the large section over the wheel opening and the lower end under the filler (any bets as to whether it's a dent or rust?) I'll get a few more pics later on as I.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.