Hi guys I wanted to branch off my old thread that I had about this since it kind of went a few directions and I would like to save all IP timing info in one thread, I cannot wait anymore, the smell is killing me its like breathing in 500 IDI's exhaust in the morning especially if the stench gets caught in the cab, anyway I am an extreme eager beaver and do not want to wait until next weekend I would like to try it after work by the end of this week, I have done much reading from oilburner.com and this website, I'm very confused on where the bolts are? and do I loosen them or fully remove? I know not to remove that black timing covering in front of the IP or else I will be in trouble, also I would like to throw out symptoms again just to make sure whether I have to retard it or advance it, Blue/gray smoke on startup and at engine operating temperature, EXTREME RICH smell of diesel from exhaust, poor fuel mileage, when romp on gas pedal it poofs out the gray/blue smoke, have only driven 200 miles since oil change but no sign of oil consumption, whether I have to advance or retard it I am only going to move it as small as possible as I'm afraid of going overboard then being worse off, sorry for the long winded post and repetitive one but if anybody wants to give any info at all it will help alot, also I know I need to bend some wrenches what size wrench and what length?

 

Ok, the drive gear cover is attached to the top of the engine block with 4 bolts that point strait down - don't touch those.

The injector pump is attached to the rear of the cover with a set of 3 bolt stems that are threaded into the gear cover. The injector pump then has a 3 bolt flange on the front that is attached to those 3 bolt stems. The pump is clamped in place with nuts that thread onto those stems.

You do not have to remove any of those nuts, just back them off until they are loose and you can now rotate the pump along its axis (horizontal, along the centerline of the truck). The retaining nuts are in a 120 degree offset pattern with one being right on to and the other to at bottom, opposite corners. I can reach all of them using a regular 12pt box end wrench but some guys have a hard time using a regular off the shelf wrench, maybe theirs are beefier or something and can't quite fit. You might have to grind yours down and bend it a little to get enough clearance and sweep.

 

The truck im working on is doing the exact same thing. This truck wont rev above 2900 then it starts sputtering and billowing fuel smoke. White and grey. I backed the fuel screw out two flats and it didnt help so i backed it out two more flats. It wouldnt start unless you held the acc pedal to the floor and then it wouldnt rev above 1500. So i turned it back up 4 flats and it ran the same. I turned it up another flat and it was pouring more smoke out. Timing marks on the pump and housing are aligned. Replaced fuel filter. Ran without air filter no change. I dunno whats up with it. I guess I will swap IP and injectors with the motor that i took out last week from it. I dont think its a timing issue. Sorry to hijack ur thread.

 

thanks david, do you think I should retard the timing?

 

This is what I have noticed from playing with the timing on my truck. If the truck smokes white/blue constantly at idle but mostly clears up when driving, then your timing is too retarded. If it idles clear but smokes white all the time while driving, then it is too advanced.

The IP bolts were a pain to reach on mine, but I did it with a ratchet, extension, u-joint and a crows foot.

 

Well if its off far enough in either direction, you will get similar results. I was never able to make blue fuel smoke unless mine was advanced too far so I would try slightly retarding it a little. As I mentioned on another thread, take careful not of where the timing alignment scribe marks are so you can go back to the original position in case this only makes things worse.

 

thanks for your input you two, I will take a picture of where the original marks are before I start my tinkering, which I still need to locate

 

I had just finished injection timing on mine. I called the local Ford dealership and spoke to a diesel advisor. He said that he goes 2x's width of timing lines on the Injection pump toward the passenger side to advance them, said it was 9 out of 10 times right when reading with meter.

 

Hey how long did it take you to time your truck? I'm planning on doing it possibly friday after I get out of work going to locate all the bolts I need to loosen tomorrow and possibly start fabbing the custom wrenches if need be

 

It doesn't take that long to time it. The passenger side bottom bolt is the hardest to get to but not too bad. After you have your tools out (19mm to move pump and a 9/16 or 14mm for 3 bolts. I would say 30 Minutes for first time.

 

oh thats not bad cool, also thats a cool looking bumper! I would like to get some huge pipe, bend it then weld up a custom front bumper but I have a snowplow

 

My 90 had this problem long before I found this forum. It was running good, then one day it started to smoke white and smelled of fuel. Thought it was injectors so changed them out with no improvement, so changed the ip and it was cured. After I found this forum I have often wondered if filling the fuel filter with diesel clean and tripple dosing the fuel tank, starting it and letting it run for a short time, then letting it sit over night would have cured this problem. It might be worth a try, and won't hurt anything. Plus the only cost would be the bottle of diesel clean.

 

tried this about two days ago with brand new wix filter but didnt help

 

Well I guess that answers that question. At the time someone said something about the advance piston sticking in th ip.

 

could my IP be shot at only 70,400 miles though?