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If you have fuel and it still wont start and spins as fast as yours, you either have a massive compression problem or glow plugs are not getting enough power, or they are dead. what brand gps are in there?
They are all Motorcraft ZD-9
Originally Posted by starmilt
If it cranks on a half a turn with either in the morning and keeps running, I would not think you have an air problem. If you are getting white smoke soon after hitting the starter, that pretty much eliminates air intrusion as the problem.
I'm leaning towards the gp's not getting hot enough or possible low compression.
When it's cold it will have to turn a few times even with ether. Maybe 10 sec? And I really hope it's not compression because i really do not want to tear this motor out to rebuild...
Originally Posted by FORDF250HDXLT
try and get up a little earlier? all you need is like 5 extra mins.
see,the reason you want to check it in the morning is for air intrusion.
after sitting all night,the fuel has time to drain back to the tank.if you look at it after you have the truck running,its going to be full because your pump has been filling it see?
was;
".8 ohms or less each." when cold? and how much "less" were the others?
when you push your manual button,did you test each GP line to see if all where getting power?
I don't drive this truck everyday (i wish i did), so if anything i would be giving it even more time to drain down. I've got to pull a fuel line to get some o-rings so i'll see if i can get it off.
All 8 are getting battery V. I think 6 were .8 ohms and two were .6 or .7 ohms. Tested when it was between 50* and 60*.
This may be a little late to be asking, but since the water/fuel sep has been x'ed out, could all of my troubles be caused by water in the fuel? How can i rule this out without draining the fuel tank?
I've got less then 50 miles on a new fuel filter, but i'll buy a combination filter/separator it someone gives me a number that will fit the filter head...
I would be curious to know how much voltage drop you get when you turn the glow plugs on.
My original glow plug relay just died last winter.
Yes it still clicked, and it did send power to the glow plugs.
But I had to watch my volt meter, if the relay clicked and the volt meter did not drop about 2 volts, I knew the glow plugs were not heating.
So I delayed fixing it, just hit the manual switch a couple times till the volt meter droped, then a 10 second glow and I was running.
When I finally changed it I threw the old one on the shelf in the garage.
Unknown to me, my son saw the old relay on the shelf and used it on his motorcycle as a starter relay.
He swore the starter was going bad.
Yes the relay clicked, and it showed power on the starter side of the relay.
But the engine would not crank.
Tonight I got a new relay and put on his bike, cranked so fast it was not funny.
So moral of the story, even though the relay clicks and you see power on the glow plug side of the relay, you may not be getting enough amps through the relay to get the glow plugs hot.
moral of the story: stop hanging onto parts you know are no good. hahaha.
sorry Dave.my old man is the same way.i ask him;if you know it was no good,then why did you save it instead of throwing it out...... you knew you'd never use it again?
i never do get a straight answer.lol
Actually Dave, i went that round once, and the solenoid is new. I only have the stock gauges, but the needle visibly drops and the dome light dims when i hit the switch.
I decided to remove all of my glow plugs and test them individually, out of the engine.
Guess what i found! 1 with .2 ohms and 7 with infinite ohms resistance... So as soon as my wife gets back with the card i'll get 7 new GPs. Unfortunatley, one of those 7 was a new one...
what festus means is your rather expensive glow plugs will live longer if they have the proper controller, cause you're thumb on the switch don't know when to stop as well as the controller does with everything working right
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