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Flooring Suggestions....
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Postmaster
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 4,004
Likes: 1
From: North of Boston MA
I stopped by Lumber Liquidators yesterday and picked up a couple samples - one of them is probably a perfect match but will take it over to Mom's and see which one.
One is priced $1.69 psf and has the padding on it. The other is $1.19 psf but has no padding. Padding, coincidentally, is $0.50 a square foot. Both are stock items at least. I believe both are U.S. made. They both look like they will match the height of the existing floor.
Now I have to decide if I want to pull the existing baseboard off the wall (I think it is glued on since I see NO sign of nails) or install a quarter-round at the base of the baseboard. For $0.89 plf I am thinking of just installing the quarter-round and avoiding all the work of pulling baseboard off - especially since I already painted. Thoughts?
One is priced $1.69 psf and has the padding on it. The other is $1.19 psf but has no padding. Padding, coincidentally, is $0.50 a square foot. Both are stock items at least. I believe both are U.S. made. They both look like they will match the height of the existing floor.
Now I have to decide if I want to pull the existing baseboard off the wall (I think it is glued on since I see NO sign of nails) or install a quarter-round at the base of the baseboard. For $0.89 plf I am thinking of just installing the quarter-round and avoiding all the work of pulling baseboard off - especially since I already painted. Thoughts?
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Postmaster
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 4,004
Likes: 1
From: North of Boston MA
You are right - the quarter-round would look better painted than natural look. And I definitely like the idea of not pulling all the baseboard off. I am going to paint it BEFORE I put the floor down. Dad won't notice (he is legally blind) but I know that if I don't paint it, either my mother or one of my crazy sisters will notice it and I'll never hear the end of it.....
Postmaster
Joined: Jul 2008
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I've put down the laminate myself and have been real happy with it. Using in now in a few rental homes because it's easier to clean than carpet.
It's a floating floor so you can put it down directly over concrete slab. Just make sure to use the poly. Some of the pads they make today have both in them but make sure you use a moisture barrier. I'd pull up the molding, install the floor, and go back withshoe moulding around the exterior. I've used some of the prepainted composite stuff and it goes real fast.
Good luck with your project.
It's a floating floor so you can put it down directly over concrete slab. Just make sure to use the poly. Some of the pads they make today have both in them but make sure you use a moisture barrier. I'd pull up the molding, install the floor, and go back withshoe moulding around the exterior. I've used some of the prepainted composite stuff and it goes real fast.
Good luck with your project.
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Postmaster
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 4,004
Likes: 1
From: North of Boston MA
Looked around some more and found an almost perfect match at the Deepo. It's a buck more per square foot but looks a bit nicer AND is U.S. made. As long as Mom gives the go-ahead, I will probably start later in the week. I am kind of dreading this since I have to lug everything up to the seventh floor. Will probably get the folks a fine if I get caught bringing my table saw up in the elevator.
So, a couple last questions.
1. HD sells a padding that supposedly has the moisture barrier in it. Is that any good or should I just go with the separate poly? And what type of tape is "waterproof" to tape the poly at the seams? Also, do I just run it right to the base of the walls?
2. There are a few small holes (maybe 1" across, 1/4" deep) from where the carpet tack strip nails were removed. Should I fill these with floor leveler or will the laminate bridge these safely?
3. Tools? Here is the list of tools I am planning. Since Dad has no tools at all (I got them all, he's legally blind) and since I live 11 miles away, I'd like to bring everything I need. Please add to the list if there is anything I might need....
- Table saw
- Jig saw
- Chop saw
- Speed square
- Tape and laser measure
- Utility knife
- Hammer
- String and chalk-line (for layout)
- Safety glasses
- Ice chest loaded with cheap beer
Any other suggestions?
Thanks
So, a couple last questions.
1. HD sells a padding that supposedly has the moisture barrier in it. Is that any good or should I just go with the separate poly? And what type of tape is "waterproof" to tape the poly at the seams? Also, do I just run it right to the base of the walls?
2. There are a few small holes (maybe 1" across, 1/4" deep) from where the carpet tack strip nails were removed. Should I fill these with floor leveler or will the laminate bridge these safely?
3. Tools? Here is the list of tools I am planning. Since Dad has no tools at all (I got them all, he's legally blind) and since I live 11 miles away, I'd like to bring everything I need. Please add to the list if there is anything I might need....
- Table saw
- Jig saw
- Chop saw
- Speed square
- Tape and laser measure
- Utility knife
- Hammer
- String and chalk-line (for layout)
- Safety glasses
- Ice chest loaded with cheap beer
Any other suggestions?
Thanks
Posting Guru
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 2,238
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From: Kiefer, Northeastern Okla
The "built in" barrier is fine, no poly required. Just run it up to the walls. Don't worry about the nicks in the concrete from the tack strips.
BEFORE you unload all these boxes, have all your pad laid, they just get in the way. Take a few boxes, unload them, give them a quick once-over, and temporarily loosely lay a few boxes' worth (maybe 1/4 of the room) in the direction you think want it, up against one wall, step back, make a decision, pop a "control" line and rock on. If you've got any help at all, a big help is just having someone un-boxing and laying the stuff out in front of you (besides fetchin' beers
) Just pay attention to your staggers. You'll be surprised how fast it goes once you get in a rhythm.
#1- Don't stress- it ain't rocket science.
#2- Don't drink too many beers.
Pete
BEFORE you unload all these boxes, have all your pad laid, they just get in the way. Take a few boxes, unload them, give them a quick once-over, and temporarily loosely lay a few boxes' worth (maybe 1/4 of the room) in the direction you think want it, up against one wall, step back, make a decision, pop a "control" line and rock on. If you've got any help at all, a big help is just having someone un-boxing and laying the stuff out in front of you (besides fetchin' beers
) Just pay attention to your staggers. You'll be surprised how fast it goes once you get in a rhythm. #1- Don't stress- it ain't rocket science.
#2- Don't drink too many beers.
Pete
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Postmaster
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 4,004
Likes: 1
From: North of Boston MA
Just kidding on the beer thing. I work nights so if I drink it would have to be at six in the morning. Besides, I never mix power tools with alcohol. Fireworks and alcohol, sure. Not power tools.
Thank you, by the way.
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 13,011
Likes: 742
From: Here in No. Calif
Ray, to be honest,chalk box is pretty worthless with what you are doing. I would start along the longest wall and go from there. After you have 3 rows laid together the floor go back and drop in your spacers for expansion. The floor as you know floats so it straightens itself out, make sense? I also do all my cuts with a table saw rather than a chop saw because the blade lasts alot longer. The all-in-one pad has a row of tape built in that you pull tab/paper off and exposes sticky stripe which you adhere to previous laid piece of pad. Have fun and no cervezas until finished
