PYROMETER INSTALL, BOOST INSTALL
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PYROMETER INSTALL, BOOST INSTALL
I'm a jet engine mechanic and I've read where some people put the thermocouple after the turbo and some put it on the drivers side flat part of the exhaust to get a more accurate reading.
IMO they're both good places to install just a matter of preference.
On jet engine though as to me the turbo is hence the intake and exhaust blades. The thermocouple is located after the turbine blades on jet engines. Yes our (jet) engines run quite a bit hotter depending on the throttle setting but has there been a time or anyone ever heard of a thermocouple breaking and damaging their turbo blades or engine.
I don't really know where to install the sensor for the boost either. I've seen where some install it right there after the intake boot right before the intake blades of the turbo.
Any help is greatly appreciated.
IMO they're both good places to install just a matter of preference.
On jet engine though as to me the turbo is hence the intake and exhaust blades. The thermocouple is located after the turbine blades on jet engines. Yes our (jet) engines run quite a bit hotter depending on the throttle setting but has there been a time or anyone ever heard of a thermocouple breaking and damaging their turbo blades or engine.
I don't really know where to install the sensor for the boost either. I've seen where some install it right there after the intake boot right before the intake blades of the turbo.
Any help is greatly appreciated.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Nov 2008
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From: Seattle
It is my understanding that pre turbo is best. Most indicative of actual cylinder exhaust gas temperatures. General consensus is putting the probe at the rear of the drivers exhaust manifold will be as close as you can get to an average reading from both banks. Obviously putting two probes, (one in each manifold), would be most accurate, but would be overkill. In fact I'm pretty sure I someone posted that they had done that, along with two separate gauges, and said the difference was so negligible, it wasn't worth it.
Posting Guru
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From: West Valley Utah
Every class 8 truck I've seen that has a pyrometer, has the thermocouple after the turbo. What I've never asked anywhere is if the gauge is reading actual egt's at the location or if it's calibrated to more closely show cylinder temps. I been told there's about 300 degrees difference between the locations.
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Every class 8 truck I've seen that has a pyrometer, has the thermocouple after the turbo. What I've never asked anywhere is if the gauge is reading actual egt's at the location or if it's calibrated to more closely show cylinder temps. I been told there's about 300 degrees difference between the locations.
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2007
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From: Texas
Gauges become important when we decide to modify engine programming and bypass some of the factory stock settings to get more power. I'm assuming the jet engines you work with are run according to factory specs and you're not sticking a bunch of aftermarket power adders on them?
In a stock setting, a pyro post turbo would be fine since the engine will not create damaging exhaust gas temps. When you add a chip / tuner and bypass the safe, more mild programming, you want to measure temperatures closer to the cylinders to get a better reading. The rear two cylinders take the most heat, so a probe near #7 or #8, or in the up pipes near the manifold, is considered the best place to read EGT's. Post turbo temps vary too much and too wildly from pre-turbo temps for any meaningful readings. Too many people have run both and tried to come up with "safe" post turbo readings.
Either side would work, but since the gauges typically go on the driver side, and the pass thru plugs are on the driver side, and it's a pretty easy spot to reach, the driver side manifold (or up pipe) is the popular place to stick the probe.
In a stock setting, a pyro post turbo would be fine since the engine will not create damaging exhaust gas temps. When you add a chip / tuner and bypass the safe, more mild programming, you want to measure temperatures closer to the cylinders to get a better reading. The rear two cylinders take the most heat, so a probe near #7 or #8, or in the up pipes near the manifold, is considered the best place to read EGT's. Post turbo temps vary too much and too wildly from pre-turbo temps for any meaningful readings. Too many people have run both and tried to come up with "safe" post turbo readings.
Either side would work, but since the gauges typically go on the driver side, and the pass thru plugs are on the driver side, and it's a pretty easy spot to reach, the driver side manifold (or up pipe) is the popular place to stick the probe.
Posting Guru
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From: West Valley Utah
Gauges become important when we decide to modify engine programming and bypass some of the factory stock settings to get more power.
