1983 - 2012 Ranger & B-Series All Ford Ranger and Mazda B-Series models

Bad wheel bearing?

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  #16  
Old 07-05-2010, 09:25 AM
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worked great!

I ordered the hub ($125 from O'Reilly), followed those instructions and was driving in no time. Those pictures really helped me, and it didn't have all the extra information from the manuals to confuse the issue.
 
  #17  
Old 06-11-2012, 08:06 AM
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Originally Posted by photocliff
Just replaced them on my 96 4x4. I was road testing it in less than an hour.
All for about 25. small ones {:=)~
Would this process be the same for a '96 2WD? Dealer told me bearings on both front wheels need to be repacked. Never been done to my knowledge at 109k mi. I've seen instructions for several other model years, would it be the same for 96? What i saw from the shop manual in this post for the '99 model seems to be very involved. But others indicate its nothing to it. Rather than repack should I just replace w/new? Thanks for any feedback.
 
  #18  
Old 06-11-2012, 04:13 PM
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Two wheel drives are completely different. The wheel bearings are serviceable. You can clean the old grease out and repack them. You can buy new ones if you want but they don't come prepacked, you will still have to pack them.
 
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Old 06-12-2012, 06:20 PM
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Dan thanks. Do you know if there is a DIY on the repack procedure? I've never pulled the bearing, hub, etc on this truck. Thanks.
 
  #20  
Old 06-13-2012, 05:47 AM
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The outer bearing will fall out in your hands when you remove the retaining nut under the dust cap. The inner bearing will fall out when you remove the grease seal. You will have to purchase a tub of quality wheel bearing grease. If you reuse your bearings, it is very important to get ALL of the old grease out as sometimes the new and old grease doesn't mix and can cause bearing failure. I thoroughly wash them with parts cleaner and blow them dry with compressed air then after they are all clean, I wash them again in gasoline. There are several different methods for packing the new grease in. Just make sure to force the grease in on one side until it comes out the other all the way around the bearing. I usually put everything back together and tighten the retaining nut quite snug to ensure that the bearings are in place, then back it off just to the point that there is no play. You can almost do it with your fingers but not quite and top it all off by using a brand new cotter pin.
 
  #21  
Old 06-13-2012, 09:15 AM
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Very helpful thanks. Do you replace the grease seal w/a new one? Also, I've never replaced rotors, is now the time to do that also? I'm thinking I will do new rotors pads while its all apart. Do you have any specific recommendations on the grease type? Do you buy a kit that comes w/ cotter pin, seal, etc or do you just buy these all individually? I'm going to search Advance Autos website to see what I can find. Sorry for all the questions. I appreciate your time on the DIY steps.
 
  #22  
Old 06-14-2012, 04:00 AM
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Some people re-use the seals (if you can get them out without damaging them). I never do, new ones are well under $10.00 each. The rotors on your 2wd will be much more expensive but you are right, you will be holding them in your hands so now would be the time to replace them. Most any quality wheel bearing grease would do the job, just go to your local auto parts store, they can help you. To my knowledge there is no kit, you buy everything separately. I have an assortment of various size cotter pins. If your bearings are not pitted, you can clean them up and re-use them. You might want to seek some help adjusting them, its critical to get it right.
 
  #23  
Old 06-16-2012, 07:23 AM
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Awesome, thanks for all the feedback.
 
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