When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
What can you max your boost out at? You should be able to get 20+ with the rpms high and the go pedal on the floor.
I agree that it almost sounds like you're not getting enough fuel. With a load on the truck and going down the road without enough fuel you won't produce enough exhaust to turn the turbine and create more boost and you truck will basically start defueling itself even though it doesn't want to.
After towing 100 miles today with the wastegate red tube disconnected I saw the boost PSI go way up. Boost rose consistently with additional go pedal on light grades and boost was SUSTAINED during climb. I saw between 8 and 12 PSI pulling up grades in 6th at around 65 MPH between 1800 and 2000 RPMs. Plenty of power. With the red tube connected the other day and towing up a light grade under the same scenario....4 PSI and no power. Just rising EGTs and no power increase.
This finding plus the fact I can move the wastegate rod and completely open it by hand without much effort with one hand while leaning over the engine says the canister spring is either way out of adjustment or broke. I am leaning toward possibly a broke canister spring from the heavy pressure I have been told is required to normally open it when on a bench. I will either adjust the rod as Dan mentioned or install a new fully adjustable controller such as the Diesel Site Turbo Master. I will report back when complete. I would like to hear if anyone has any experience or feedback with the fully adjustable wastegate controllers such as the Dieselsite Turbo Master or any of the other brand units. Thanks to everyone for their feedback and help. Special thanks to Dan for the time on the phone to discuss this information.
OK, well, thanks for the report, sounds like the source has been found. Keep that red tube unplugged and plug it with something so you don't get dirt or anything else in it or let boost out of it and replace the EBPV actuator if you'd like.
OK, well, thanks for the report, sounds like the source has been found. Keep that red tube unplugged and plug it with something so you don't get dirt or anything else in it or let boost out of it and replace the EBPV actuator if you'd like.
Will do. I have the tube plugged on to the end of a boot clamp at the moment. Thanks again.
You can look in one of my galleries and see a wastegate actuator completely disassembled. I am betting on a broken spring, or a snapped rod. The spring in the WG actuator is a 37# compression spring, meaning that it takes 37#s of force to completely compress the spring. the red line is a pressure line that will provide up to 7psi of air to force the diaphragm to help compress the WG actuator.
You can look in one of my galleries and see a wastegate actuator completely disassembled. I am betting on a broken spring, or a snapped rod. The spring in the WG actuator is a 37# compression spring, meaning that it takes 37#s of force to completely compress the spring. the red line is a pressure line that will provide up to 7psi of air to force the diaphragm to help compress the WG actuator.
I will check out the gallery. Yes, does sounds like the internal spring is broken. I had no frame of reference on how much tension it should be under. Mine has a resistance comparable to a little greater than a small block chevy carb throttle return spring. I didn't know this was off base until getting feeback from others that I must be a body builder if I could easily open and shut it completely with one hand. I can see how moving a rod against 37#'s takes a bit of strength to move with one hand. So, it is replacement time I believe. With an unplugged unit with a likely broken spring, no telling what boost limit is currently in place. I will watch the boost gauge when towing until I get it fixed, which will be very soon. My highest reading today was 12 PSI while towing so I bet the spring is letting off boost even with the red tube unplugged. Any opinion or feedback on the Dieselsite Turbo Master adjustable wastegate controller?
so when unplugging the red line do you have to stick something in it or the wastegate canister? or do you just leave it off and open?
Most just plug the redline by using the end of the intercooler boot clamp and leave the canister inlet port alone. Some will put a rubber vacuum cap over the canister port to keep dirt out. I finished removing my stock wastegate canister assembly yesterday and installing an adjustable Turbo Master. A couple observations: My OEM unit COULD NOT be adjusted further as the threads were locked or "staked". Using vise grips on the rod and female end would not turn and adjust the rod length but will only snap the rod (this happened to Mueckster when he tried to adjust his OEM unit). Other units seem to be adjustable without issue (as in KWIKKORDEAD's case). My OEM spring was so weak and/or rod length so out of adjustment that the rod end easily lifted straight up off the stud end without forward movement needed by hand or air compressor. So for me, adjusting my factory unit was not an option.
I am planning on reporting back to this thread next week with more performance status after driving some distance and adjusting the TM. I won't be driving the truck until this weekend and I will be towing my trailer. A quick 2 mile test drive on surface streets after TM install show a very different performing truck. What I did initially notice is that boost spools up smoothly and more in accordinance with amount of go pedal. Thanks to everyone for their input. Special thanks to SPDMPO-Keith, MUECKSTER-Nolan (thanks for the TM), and KWIKKORDEAD-Dan for their time on the phone and offers of replacement parts.
A non adjustable wastegate rod???
That's a surprise.
Looking forward to hearing your report.
Moveable at original factory adjustment but staked in position after original factory setting. I guess OEM didn't want some of us adjusting it after they did .
When I heard from others stating that theirs could not be adjusted but some could, I thought I would take the unit off the truck and put some real twisting force on it since I could only get so much leverage while still on the truck. Since other forum members had some WG controllers not being used they could ship me, I thought I would put enough force to it until on the verge of snapping. No turning possible.
Here were a couple others members that found the same situation with seized adjustment rods :
I do like your idea in that thread of rigging up a suitable tension and length spring as an option to keep OEM config. I will be towing my trailer up to Gold Bar Friday. Full TM report pending....