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Towing Overheat Question

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Old Sep 3, 2010 | 06:51 PM
  #61  
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Originally Posted by 69cj
We have started smog checks here. I am happy with a properly working stock truck.
I'm with you. Happy with things working properly, happy with a truck that a Ford tech will be able to diagnose, happy to not run a tuner, and happy to treat the next owner with respect.
 
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Old Sep 3, 2010 | 07:05 PM
  #62  
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Originally Posted by imaposer
I've heard mine kick on and go full tilt before, so I'll know it when I hear it.That was before I had the insight on it, so I don't know what temps it happened at. But, the dash gauge had already gone up and the check gauge light had come on. That was my first sign I had a problem with this truck. That was when I had the oil cooler replaced and egr deleted and added the insight. Since then, I can control it from ever raising the dash gauge by getting out of it when the insight starts to read over 230 on ect/eot. At about the same time, the fan comes on, but not up to full on roar. It is enough that the last time it happened, I was just getting off the highway and before I could get to the stoplight at the top of the ramp, the ect was all the way back down to 204. All of this has been this summer, always when the temp was over 90. I'll be curious to see how it does towing when the air temp comes down.
To me it sounds like you fan clutch is going out. I noticed on mine there is a lower speed on the fan that keeps temps down. With only 6k, you should never hear the full roar unless you are deep into a mountain pass.
 
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Old Sep 3, 2010 | 07:08 PM
  #63  
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Originally Posted by 2001400ex
To me it sounds like you fan clutch is going out. I noticed on mine there is a lower speed on the fan that keeps temps down. With only 6k, you should never hear the full roar unless you are deep into a mountain pass.
A disconnected egr valve can screw up your fan strategy. Ask Cheezit. He is the pro on this.
 
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Old Sep 3, 2010 | 11:13 PM
  #64  
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Originally Posted by 69cj
A disconnected egr valve can screw up your fan strategy. Ask Cheezit. He is the pro on this.

I thought that was on the 05 and up models only. Mine being an 04, I didn't think it would matter. I count on getting one stuck back in there anyway just to make sure.
 
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Old Sep 4, 2010 | 09:13 AM
  #65  
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Originally Posted by imaposer
I thought that was on the 05 and up models only. Mine being an 04, I didn't think it would matter. I count on getting one stuck back in there anyway just to make sure.
That's why I said to check with Cheezit. Maybe he will chime in. Don't forget this is a holiday weekend. Replies may be slow coming.
 
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Old Sep 5, 2010 | 06:36 PM
  #66  
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Originally Posted by 69cj
That's why I said to check with Cheezit. Maybe he will chime in. Don't forget this is a holiday weekend. Replies may be slow coming.
Yep. I'll bump this thread up a couple times after the holiday, and probably just start a new thread on Tuesday if I don't get any further information here. This seems to be the most active and helpful 6.0 forum I've been reading.
 
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Old Sep 5, 2010 | 06:49 PM
  #67  
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Originally Posted by imaposer
Yep. I'll bump this thread up a couple times after the holiday, and probably just start a new thread on Tuesday if I don't get any further information here. This seems to be the most active and helpful 6.0 forum I've been reading.
A no. of good techs and a lot of good guys with practical experience here that don't mind giving of their time. The only thing that will turn them off is negative comments with nothing to back them up. They love helping people when they can.
 
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Old Sep 5, 2010 | 08:00 PM
  #68  
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Originally Posted by imaposer
Yep. I'll bump this thread up a couple times after the holiday, and probably just start a new thread on Tuesday if I don't get any further information here. This seems to be the most active and helpful 6.0 forum I've been reading.
Yeah, the forum here is great!!!! They have helped me so much, and as a result my truck went from being abused by the previous owner to a truck that rips. Even little things like the knowledge to replace the degas cap are helpful.

Starting your own thread might be helpful, in that a lot of people might look at the beginning of this thread and not want to go through to read it. Then you can get the answer to your specific questions by other people who did not respond to this one.
 
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Old Sep 6, 2010 | 08:12 PM
  #69  
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Boy do I feel stupid. I came home today and hooked up the boat to do some testing/recording of exact numbers so I could put up a new thread with all the details of my problems. My buddy who turns the wrenches for me told me just for ****s and giggles, do it with the sct programmer set back to stock as well.
Well, setting it back to stock, other than feeling gutless, all my temperature problems went away! Fan starts to come on at 214, goes to high speed at 220, and never once did it get over 224 on ECT, and EOT never went above 222. Fan coming on at 214 is enough to get the temp to turn around and start coming back down unless I was trying to accelerate uphill over 65mph. It looks like I am going to leave it stock for now. It even seemed to start with less stiction and was happy to drive off much quicker, but did smell a lot worse of exhaust when warming up.
 
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Old Sep 6, 2010 | 09:00 PM
  #70  
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Originally Posted by imaposer
Boy do I feel stupid. I came home today and hooked up the boat to do some testing/recording of exact numbers so I could put up a new thread with all the details of my problems. My buddy who turns the wrenches for me told me just for ****s and giggles, do it with the sct programmer set back to stock as well.
Well, setting it back to stock, other than feeling gutless, all my temperature problems went away! Fan starts to come on at 214, goes to high speed at 220, and never once did it get over 224 on ECT, and EOT never went above 222. Fan coming on at 214 is enough to get the temp to turn around and start coming back down unless I was trying to accelerate uphill over 65mph. It looks like I am going to leave it stock for now. It even seemed to start with less stiction and was happy to drive off much quicker, but did smell a lot worse of exhaust when warming up.
Interesting, I tried that with mine and it had zero effect, only replacing the fan clutch did it work. I would still have it checked out, as it might be going out. When the fan clutch did come on, did it cool back down to 190 quickly? or stay around 210? I only ask because that was the first sign mine was going down was it did not cool nearly as much. So on mountain passes the fan clutch was on 70% of the time, where now it comes on and if it is a shorter pass, it only comes on once, instead of 5 times.
 
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Old Sep 7, 2010 | 08:35 AM
  #71  
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Originally Posted by 2001400ex
Interesting, I tried that with mine and it had zero effect, only replacing the fan clutch did it work. I would still have it checked out, as it might be going out. When the fan clutch did come on, did it cool back down to 190 quickly? or stay around 210? I only ask because that was the first sign mine was going down was it did not cool nearly as much. So on mountain passes the fan clutch was on 70% of the time, where now it comes on and if it is a shorter pass, it only comes on once, instead of 5 times.

It was only a quick test drive, and the hills aren't really enough of a sustained climb to really test it, most are under a mile long. But, it did seem as if 214 is where I heard the fan turn on/off and 218 is where I heard it go to another speed setting on/off. It would go past it, then turn around and once it dropped past it again, it would go back off, so no, I never saw my temps come all the way back down under 200 on any of the fan cycles. I would really need a scan tool that can monitor my fan demand and speeds for me to get actual data.
Do any of the tuners have the ability to alter fan settings with tunes?
 
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