In a stock setting, a pyro post turbo would be fine since the engine will not create damaging exhaust gas temps. When you add a chip / tuner and bypass the safe, more mild programming, you want to measure temperatures closer to the cylinders to get a better reading. The rear two cylinders take the most heat, so a probe near #7 or #8, or in the up pipes near the manifold, is considered the best place to read EGT's. Post turbo temps vary too much and too wildly from pre-turbo temps for any meaningful readings. Too many people have run both and tried to come up with "safe" post turbo readings.
In a stock setting, a pyro post turbo would be fine since the engine will not create damaging exhaust gas temps. When you add a chip / tuner and bypass the safe, more mild programming, you want to measure temperatures closer to the cylinders to get a better reading. The rear two cylinders take the most heat, so a probe near #7 or #8, or in the up pipes near the manifold, is considered the best place to read EGT's. Post turbo temps vary too much and too wildly from pre-turbo temps for any meaningful readings. Too many people have run both and tried to come up with "safe" post turbo readings.
Second, a stock diesel engine will definitely put out damaging heat. It just won't build the heat as quick as a turned up engine. Summer temps, a good load and hard pull will easily push egt's into the danger zone on a stock engine.
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Definately not running any mods on the jet engines they perform quite well without them. Carrying whatever they may need.
I do agree though gauges to me are important for the simple reason I like to see if I have good oil press, water temp etc.. vice dummy lights as I call them.
Plus though my truck is stock except for the mods mentioned I heard it wouldn't be bad for actual water temp, egt, boost for troubleshooting either.
The thing I wonder though is why do the big trucks measure egt in Celcius vice Farenheit. I'm guessing the egt gauges I see on e-bay that go to 1500 F is plenty for our trucks (gauge reading wise). Not into melting pistons like I read about with the 6.4.
I do agree though gauges to me are important for the simple reason I like to see if I have good oil press, water temp etc.. vice dummy lights as I call them.
Plus though my truck is stock except for the mods mentioned I heard it wouldn't be bad for actual water temp, egt, boost for troubleshooting either.
The thing I wonder though is why do the big trucks measure egt in Celcius vice Farenheit. I'm guessing the egt gauges I see on e-bay that go to 1500 F is plenty for our trucks (gauge reading wise). Not into melting pistons like I read about with the 6.4.
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Post Fiend
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From: Texas
I have to disagree. In my opinion, proper reading gauges are always important. Especially oil pressure and water temp. In a diesel I'll add a pyrometer. Amp, boost, oil temp, not so important but informative. Auto trans temp gauge, back to necessary.
Second, a stock diesel engine will definitely put out damaging heat. It just won't build the heat as quick as a turned up engine. Summer temps, a good load and hard pull will easily push egt's into the danger zone on a stock engine.
Second, a stock diesel engine will definitely put out damaging heat. It just won't build the heat as quick as a turned up engine. Summer temps, a good load and hard pull will easily push egt's into the danger zone on a stock engine.
The only stock trucks I've seen put out damaging heat are the ones with 4.88 rear ends, but perhaps you're right and there are more of them out there.
Definately not running any mods on the jet engines they perform quite well without them. Carrying whatever they may need.
I do agree though gauges to me are important for the simple reason I like to see if I have good oil press, water temp etc.. vice dummy lights as I call them.
Plus though my truck is stock except for the mods mentioned I heard it wouldn't be bad for actual water temp, egt, boost for troubleshooting either.
The thing I wonder though is why do the big trucks measure egt in Celcius vice Farenheit. I'm guessing the egt gauges I see on e-bay that go to 1500 F is plenty for our trucks (gauge reading wise). Not into melting pistons like I read about with the 6.4.
I do agree though gauges to me are important for the simple reason I like to see if I have good oil press, water temp etc.. vice dummy lights as I call them.
Plus though my truck is stock except for the mods mentioned I heard it wouldn't be bad for actual water temp, egt, boost for troubleshooting either.
The thing I wonder though is why do the big trucks measure egt in Celcius vice Farenheit. I'm guessing the egt gauges I see on e-bay that go to 1500 F is plenty for our trucks (gauge reading wise). Not into melting pistons like I read about with the 6.4.
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