Engine build questions (351w)
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Engine build questions (351w)
I am looking to do a basic build on a 351w to put into my 78 f150. I was trying to decide between a 351w or a 400 talked about in another thread (https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...-or-400-a.html), but I have pretty much decided to keep a smallblock in the truck instead of switching everything over.
So now I am looking for some opinions on how to build the motor. I am trying to build on a major budget and dont want to spend money on any parts I dont need. I am looking for a tourqey motor that still retains decent fuel mileage (12-15mpg). Hoping to get 300hp and 400tq at the flywheel, however I dont know how realistic this goal is, I would even be happy with 250hp/325tq. Going to be backed with a np435 and 4wd.
Again, would like to keep it under or as close to $1000 as possible, including machine work. So what year engine block should I be looking for and other upgrades?
All help is appreciated. Thanks
So now I am looking for some opinions on how to build the motor. I am trying to build on a major budget and dont want to spend money on any parts I dont need. I am looking for a tourqey motor that still retains decent fuel mileage (12-15mpg). Hoping to get 300hp and 400tq at the flywheel, however I dont know how realistic this goal is, I would even be happy with 250hp/325tq. Going to be backed with a np435 and 4wd.
Again, would like to keep it under or as close to $1000 as possible, including machine work. So what year engine block should I be looking for and other upgrades?
All help is appreciated. Thanks
FTE Legend
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From: Ottawa, Ontario
All the usual stuff will do it, a stock spec bottom end with GT40 heads and some porting if you can manage it, Comp 35-234-3 cam, 4bbl intake and carb, longtubes and whatever exhaust you like. That's about 300 HP and 380TQ at the flywheel.
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Forgot to mention that I will be using a 600cfm Holley dp if that makes any difference. I also plan on the basic upgrades such as 4barrel intake and headers. Would any stock heads besides the gt40s support my goals?
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From: Calhoun GA
I've seen quite a few deals on used aluminum heads over the past couple of years; Trick Flow, AFR and Edlebrock to name a few. Unless you already have a set of GT-40's, or can find them dirt cheap, I would suggest looking around for a deal on a set of aluminum heads first before bolting on those, or other factory heads.
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I've seen quite a few deals on used aluminum heads over the past couple of years; Trick Flow, AFR and Edlebrock to name a few. Unless you already have a set of GT-40's, or can find them dirt cheap, I would suggest looking around for a deal on a set of aluminum heads first before bolting on those, or other factory heads.
I'm looking for a strong offroad truck motor more than a racing application motor that is more well suited for street/strip.
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That's a great price on those heads if they are all assembled and ready to go. Aftermarket aluminum heads start at about $1k a pair new so they're quite a bit more money but they offer quite a bit more performance too.
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I know that there are roller and non-roller blocks, and know the basic differences. But does one offer a distinct advantage over the other in the range of my power goals? I hope to do some looking for a block soon and want to know if it's worth the trouble trying to only find a roller block.
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Post Fiend
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From: Charles Town, W bygod Va
THat's what I paid for my gt40's, might be the same guy out of Florida I believe. I'm not sure how much better a roller motor would be but if you need to buy one anyway the roller would be the way to go... probably no difference in price on used ones.
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FTE Legend
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From: Ottawa, Ontario
There is no difference in strength or power potential with a roller block over a non roller block, there is a wider selection of off-the-shelf roller cams available and the stock ford roller assembly(spider, dogbones, lifters) from a 5.0 can be utilized with 5.8 specific pushrods. However roller cams are quite a bit more $$ than flat tappets and given similar grinds both will make about the same power, but flat tappets require a break-in and zink additives in the oil while the roller doesn't need either and will reduce parasitic friction inside the motor quite a bit, so you have to weight the benefits of each type. IMO if you can find a roller motor(F4TE or later) grab it but if not don't loose too much sleep over it, if you still want to use a roller cam in an older block you just have to buy some linkbar roller lifters.