For awhile now I've had water mixing with the oil, so shut it down awhile, and I changed the head & headgasket, figuring that was the cause of the issue. Changed the oil, and drove like normal. Everything was great until two days ago when I checked the oil and it was a little low, and the dipstick was covered in white milkshake looking goo again!

Truck has not overheated, thermostat works fine, and i've got good compression across all 6. Engine pulls 22 inches of vacuum at idle, and has a normal power level.

I can't for the life of me figure out just what in blue blazes is going on here, the only thing I can come back to is that I've got a hole in one of the cylinder walls, or some other major damage.

 

I'm the resident goon over here too so take what I offer w/a grain of salt:
Do U No any 1 w/a radiator pressure tester? U can replace the rad cap w/it and pump up the pressure in the collant system. If it drops - that shows a leak.

 

Mine is showing sighns of that to. I am havin trouble eith my 300 I 6 starting once runnin is fine I took all immisions and such off but the truck sat for 5 years I was woundering if I could put a manual choke on it and how to do so please help.

 

Hi Guy! n welcome to our place!
Lots of helpful knowledgeable folks here!
They have saved ME some money & headaches (unemployed and not a mechanic).

I'd B the last to know and some 1 more experienced will be along shortly but I believe you may not need a choke.
Were these problems B 4 or after the 5 yr. down time? B4 or after "I took all emissions and such off"?

 

After I am guessing I took all of emissions off and went as basic as I could on vacumm routing I may have a choke thermostat actin up and I need to put a timing light on it and some how check the vaccum advance

 

Like I said, some 1 will B along shortly. I'm all pre-emissions (see sig). I've seen that they have advised others on this often - don't pay attention as it does not apply 2 me.

 

One major contributor to emulsified oil (water and/or coolant mixed into a solution with oil) is an improperly functioning PCV (post crankcase ventilation) system. This vacuum/intake system removes the moisture buildup in the engine crank case during periods of cool down and warmup when moisture condensates in the crank case, as well as combustion gasses passing through the piston rings to the crank case during normal operation. The moisture will buildup over a surprisingly short period of time, as well as the milky oil that comes along with that.

On the back port of the valve cover is you PCV valve. Remove it from the valve cover with the engine running (but keep it connected to the hose to not create a vacuum leak) and see if there is a vacuum on it. It should pull your finger up and seal it off quite easily. If not, check for blockage in the hose, disconnected hose, or blockage in the carburetor or intake manifold port for the PCV hose. There is another hose on the front of the valve cover that goes to the intake after the filter, before the throttle valve. This allows clean air to be pulled into the crankcase. If this is clogged or not functional, it will also cause no crank case ventilation, thus, moisture ridden oil.

If you do have a PCV system problem and get it repaired, but you want the milky oil out of the engine you can do two things: Run it till it gets hot, change it, and it should go away quite fast. Or run it for a while until the moisture evaporates from the oil. It's a good idea to change it at a earlier time if it gets milky as the oil tends to break down faster when moisture is introduced with it.

You should pressure test your cooling system for sure to find out if there is a leak-down if your PCV system seems to be up to par. Perform it cold so you don't get temperature fluctuations increasing or decreasing your pressure reading. If you do have coolant in the oil making this problem, one thing you can check is for a definite sign in the oil by cracking the oil drain plug. Coolant, heavier than oil, sinks to the bottom of the pan. You can crack it or briefly remove the drain plug and see if you have coolant out FIRST. If not, pressure testing is a good next step.

 

pressure test your cooling system for sure to find out if there is a leak-down if your PCV system seems to be up to par. Perform it cold

Don't run the engine 1st. But follow The Man's (adam's) directions FIRST.

Thanks for the well stated, easy to follow directions (we could add ACE [ie ASE] to ur name).